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Posts posted by Steve56

  1. 21 hours ago, David Mack said:

    Not sure that is the case for the TS engines. I think the shaft in the engine just has a pin through it, and the appropriately handed starter dog is on the handle.



    That is correct. The handle shown is the correct one for the engine. As it operates on the camshaft, turning the handle anti clockwise will also turn the engine anti clockwise. When Lister give an engine rotation it is always as looking at flywheel from behind. Also the engine must be anticlockwise as To my knowledge the T range were never built as a clockwise rotation.

  2. 11 minutes ago, cuthound said:


    IIRC didn't Beta modify the Ford and John Deere engines to achieve a lower than standard tickover?


    What is the rev range for the original Ford engine?

    Beta certainly did a mod on the Ford engine. They altered the injector pressures to achieve a lower idle speed. I think the John Deere engine was left as standard. Not sure of the original idle speed of the Ford engine but would expect it to be around 800 rpm.

    • Greenie 1
  3. They were never the smoothest of engines. I've had experience of both the Lister and Beta versions. Both companies tried various things to try to improve the situation but never that successfully. Normally the best way of mounting was solidly on timber. Mount the engine to the timber, then the timber to the boat but do not use the same bolts. This was about the best way for a steel boat. Can't really comment on other materials. As you say I think the FSD is a much smoother engine.

  4. 5 hours ago, Timx said:

    Thanks temp seemed ok although dodgy meter, so a temp alarm within the control.?  Can’t understand if coolant levels are ok. Don’t know what to do.

    From memory I think that this engine has a temperature switch which operates the warning light and alarm. Then a separate sender for the guage. Both are by the thermostat housing. When the alarm goes off you could try pulling the wire off the switch to see if it stops. If it does you then have to decide if the engine is really overheating or if there is a fault with the switch or wiring.

    • Happy 1
  5. On 29/06/2022 at 23:35, commervan said:

    Hi please can anyone help. We have a paguro 4000 cocoond   built in generator in our narrowboat  which has developed another water leak this I have traced to the exhaust manifold area which has a water jacket  rapped around the manifold down pipe.


    This again has cracked on one of the joints and leaking antifreeze. 

    I keep getting it soldered up but the  vibrations  set it off again. I was wondering what purpose it serves and could I bypass it. Water comes in at the top and excites and the bottom so maybe I could just use a pipe to join them together. 

    The water comes from a skin tank which it shares with the main boat engine so is cooled that way. 

    It was mentioned  it could be an out let to heat water for the boat. 

    Please has anyone got any ideas. 


    The reason for the water jacket is probably to stop the engine overheating. As you say it is a cocooned set so you need to get that heat away. Without the water jacket that exhaust will give off a lot of heat. If you decide to bypass this water jacket then at a minimum you could lag the exhaust with a good few layers of lagging to try and keep the heat level down.

  6. 3 hours ago, Quattrodave said:

    Thank you, I've had a look and yes there does seem to be a bit of a trend!  This one has a temp guage the reads accurately, holding about 65 degrees all day long....


    Yes, I've seen this before.  Had the waterpump refurbished with new impeller, seals and bearings!

    Ooooh interesting! Where did you source the parts from?  Is there anyway of telling if I got a modified head gasket or not? Ah, so they ARE stretch bolts, I did suspect they were...!

    At the time I was working as a self employed marine engineer and covering warranty work for Isuzu Marine as well as a few other major engine companies. Isuzu Marine have now become Engines Plus. Therefore all parts would have been supplied by them, and all genuine Isuzu parts. I don't really know what the parts availability is, but if stuck you could call Engines Plus and they may be able to advise.

  7. On 19/06/2022 at 22:44, Mike Adams said:

    There are various threads on here about the Isuzu 55 engine and head gaskets blowing. It seems to only occur on engines that have skin tank cooling and not on those fitted with a marine mannicooler/heat exchanger. I suspect that your underlying problem is down to overheating of the engine. These engines are not normally fitted with a temperature gauge so your running temperature could be too high without the alarm going off. As you said there is poor circulation to the calorifier I would suspect overheating to be the cause due to poor or restricted circulation.. Possibly check the water circulation pump first as you are taking the head off anyway. It could be a build up of scale/rust in the engine and skin tank on its own or in combination with a blockage of the water passages in the block or head. Skin tanks performance degrades over time with internal corrosion and build up on the external surfaces. Wash out the skin tank and engine and add corrosion inhibitor/antifreeze  when you refill.

    air collecting in the head depending on the cooling arrangement could also be causing the issue.

    You are quite correct. The early Isuzu 55's did have an issue with head gaskets blowing. This was only an issue on the 55's and did not affect any of the other models. At the time the fix was to repair using a modified head gasket as supplied by Isuzu. I have done a number of these in the past and once fitted with a modified gasket there were no further problems. It was also recommended by Isuzu to replace the stretch head bolts at the same time.

  8. 14 hours ago, Norm55 said:

    My new boat has a canaline 38 engine.  In conversation with another owner i noticed the exhaust runs level, then down to exhaust manifold. Without a rise in pipe from the point it exits the hull, is there not a possibility water could run in and straight down into exhaust manifold, causing engine to hydraulic and seize ?  Surely it should have an intial rise to allow water to drain back out ? 

    Any thoughts please ? 

    Should definitely slope uphill or have a Swan neck. Over the years I have had a number of boats with wrecked engines due to water down the exhaust. Just poor workmanship by the builder/engine installer.

  9. 6 hours ago, ditchcrawler said:

    Could even be metric


    Definitely imperial as indicated with the shoulder at the top. Metric fittings have the shoulder at the bottom. On odd occasions some of the manufacturers nowadays don't seem to bother with this. The pipe in the photo is probably 5/16. Don't mix and match metric and imperial fittings, it's just a bodge and is asking for problems further down the line. I would say the problem you have is that the pipe coming from the tank has a tapered thread and your fitting has a parallel thread. Obviously been forced on and caused the split. As someone else has already mentioned you should really have a ball valve fitted in the return line.



  10. It sounds as if the oil is leaking along the output shaft and through the inside of the output coupling. Therefore not the output oil seal leaking. If I remember correcty when the output coupling is removed there is an o-ring on the shaft which stops the oil. Also when fitting the coupling it pays to put a little flange sealant on the flat washer that fits below the retaining nut. It may also pay to check that this coupling nut has not worked loose. I have come across this a number of times. It doesn't take much for an oil leak to start. If you take this apart it will pay to fit a replacement lock nut and ensure the correct torque setting.

  11. 17 hours ago, Rob-M said:

    Yes I have been to The Boat Inn by both car and boat.  According to Google it is currently closed, the last time we went there, pre-covid, it had new owners so I wonder if they have had to close down.

    Can confirm that when I passed by at the end of last year it was still closed. But apparently sometime in the near future the pub at Haw Bridge will reopen.

  12. 3 hours ago, MtB said:



    is that bilge pump drain pipe clipped onto a pair of solar panel cables? Even if not, that looks a disgracefully lazy installation.


    Shocking in fact! 



    It looks like a steel bar welded to the hull for clipping cables, pipes etc. A few boatbuilders do it this way.

    • Greenie 1
  13. 15 hours ago, Larkboy said:

    I would like to thank everyone for their input on this, much appreciated. although the shaft is scuffed it appears to have lost next to nothing in diameter so I think I will order a Centaflex coupling with its collet clamping system. Out of interest could I use an R & D bobbin to bolt onto the gearbox and then bolting the coupling to that which would allow me to cut 80mm from the end of the propshaft? I'm not sure of the loadings that might create on the gearbox output shaft.

    ASAP supplies sell R & D couplings to fit metric shafts.

    I may be stating something you are already aware of. The coupling in the photo is definitely metric. On the R&D coupling the line you can see machined around it indicates it is metric. An imperial coupling woud not have this.

    • Greenie 2
  14. Here is a write up on bore glazing if it is any interest. It is talking about generating sets but that makes little difference as it is the low load factor that seems tocause the problem.



  15. 2 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

    The big question may be ---- From Where?------

    I'm sure someone must have a second hand one about. In fact I think I remember one being kicked around for years in RW Davis boatyard. May have been scrapped by now. Its the sort of thing you find in boatyard scrap or come in handy piles. But agree it will be one of those things that when you want one it will be impossible to find.

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