Steve56

Which is what the op seemed to be suggesting when he said if he got the speed just right then there was an improvement. Although this is now irrelevant as it appears the mounts were at fault.

Maybe the engine idle speed has dropped off a little and the engine just needs speeding up a bit. This can happen over a period of time as things like the pump and governor speeder springs can stretch. Once the idle speed has dropped of just a little it can introduce vibration and rough running.

Yes it will. You will need to replace with a metal one, which should be readily available for not to much money.

You could use the CAV head as already suggested which is a filter and water trap. Or you could speak to Beta and buy one of there Wasp filters which has a course washable gauze filter and is also a water trap.

Unfortunately that's a different filter. I think that is the one fitted to the Mitsubishi range.

Looking at that now with a few more photos I will withdraw what I said earlier. I dont think it is a Racor filter. Also the quality does not look that good. I think I would go along with previous posters and remove and fit something more suitable with readily available parts. Call me cynical but Vetus do seem to sell various things that you cant cross reference, just to remove as much money as possible from the customer.

Yes it is quite normal to fit an agglomeration in line. In fact if you don't have one on a Beta engine and you have any fuel equipment issues you will not be covered by the warranty.

That looks like a Racor filter. Very good filters. Try ASAP supplies as they sell a lot of Racor elements. They may be able to match it up for you.

I am pretty certain that the timing marks are on the flywheel. Unfortunately on the majority of these engines there is no inspection hole in the gearbox adaptor so you would need to find an alternative way of determining the firing point. It may well be worth a phone call to Beta and see what they advise. Personally I would not try to time this pump using the spill method as this involves removing the delivery valve. I would use the bubble test method where a tool is fitted to the pump and you can see the fuel rise in the tube as the pump operates.

The other place could be the cap on the injector loose, or as I had on a boat the other day was the rubber plug that a lot of the injector caps had fitted. This should be a taper rubber plug but with age they harden off and leak.

You mention in the original post that diesel appears to be delivered 10 after TDC. For the engine to start and run correctly the fuel should be injecting before TDC.

Can't you swap the pipes on the engine rather than the calorifier.

That's exactly what should happen. The hot water comes from the thermostat housing, then returns to the pump

Normally a good reliable engine as long as it has been looked after. The only one thing that was a bit of a problem on some of the early engines is that they had twin alternators, but both were operated from a single belt. One belt would come from the crankshaft then around the water pump and then also both alternators. In my experience this was never very successful and would wear the belt quite quickly. The later models had two belts for the twin alternators.

Its the cover at the forward end of the engine. You will see the crankshaft pulley coming from the centre of it. This pulley will need to be removed first. It is held on with a left hand thread bolt.

As I have said previously, that's the way it comes out. But unfortunately you need to remove the timing end cover and remove the internal lever and springs, then it is clear to come out vertically from the top.

The loose bolt would make no difference to the water getting in. All that bolt does is hold the speed control lever in position. The spindle is held into the sleeve by the internal bolt.

That explains things a little more. I really think you'll be very lucky to get it moving successfully. It will probably need the parts replacing.

Looking back at the photos as Tracy D'arth says the engine does look particularly rusty. I also see that it is a heat exchanger cooled engine. Is it used in salt water conditions by any chance.

It is an unusual problem that I've never seen happen before. The only thing I can think of is that the o-ring, item 18 in the diagram has failed and allowed water to enter between the spindle and bush. Thats only a guess, but I can see no other reason.

If you look at the diagram I posted earlier in the post it looks as if spindle 58 has seized in bush 53. You may be lucky and free it off with soaking in WD40, bur I have my doubts. To be able to remove this spindle you would need to remove the timing end cover from the engine, and then remove items 19,20 & 54 from the underside of the spindle, then it should come out. Although if seized you will have a bit of a fight with it. Also when the end cover is removed you'll probably be working blind asI suspect you won't be too far from a bulkhead. I would respectfully suggest tat unless you are sure of what you are doing find an engineer to sort things out.

Yes thats the way to go.

A spring pin would be the best as long as the holes haven't worn to different sizes.

The pipe is the pump bypass. The water flows from the left hand side and then back into the thermostat housing on the right. This allows water circulation within the block before the thermostat opens. So the left hand side is the feed to the calorifier.

Sorry to disagree but the flow out of the engine is the left hand side, and return to the left ( thermostat housing )