Steve56
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Posts posted by Steve56
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On 11/06/2023 at 19:04, Farey said:
I'm not sure if it could be a factor, but last year I took the boat from Bristol to Sharpness, so it was in salt water for a while.
Whether it's had any bearing or not I wouldn't know. But what I do know as most of my boating is done in the Bristol channel is that you are running in almost liquefied mud most of the time. Hence if you looked at the water on yor trip you would have seen it was brown.
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The raised hand start doesn't need anything to stop it turning. I would suggest that the ratchet wheel bearing is a little tight. This could be down to wear. It could also be down to the old grease hardening and making it stiff. The best thing to do would be to remove the bearing and clean it out. If it appears to be in good condition repack with fresh clean grease. There should be a grease nipple for this purpose.
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https://youtu.be/Kvh5JIrvMDI. This you tube video shows a funeral on the G&S canal a few years back. Probably wouldn't do anything on this scale, but does show what can be done. I can't seem to give a link you can click on so will probably have to type it out.
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This is the type of hose I always use. In my opinion one of the best. Not the cheapest but will probably last the life of the boat. You say your hose goes to the bottom of the skin tank so that should be going to the suction side of the pump. You just need to be careful that whatever you use cannot collapse when warm. That's the main reason for not using some of this plastic type hose.
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1 minute ago, bizzard said:
The pump cover bolts should have copper washers on em or they will leak oil. As not all of them screw into blind holes but into the oil space.
Normally from new they would have been fitted with Dowty Seals.
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3 minutes ago, David Mutch said:
D'Oh! That makes a lot more sense! 🤭
It's obviously had some sort of sealant on it before. I didn't remove the pump to do the rear oil seal. I suspect the leak is just showing up now because the box finally has the right amount of oil in it!
What I can't work out is how I'm supposed to get a spanner/socket on the two recessed bolts (pic attached). What am I missing?
There should be enough clearance around the bolt heads to use a socket. Especially if you use a smaller 3/8 drive socket. On the lower bolt the coupling may get in the way. That's the reason the output coupling has cutouts on it. You may have to unbolt the R&D coupling and slide the shaft back to get some space.
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What you are showing there is the oil pump assembly. The repair kit you mention is just the gears and spindle for the pump. The pump and the plate you mentioned is just a machined plate with metal to metal sealing. From what I remember PRM don't use any sealant on these joints. Personally if I was rebuilding one I may be inclined to use a smear of Wellseal on the faces. Just as a matter of interest did you remove the oil pump assembly when you did the work. Some of the bolts that hold the pump assembly to the gearbox also hold the pump together. So quite important to torque these up evenly and to correct torque.
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Here's the relevant info from the Lister Manual
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5 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:
Thanks for the conformation. The only thing that just might explain no lift pump is the lack of an M in the engine designation so it might be an industrial engine that for some reason never had a lift pump, Probably unlikely so perhaps owner misunderstanding.
They were all built with lift pumps regardless of whether they were for marine or industrial use.
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4 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:
True, but the thread length is about the same as the distance between max and min, and the distance between min and the end of the stock is about the same. So if you do not screw it in the Min becomes the max and the end of the dipstick is the minimum mark.
I did also mention that in my comment.
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14 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:
I thought that range of Listers had a lift pump and would therefore have a manual priming lever for bleeding, although I think they are supposed to be self bleeding. But probably not if there is no lift pump.
To make things easier there is no reason not to fit an electric lift pump fed from the ignition switch between the water trap and engine filter.
That range of Lister Petter engines always came with a lift pump fitted. And yes they were all self bleed fuel system.
Just another thought. Is the tank breather clear as if not could possibly give you this problem.
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3 hours ago, PCSB said:
I've just completed the 500 hour service on our boat. It is fitted with a Canaline 42 and PRM 150 gearbox. The PRM manual says the gearbox takes 1.4 litres excluding any oil cooler. I'm not aware of an oil cooler on our engine so I'm assuming 1.4 litres will be ok - I used that amount at the 250 hour service and it has worked fine.
However I am having a tough time reading the dipstick, it is either stainless steel or chromed and I just cannot see the oil level against the dipstick - and yes I am wearing my glasses!
How do others manage?
TIA
Paul.
I would be pretty confident in saying your gearbox will have cooler. You should have a couple of hoses coming from the box, just follow and see where they go. It is a real pain trying to see the oil level on the new dipsticks. The older models used to have a blackened matt finish on the dipsticks but I suppose now it's all down to cost so a plain dipstick saves a few pence. As previously said just lay on some kitchen towel and you will see the level. Note the dipstick should be screwed in to test level. Normally I would just place it in position but just fill to minimum mark. You will be close enough.
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On 01/05/2023 at 17:09, Barneyp said:
And "the right boatyard" doesn't exist, there isn't a big enough market for a commercial boatyard to specialise in wooden boats, they all do steel boats.
There are boatyards about that are fully capable of working and repairing wooden boats as well as steel. RW Davis at Saul has done numerous wooden boats. Maybe because they are a good old fashioned boatbuilder doing commercial as well as pleasure work.
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6 hours ago, Roxylass said:
Did lister ever supply the air outlet ducting or just the oblong flange
Then you had to fit your own canvas or is it feasible to make a solid one
Engine in question SR2
Can confirm that Lister only supplied the flange that was fitted to the engine. The rest would be customer supply. Suppose it makes sense as there are so many variations of installation.
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On 26/04/2023 at 15:55, ditchcrawler said:
Are they not actually bolts? I looked at one at Braunston many years ago not fitted out
Yes they use cut off coach bolts on the cabin sides. These are then welded from inside.
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I would think its more to do with the fitment to the crank, rather than the number of teeth. But if Lister have given different numbers then there will definitely be a difference somewhere.
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36 minutes ago, blackrose said:
Ok thanks, but there is no 110a alternator?
Most probably the engine could come with either a 70amp or 110amp alternator dependent on customer order. Would expect 70 amp auxiliary would be standard with the option to upgrade to a 110 amp.
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It is possible to change the seal without stripping the box. But you will have to remove the box from the engine. Once the box is removed remove the 4 bolts on the oil seal carrier. Then remove the special nut from the opposite end of the output shaft. You can now support the gearbox on blocks with the output flange lower most. Using a brass drift you can now knock the shaft out. This allows the seal to be changed. Once done reassemble in reverse order.
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6 hours ago, ditchcrawler said:
How much more did the earn from all the extra water they sold?
That's what I would like to know. I was always led to believe that CRT were paid some large sums of money to supply the water to Bristol Water. As this is part of the problem surely that money should be put back into maintaining the canal. But I suppose at the end of the day they will still keep getting the money even if the canal is to shallow for navigation.
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On 14/04/2023 at 16:43, Tony Brooks said:
Almost certainly a GRP wedding cake on a river. Now you point out it is a five cylinder, the 71 or 72 gearbox model is far less certain. As the gearbox is the same colour as the engine, I think that the OP would get the exact model from Beta if he asks.
It is possible that the gearbox has done a lot more work than the engine. To the best of my knowledge Beta do not supply Borg Warner gearboxes. What does frequently happen is that a customer will supply there own gearbox and Beta will fit and paint the whole unit. So basically the customer will remove the gearbox from there old engine and deliver to Beta for fitment. As I say this is done because Beta don't supply this box, but many customers like and want to stick with there Borg Warner.
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6 hours ago, Maybach said:
Can anyone recommend a good book on the history of the Gloucester & Sharpness Canal? I've had a quick trawl through amazon and there looks to be a couple of books by Hugh Conway-Jones. I'm not sure which would be the best - or whether there's anything else?
Hugh Conway-Jones is a local historian in that neck of the woods. Any of his books are normally very informative, and full of good photos. Another name to look for is Chris Witts, a man who has spent most of his life involved with the local canal and river. I know he has an interesting website with a ,lot of good videos and other information, although not sure if he has published any books or not. It may also be worth looking on the Cotswold Canal Trust website. There visitor centre at Saul Junction normally stock a number of books covering the local waterways and surrounding areas.
7 hours ago, Maybach said:Can anyone recommend a good book on the history of the Gloucester & Sharpness Canal? I've had a quick trawl through amazon and there looks to be a couple of books by Hugh Conway-Jones. I'm not sure which would be the best - or whether there's anything else?
Another name that has just come to me is Paul Barnett. He has carried out extensive research and published a number of books on the Purton Hulks.
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40 minutes ago, reg said:
For a 57ft narrowboat at Brighton it would cost circa £7,500 if paid annually for a standard non live aboard berth. For a heavy usage add I believe 18% to that gives circa £8850 but even that is not a livea board deal and has restrictions on the number of weeks you can use it.
Add to that in a non sea going boat you have nowhere to go.
Not surprisingly its geared towards yachts.
I lived on Brighton Marine parade many years ago, love the town but there is no way I would live in the marina on a narrow boat even if I was allowed.
Yes quite agree it would be rather expensive for a narrowboat in a coastal marina as they are geared more for your normal 25 - 35 foot seagoing boat. Although the OP did mention a barge and if this was the case would probably only be charged on length. Unlike many inland waterway marina's where anything wider than a narrowboat pays double. Also agree a coastal marina is probably not the best place as your stuck with nowhere to go. I did mention earlier about the possibility of Portishead or even Cardiff Bay. At least from these marina's it is quite feasible to leave and get onto the network. I suppose it all depends on where the OP wants to be. I did get the impression that anywhere in the South be a possibility.
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10 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:
If sea based marinas are a possibility then there are more options, but I am no sure about the residential aspect in them. Brighton has a marina and Sovereign Harbor at Eastbourne. Loads around the Portsmouth/Southampton area.
I have seen a few wide beam boats moored in Portishead Marina and people live aboard, but unofficially. Even though it exits onto the Severn Estuary its a relatively easy job to go on up into Bristol and on to the canal network. Also over the years I have seen a few wide beam boats moored at some of the marinas and boat clubs within Cardiff Bay. Maybe some help to you.
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42 minutes ago, Stilllearning said:
Metalastic, stamped on the top of it.
Should also have a number stamped into the base which will tell you the hardness of the mount.
Here's the relevant info from the Lister Manual
lister overheating
in Boat Building & Maintenance
Posted
The thermostat could be called double acting. It has an extra plate on the bottom. The reason for this is that the Alpha engines had an internal bypass to allow coolant to flow around the block until the thermostat opens. This is to ensure you don't get localised hot spots within the block. As the thermostat opens this extra plate closes the bypass and allows coolant to be returned to the skin tank. The reason for not running without a thermostat is that the coolant can short circuit and cause an overheat situation. The coolant will take the path of least resistance.
You are correct. It is definitely the other way around.