Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Steve56

  1. Whilst some of the Beta engines have the solenoid with external linkages many of them have an almost identical looking one. I think that even if the engine has an internal type it will probably still have the external stop lever that can accept a cable. Then it would be a simple case of fitting a blanking plate in place of the solenoid. I think the engine will still have it's normal stop lever in place. I know with the Beta engine, when an internal solenoid is fitted there is still a stop lever.
  2. Personally I would not even bother with a stop solenoid. Just go for a cable stop. In fact when I bought my new Beta 75 I went into the factory to do a few mods to the engine. One of the mods was to remove the stop solenoid make up brackets to accept a stop cable. As someone said earlier, keep it simple.
  3. The canaline is based on a Kioti engine not an Isuzu engine. The Kioti engine is very similar to to a Kubota engine, in fact in the past they built Kubota engines under license until the went it alone.
  4. You could try ASAP supplies. They will sell anything you need on line. Also there site will have technical info on the requirements.
  5. On a ZF gearbox the line around the dipstick is the oil level. There is no maximum and minimum, just the set level. To check oil level you should just place the dipstick into the hole, but do not screw in. The oil should then be at the mark on the dipstick.
  6. If you decide to use the engine as a heat exchanger cooled unit it may be a good idea to improve the water injection exhaust outlet. Try to do away with the horrible 90 degree elbow and have a swept bend put in.
  7. I think what you can see under the heat exchanger is the back end of a PRM gearbox. Looks like the gearbox is just led there but not fitted onto engine.
  8. I did mention earlier in the post that all the impeller would have failed due to running dry and the vanes will need to be removed from the pipework Things just seem to get repeated, and we go around in circles.
  9. If you have run the engine and have not had water coming from the exhaust then the chances are the impeller has disintegrated. The will not last long running dry. Any blockage in the inlet can cause this. Also if the impeller has failed you should try and retrieve any broken vanes from the internal pipework as they can cause restricted flow.
  10. Borg Warner seemed to use both types of filler cap/dipstick. Some were screw in, some were push in with an expanding rubber to hold in place.
  11. Beta are a very helpful company. As well as all of there standard products they build a great deal of specials. Which is why I say there are so many options you could have. Just give them a bell and discuss.
  12. You could just ask Beta to fit the parts you want onto the Beta 43 engine. I'm sure they would be more than happy to do this.
  13. Steve56


    This is the way to go. Have a second external tank fitted to the opposite side. Then link both taks together and plumb to engine. This will not affect boat performance in any way.
  14. Not in Northwich, but Sleeman and Hawken down in Devon are the main Lister dealer. Always happy to post items out.
  15. It seems very odd that the book says do not move the upper nuts. It is the lower nuts that determine the alignment. In theory you could remove the top nuts, lift engine and then replace. As long as you dont move the lower nuts the alignment will remain the same.
  16. Whatever you do, don't use synthetic oil. Stick with mineral oil only. The API CC is readily available. When bleeding the filter loosen the bleed screws on the top of the filter and then use the manual lever on the fuel lift pump to fill the filter. Make sure all the air is out before tightening the bleed screws. Do not attempt to start the engine until all the air is removed.
  17. The problem is you never know what the engine mariniser fits. For safety reasons it should be energise to stop, but some of them stick with the industrial standard which is energise to run.
  18. Could it possibly be a fault with the stop solenoid. Maybe failed, burnt out causing smoke and engine to stop. Not sure which way the solenoid works on this engine, energised to run or energised to stop.
  19. No it is not normal. There is no gasket or anything like that but it looks like when the cowling was fitted the bottom edge has caught on the crankcase. Ideally it should be removed and correctly fitted so you dont lose too much of the cooling air through the gap.
  20. The black handle shown in the second picture looks like it is the sump pump to drain the oil from the engine. Just check a pipe comes from the bottom of pump and goes to the sump. In the first picture showing the dipstick it is showing way too much oil in the engine. There are 2 marks on th dipstick which relate to maximum and minimum levels. The number 8 on the dipstick is just the Lister identification mark. As far as the oil goes you should be using a low spec (API CC) mineral oil. The fuel filter has a bolt on the underside of the bowl which when unscrewed will allow the bowl to be removed and give access to filter element. The system will need bleeding. If you are lucky you will get away with just bleeding at the filter unit with the small bleed screws on the top. If unlucky you will also have to bleed at the fuel injection pumps.
  21. I think originally the engine would as standard have an alternator mounted onto the flywheel guard. With this in place there would not be a problem as the alternator would move to allow belt tension.
  22. The studs will be 3/8 UNC/UNF from memory
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.