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Quattrodave

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Everything posted by Quattrodave

  1. What Mr Blackrose said ^^ This is exactly what I did, although I only had 25mm (1") closed cell foam and it works perfectly...
  2. Errr what scale are you measuring oil pressure in? My first thought is the oil is being 'watered down' I'd guess with diesel, has the oil level gone up with out adding oil??
  3. A decent instructor may be able to teach you a few tips and tricks but I fear, as others have said, you may well have picked most of it up. Ask at your local Sea Cadets Unit, most of not all will have RYA instructors that are happy to do training for donations to the Sea Cadets.
  4. I've had a few cushions made up recently, personally I like 2" bluefoam + 2" memory foam.
  5. I'm a little surprised by this sentence, are the engine and gearbox physically seperate and linked only by a a drive shaft? Or do the engine & gearbox share oil and or coolant?? Any photos available??
  6. I wonder what's failed on the coolant pump. If its bearings then just replace the bearings. https://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?/topic/114439-bmc-22-coolant-pump-refurb/
  7. My guess the NB in question has been stuck up on a cill at some stage and is twisted and possibly even slightly bent...
  8. Well I think it's a bit mean, if AI want to learn about boating and ask questions the why shouldn't it?
  9. Defiantly! Used this method on the broads soft banks many years ago, works very well!!
  10. Agreed. For a powerful starter battery at good money go to a decent motor factors and ask for a 'back cab battery' probably 70 or 80ah with cca of 800 or 900.
  11. Indeed, many years ago when working with a race team we didn't use anti freeze as the water cools better. I dare say they use something different these days... Edit IIRC it was 'pure water' I believe its free from impurities, calcium, chlorine, electrolytes etc etc...
  12. https://www.tek-tanks.com/product-category/tanks/tank-accessories/inspection-hatches/ Edit: Cancel that, its not rated for fuel. Edit edit: Correction, some are rated for diesel...
  13. Call Lancashire Rotating Electronics and ask them for a replacement and whatsapp them a pic, new one will likely arrive the following day...
  14. That's a good shout I didn't think about injectors. I've never had these ones overhauled, I'll pop them out and get them sent off at some stage soon.
  15. Evening all, BMC 2.2 diesel engine has intermittent puffs of blue smoke, not talking about cold but when really nice and warm, running for a couple of hours. It feels a little strange to me as it's not constant & it seems to happen more at lower revs, less than 1800 ish. I'm assuming it oil burning (blue smoke), compression is good and pretty even between the cylinders, it starts well, even from cold, 10 secs of heat & turn turn fire and runs smooth immediately, so I'm assuming the rings are ok. I've checked the breather it's clear. My only other thought is valve stem oil seals, I'm sure if read somewhere only required on inlet valves. Anyway, what do you guys think, is it more likely to be oil burning, whats the most likely suspect?
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  17. Personally I wouldn't get the propex heater repaired, I'd replace it with a diesel heater. Just be aware they can use a fair bit of electricity if used for a long time. Perhaps have a look at a Refleks heater. A friend has one and I'm so jealous!! During the winter he runs it 24 / 7 has a nice visible flame, uses very little diesel and zero electricity!!
  18. These are the ones I use: (Use the right size, image is just to show the type, Mikalor do nice ones...) Be careful tho, 'cos you can't half get 'em tight!! I also use a little bit of exhaust assembly paste, really helps to stick the parts together...
  19. Wow, that's not been underwater has it! I think you might be opening a can of worms there!
  20. Yup, exactly what I've done, or as far as is reasonably possible. It's much easier to extend the inlet tubing than the exhaust.
  21. The only 2 passcodes i know of are 1688 & 9009. Of course there may well be newer heaters i haven't used yet...
  22. The heaters work well but you MUST ditch all the garbage components, clips, fuel lines, filters, exhaust, wiring (basically everything apart from the heater) and replace with the marine equivalent. if the heater cost £100 the extra parts will.often be £150 to £200. Make sure you 'tune' it once running and for God's sake make sure your CO alarm works!
  23. Depends on the quality of the padlock a short sharp tap with a hammer will either peeaknit off or cause the pin to jump... Every one should have one, amazing tool!
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