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Fenny_Compton

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    Male
  • Location
    London

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  • Boat Name
    Sundial
  • Boat Location
    London

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  1. Cheers all for your help on this. I’ve since bought a new gauge and sender from a known manufacturer and they have worked a treat! Wouldn’t have known the size or regional matching was a thing without this education. Many thanks for all the wisdom!
  2. Thanks @Jen-in-Wellies, that's the problem with the current gauge, I can't seem to find out whether it's US or Euro so best to get a new sender and gauge I figure. Thanks also for the NPT/NPTF clarification. I'll likely go for a single 1/8 NPTF sender with accompanying gauge both working in matching regions.
  3. @Tony Brooks Please feel free to take a look here and give me your best guess because it just says 'Universal' on the advert and I have no paper work to tell me otherwise. So I'm looking to get a new sender and gauge so I know they match. But ASAP-Supplies seem to only do NPTF senders and I'm told here that I need NPT. So will have to look elsewhere I guess!
  4. Thanks for the help everyone. I do have a gauge and a warning light, would any dual sender like this work both or would I need something explicitly for a warning light and gauge? I’m not massively fussed about the warning light as long as I have a working gauge. In terms of the ‘NPT’ is ‘NPTF’ the same thing? That’s all I can see ASAP-Supplies do in a 1/8 size. I was looking at this specifically just for the single gauge route. thanks all!
  5. hmm yes I see. Well mine looks identical to this one on Amazon front and back, and that says it's 'universal' so is it better to get a new gauge and send to be sure? Cheers
  6. UPDATE! Soooo when putting the sender back in it suddenly became all too easy to screw in... and seems to have sheared off. I'm always extra careful not to over tighten so perhaps this is the reason why it wasn't working in the first place? (I'd like to tell myself that at least) So I guess the solution is much simpler now, get a new one! Is it worth me just getting a one spade sender now rather than a 2? And can anyone recommend any decent brands for quality sender parts? Thank you all!
  7. Thanks everyone, here are my findings so far: 1. All wires are correct, i.e pos, neg and sender from gauge. 2. Touched temp gauge sender female spade to engine block and it went to full deflection, so I know that's working. 3. Made sure I have a negative connected to the engine block and then touched that neg to the gauge sender wire and again full deflection so I know they're both working! 4. Next I connected them up to the sender unit and made a link across the two spades with a spanner which caused full deflection. 5. Swapped them over to see if they would or wouldn't work the other way around but they still made full deflection so didn't really answer that question of which spade is which. 6. Lastly, I unscrewed the sender unit (photographed below if you're interested) and held the end in some boiling water whilst being fully wired up, nothing from the gauge!! 7. Swapped the spades around, re boiled the water and tried it again, NOTHING from the gauge!! Does this confirm that the sender is funked? Or perhaps that it just isn't compatible with this gauge? As mentioned in an earlier post when I hooked it up to an ohms meter after running the engine I got readings which would suggest it worked. The plot thickens! Thanks for your help all.
  8. Already gone with the old engine 🤦‍♂️
  9. Hello all, I've recently installed a fairly new Lister LPW3 replacing an old one of the same model that was beyond repair. I've come to link up the Temp gauge and found that I have two spades on the temp sender, to be honest I can't recall whether my last one had two or not, but I've tried every combination I can conceive to try and get the Temp gauge to show something but no, nothing. Now, my temp gauge was on the boat when I bought it and a quick Google has lead me to find an identical looking one here on Amazon, which leads me to believe it's a cheap pile of sh*te. But that gives you an idea for the wiring, one pos, one neg and one single sender cable. Also worth noting it seemed to work fine on my previous engine. I've tried the sender cable on both spades of the sending unit and tried putting and earth cable on the opposing spade simultaneously, then tried a live lead from the ign. accessories and still nothing. I checked the sender unit by putting a multimeter on the spades set to ohms and found it does appear to be working (although I didn't test it methodically, I just noted it was reading something after being run for 15-20mins and the number slowly decreased as I continued trying different wiring combos, testing again after each combo failed to work). Is it likely that this sending unit just isn't compatible with this gauge? Am I missing some obvious wiring solution? (not an engineer myself if you haven't already guessed) Could I save myself time and chin scratching by buying a new gauge and sending unit that I know will work together? Any help would be grand! Many thanks. P.s I've already looked for some sign of a manufacturer on the sending unit and can't see anything but a long number that appears to be of no Google-able significance. That number is: 1VT1 7AB327F 15
  10. Thanks @David Mack if all else fails, I'll no doubt turn to this Flinstone's esque solution!
  11. Thank you all! That’s all very helpful indeed, and will put a more legitimate end to my current bodged solution. 🙌
  12. Unfortunately the diameter of the hole is too small for the standard brass fittings to fit, and also too deep to get the split pin through at the other end. Thanks for the suggestion @mrsmelly, I'll check that out.
  13. Hello all, I've recently installed an LPW3 which I bought second hand and have come to a head with the pull stop cable. In previous experience there is a brass piece with a grub screw in it that clamps the pull stop cable whilst being held on to the 'fuel cut off arm' with a smooth pivot and split pin. Alas, the hole where this usually goes has a thread in it and I for the life of me can't figure out what the part is that should go here to hold the pull stop cable and operate the mechanism. I've tried my usual chandlery's who all point towards the usual brass pivot with a grub screw which I know won't fit. Any ideas or insights would be welcomed and appreciated! Photo attached
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