katie_hannah
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Posts posted by katie_hannah
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We have moved onto our boat and things are going well. This morning when I turned the tap on the water pump came on (as usual) but when I turned it off it kept going but in pulses and won't stop. We turned the pump on and off again and looked at connections to the calorifier and we can't see anything out the ordinary. Any suggestions on what might be the problem?
Thanks in advance!
edit: it appears to have fixed itself and is no longer pulsing! Not sure what the issue was, any suggestions are welcome ?
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3 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:
Craft Insure do cover contents (at least they do on ours) and they cover Fire (at least they do on ours)
Our 'personal items' cover value is what we told them we needed.
It is understandable that they would want to have a professional value the boat as there are such huge differences of finish on a DIY boat. They have to ensure that you are not doing a 'fire insurance scam' claiming it is gold plated etc etc when it is just fitted out with a bit of plywood.
Due to the nature of the inland waterways you will find that many companies will apply some restrictions and requirements.
I have just had a renewal thru for my other boat and the letter explains the big changes in boat insurance in the last year with new limiyts being placed on insureres by Lloyds. This si the firat time in 200+ yeasr that Lloyds have had to issue instructions and requirements limiting insurance but they have been subject to huge losses from unsustainable business due to fraudulent claims and catastrophic storms.
Yiu could try www.traffords-insurance.co.uk
Thanks for your reply, I'll have another look at the small print for Craft Insure. I've been looking at so many policies I may have gotten a few mixed up ?
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I'm struggling to find a good insurance company.
I've looked at Craft Insure but they don't cover contents which we would like as we have technology that needs to be covered. We would also like to be covered for fire and other damage which they don't seem to cover.
I've looked at GJW but as we have self fitted out they want someone to come and value the boat which we want to avoid due to covid, expense, and time constraints.
Can anyone recommend a company that will cover contents and fire damage etc. ?
Thanks in advance ?
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Thanks everyone, lots of helpful info!
I was just curious to know whether my chosen placement was unnecessary, they're definitely visible and easy to grab. I was curious as to how others seem to get away with them hidden away.
In the bsc regulations it says to put them by fire exits but like some of you have suggested, it would make more sense for them to be away from the exits so we can make it to the exits in an emergency. I'll check with the examiner on Thursday.
Thanks again!
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I'm preparing for our BSC and am installing fire extinguishers and a blanket. I've read the guidelines and have installed them next to the exits and a fire blanket under the gunwhale in the galley.
They aren't particularly nice to look at, and when I look at pictures of boats I never see them installed. Am I going to far to install them in accessible places or do people hide them after the BSC is done?
If I can put them somewhere more discreet and still pass BSC that would be great!
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1 minute ago, Sea Dog said:
Oh dear, I'm sorry to hear that.
Moving our boat early in our ownership, across the country over a 2 month winter period whilst honing our timings to allow for imminent navigation closures and reopenings, was one of the best trips we've ever done. I felt I really got to know the boat and her systems during that voyage.
Maybe just move her to somewhere you can get her to her new home from? Or maybe just sail straight away and cruise her for the time you'd set aside for the delivery cruise? Whatever, I hope enjoy your new boat.
I had planned nearly everything out but missed the Nene closures, we were really looking forward to it!
Once we are past the closures we would only be a day away from the final mooring so we figured we'll move all the way then go for day or two out. We don't have our BSC just yet and that will be another week which doesn't leave enough time to make it through the closures.
Thank you, I appreciate you trying to help, we can't wait to be living on board after what feels like forever fitting out! ?
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Thank you everyone for your advice!
Unfortunately, 3 of the locks we will need to go through are closing on the 1st of November so we will have to hire a lorry to transport the boat, which is a shame, we were so excited to cruise this journey
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Hello,
We will soon be moving our boat from Ely, through the middle level to join the CRT canals at Northampton. We will only be on the rivers and middle level for between 1 week and 10 days.
We will be buying a CRT license as that is where we will be living. What other licenses do we need? I thought we would need one for the EA rivers but I've read about registering/licensing and I'm now confused!
Any help would be much appreciated, thanks in advance ?
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1 minute ago, Tony Brooks said:
To a degree the water tank is not relevant because sometimes its heated by the engine and in any case once it up to temperature it draws no more heat from the system until you run some hot water off. What it may do is prevent the rads getting to the maximum temperature as fast as they would with no hot water tank.
I thought that you had been advised at least twice now that you need to run those boilers hard so I think 5.24kW sounds fine.
By the way definitely NO thermostatic radiator valves.
Thank you for the advice!
I had been advised that but I wasn't sure if hard meant 6/7kw or just over 5kw, including or not including the water tank ?
2 minutes ago, Rob-M said:Will you want to be able to use the webasto to just generate hot water...? We have an isolation value to switch off the feed to the radiators leaving just the hot water and towel rail to heat up.
That would be handy during the summer, I'll have a look into that
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1 minute ago, Tony Brooks said:
always best to fit slight;y more rads than the boiler output with that type of diesel boiler.
I've been having a look and I'm thinking 2 large radiators, one medium, and towel one and it comes to 5,236 watts, I haven't taken into consideration the water tank. Do you think that sounds like a good amount for a 5Kw system? I'm completely new to this so any advice is much appreciated!
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1 hour ago, Sea Dog said:
You can estimate the size of your tank by filling a reasonably large vessel of a known size from your supply hose on max whilst timing it. Then, using the same water supply at the same max rate, time how long it takes to full your tank from empty. Now you have some schoolgirl maths to do...
Good idea, I'll do that!
1 hour ago, system 4-50 said:Use copper pipe as plastic expands too much, and I used flexible joints to the rads. (I used non-demountable Tectite (or is it Tektite?).
Thanks, I'll check that out
So I've been looking at radiators, I plan to have 3 plus a towel radiator and the total wattage comes to 5,564w. There will also be the water tank to add onto that.
Is that too much for the 5Kw system or will that be okay? Or I can do an alternative set up that amounts to about 4,500w plus the water tank?
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1 minute ago, Stilllearning said:
How many of you are there, and what will you be using hot water for?
Showers, washing up, washing machine. Probably other things that I, a typical bloke, haven’t even thought of.
Also, what size is your cold water tank? The bigger the better, our last but one boat had about 1000 litres, our last boat only about 250, and was a total pain.
There's 2 of us and it would be for showers and washing up, and maybe for the twin tub washer.
I'm not quite sure how big our water tank but its an integral tank, so maybe 500L?
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26 minutes ago, Sea Dog said:
Domestic are fine. If you have a 5kw Webasto, make sure you have enough radiator output to work it hard and it'll reward you by not coming up and failing early. There's more on that phenomenon on the site if you search for it, but I mention it here in your planning stage as it should help with your choice of sizes.
That's a great help, thank you!
24 minutes ago, Chagall said:Get 22mm pipe runs to the rads and not 15 ... lesson learnt.
....and if you get flat front panel radiators you can put a vinyl image on them instead of the awful expanse of white crinkly steel.
Noted! Thank you
5 minutes ago, Stilllearning said:As Sea Dog and Chagall have said, big bore piping and lots of rads, so the we anti doesn’t get just warmed up then switch off, that tends to kill them in depressingly short order. They need to be made to work, so lots of rads, don’t forget the bathroom towel rail, and a big hot water tank.
thank you! What counts as a big hot water tank, I'm looking at 55L and 75L?
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We are getting webasto central heating installed and we need to buy radiators, would these be special narrowboat radiators or can we get domestic ones?
Thanks in advance ?
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Thanks for your advice everyone! Do you think that a Victron Inverter Charger would be a good inverter to choose?
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We're looking at fridges and 12v ones are just so expensive so we're considering a 240v one. I've heard that new fridges are more energy efficient than old ones and can be run off batteries, I'm not sure how true this is.
We plan to be moored up with hookup 5 days a week and cruising at the weekends (so that we're not in the marina too many hours a week), what would you recommend? We haven't yet installed our inverter/battery setup so we can adjust this to what's needed.
Thanks in advance!
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Thank you everyone, I'll look into those things ?
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We have lifted the floor and found the underneath is quite rusty, we've wire brushed it and painted some areas with red oxide.
There's areas that are so rusty we're struggling to remove it (with a wire brush, drill attachment, scrapers), would it be worth putting a rust converter on before red oxide or should we just paint over the rust with red oxide?
Thanks in advance ?
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16 hours ago, Tracy D'arth said:
Its easy, scrape, shift any scaling rust to, clean metal, then get the tank really dry, stick a heater or an incandecent bulb in for a while and whilst it is still warm and free from condensation get a coat of water tank bitumen on. Don't miss anywhere! Avoid breathing in the tank, it will form condensation and the fumes are bad for the lungs.
You could Vactan it but I have never found it to be an advantage.
Its a warm weather job, cold causes condensation and will prevent the bitumen sticking properly.
Let it dry for a day or two and repeat with the warming and recoat till you have 3 full coats on, let it cure for at least a week and its done.
Proper tank bitumen is easily bought from paint suppliers, not B&Q or Wicks, theres' is likely to be water based these days and useless.
Do it all again in 10 to 15 years !!!
TD'
Thanks for the advice!
16 hours ago, blackrose said:It's not easy but you can make it slightly easier: Scrape any muck out and dry the area with old towels, use an angle grinder with wire wheels to scurf out the rust as doing it with hand held wire brushes is a waste of time. Doing it that way will either take you weeks to do properly, or you just won't do it properly. You must have good PPE when using an angle grinder in a confined space. Eye, protection, mask, ear defenders and leather gloves. You'll probably need a work lamp in there too. Avoid getting the cables anywhere near the wire wheel end of the grinder and if you need to change wheels then unplug the grinder first.
Dust and vacuum out all the debris, and then paint with your coating of choice. Personally after all that work I chose the best and longest lasting coating (which is a water portable epoxy) because I don't want to do it again anytime soon.
Edit: Vactan is a shortcut to getting rid of the rust by converting it, but from what I've seen and heard it means you'll be back down there within a couple of years doing it again. It's a water based product after all so you wouldn't expect it to last very long underwater.
Thanks, we'll suss out an angle grinder and the epoxy!
15 hours ago, Troyboy said:I can confidently state that cleaning the rust from the water tank on my boat was the worst job I have taken on . You say 'we' so hopefully the other person is smaller than you so they can be the one to get in the tank . They need gloves . hat , goggles and mask and will emerge rust coloured and after about three showers should revert to their original skin / hair colour with most orifices dust free. I used a wire brush in a drill to get the worst rust off and used Vactan rust converter and then Bitumen paint suitable for water tanks. On mine the pipe from the tank needed cleaning as well as that had built up a layer of rust . I wish you well.
Unfortunately I'm the smaller one so it's probably going to be me in there ?
3 hours ago, ditchcrawler said:Thank you, I'll check those out!
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1 minute ago, jenevers said:
Scrape, wire brush, Vactan then bitumen. Wear a face mask when wire brushing. Have fun?
This is a great help, there's so much information out there I was getting a bit overwhelmed! Thank you! ?
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Hello again!
We bought a boat but the integral water tank needs some work. I have read about liners and such but we are on a budget so we'll be doing the unpleasant sounding job of cleaning and painting. ?
As far as I understand the process is something like (do correct me if I'm wrong!):
- Scrape and sand away rust back to metal
- Prime
- Paint
I'm going to buy a scraper and some wire brushes but I'm not sure what to coat the tank with, I've heard about blacking, epoxy, and vatcan, what would you recommend? Any advice would be much appreciated, thanks!
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16 hours ago, Alan de Enfield said:
Tell the truth and say you are living on a boat.
If you have any accident and they find you have not informed them of your change of address it could invalidate your insurance, Your insurance premium is based on your post code and where (drive / garage / road) the car is kept.
Tell them that your mailing address is your parents.
Will do, thanks for your help!
16 hours ago, ditchcrawler said:I got caught out about 4 years ago, I called into Venetian marina to discuss a long term mooring, no problem the chap said and gave me a plan showing all the spaces they had, I said can I reserve one, no need he said, plenty of room. I turned up in September, went into the office and said can I have a mooring please, the young lady said, one night or a week? No I said at least a year. The reply was sorry but we are full up. I could have got a space there the following April.
A winter mooring in a marina as about the same price as a CRT winter towpath mooring and you have all the facilities.
I'll be sure to book something in the next week I think!
11 hours ago, Ray T said:Other marina's in the area:
Wigram's, Crick, Cropredy & Ventnor, Castle Marina's. https://www.castlemarinas.co.uk/ Ventnor do not allow liveaboards.
Calcutt: http://www.calcuttboats.com/moorings.html
Napton: https://napton-marina.co.uk/moorings/index.php
Braunston: https://braunstonmarina.co.uk/Moorings-and-Services/
Yelvertoft: http://yelvertoft-marina.com/index.html
Best to contact them regarding livaboard / residential status.
Thats really helpful, thanks!
4 hours ago, doratheexplorer said:You probably should have sorted these things out before you bought the boat but it's too late now. The reality is that most marinas have a few liveaboards unofficially, but if you as a stranger ring a marina and immediately start asking about residential moorings, then they're gonna get suspicious and tell you no. What most people do is work on a basis of "don't ask, don't tell". You're after a mooring, that's all. If they don't ask if you're a liveaboard, that's up to them. When you take up your mooring, just keep your head down. Go out cruising regularly too so you're not there all the time. The absolute worst that will happen is that you're asked to leave, and you have to find another mooring. But that's unlikely if you don't cause any bother to the marina owner. I'm not condoning any of this, it's just the way it's done.
Your other options for a mooring, would be a CRT mooring, where nobody really checks up on who's living there. There's moorings available at Hillmorton just outside Rugby right now.
Yeah, I realise that now ? had a little panic yesterday but a couple of marinas have said they have space so I'm going to have a look next week. That's good to know, I'll check out Hillmorton too, thank you!
3 hours ago, nickhindle said:Barby marina is close to Rugby. It's a nice marina, nice owners, people live aboard there, and it looks like they're offering 25% off mooring fees at the moment.
I'll give them a ring, looks like it's in a good location for me
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3 hours ago, nicknorman said:
You might try Fazeley Mill Marina, they don’t seem too worried whether you live aboard or not so just don’t mention the issue. Plenty of folk seem to be there permanently.
Thanks for the suggestion but I work in Rugby and that's a little too far
3 hours ago, Alan de Enfield said:You may well struggle to get official liveaboard moorings, but some places turn a blind-eye to 'excessive usage' on leisure moorings - but you are unlikely to be able to use the marina address for mail, insurance, voting etc etc.
You will need to set up a mailbox with a friend / work / or relative to receive your mail.
I see, one marina I spoke to said that as we work full time it would probably be fine, that makes sense now.
1 hour ago, dor said:Many people don't live on their boat. But do "spend a lot of time on it".
It's fairly easy to tell if a marina has "liveaboards", just don't use the term. And as Alan says, sort out your "address" details in advance.
Aah, this makes sense, I rang one marina who said that they didnt so liveaboards "as such" Haha!
What do people do about car insurance in this case? My parents home is far away and I have a black box at the moment and they'll be able to see I'm not parked there ?
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Thank you everyone, I've started ringing around and it looks like finding a liveaboard mooring may be harder than I first thought ?
14 minutes ago, matty40s said:Plenty of spare moorings last winter at Brinklow, Braunston, Dunchurch Pools, Welton Hythe/Haven.
Do you know whether Brinklow offer liveaboard moorings?
Water pump pulsing
in Boat Building & Maintenance
Posted
Thanks for your all your comments, I've had a tough time losing a relative and so getting back to this thread hasn't been a priority. I appreciate you trying to help but as the problem appears to have fixed itself I'll have to get back to it another time. Thanks all.