Tracy D'arth

The Oxford canal is a narrow canal, keep your wide boat away as you will cause untold aggravation to everyone else and it will be most unpleasant for you and everyone.

Sounds like its a standard RCR make work, make money, job. I didn't know that there was a fuel solenoid.

The weight of the water bears down on the paddle holding it against the culvert inlet rather than hanging vertically if that makes any difference.

If you get the valve you want to adjust fully open then turn crank one full turn exactly as Tony said, the valve must be full closed then. Works for any engine with any number of cylinders.

I have never worried about booking, the boats off the Bridgewater don't seem to bother when and how long they are on the C&RT waters in my observations.

Is the key switch out in the weather?

Hob Bright for electric solid cast iron hobs works fine and is easy as it is in a loaded foam pad.

Fit it so that its the first thing to hit the other boat broadside.

Not likely to matter with a slow running underworked motor in a canal boat.

I have no idea what that message means, is it in the instructions or if you ask? Try disconnecting it from the batteries for an hour, it may reset. Are the batteries fully charged? Did it do this because the engine was running? It must be either over volt or under volt trip.

Something like this K&N air filter. https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/k-n-filters-universal-round-tapered-air-filter-244169/

You should still get the relay to connect when you rev the engine. It will just take a lot longer to get the batteries fully charged which you must do to prevent them sulphating and dying prematurely.

12.8v is fully charged for a 12v lead acid battery. Or do you mean the alternator is only outputting 13,1v instead of 14v and a bit more? What split charge relay is it that monitors the voltage? A relay does not do this. Do you mean a voltage sensitive relay? Which? I cannot see why this is a problem. Does it not connect the cabin batteries? The usual way is to charge the cabin batteries first, then connect the start battery as it needs less charge. The SR2 is difficult for charging because the alternator runs off the cam shaft at half engine speed, you need a large pulley on the cam and the smallest pulley possible on the alternator.

🤣 😁 😆 😂 😇 🤠 😏 No condensation then ,,,, ever?

What degree of resistance is the question. The occasional splash or the occasional dipping in water. Or on a boat the permanent water sloshing underneath and the condensation 9 months of the year. I have seen loads of houses with weetabix under radiator valves that drip a bit. I have also seen lots of boats with spongy chipboard floors.

Its moisture RESISTANT CHIPBOARD !

Ugh! Chipboard floors in a boat, seriously bad idea. I know marine ply is not was it used to be and expensive but you would be better off with Resin bonded OSB.

Not really, these are what everybody uses https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/156142610396?

I use a bar of soap.

To be clear, tapered posts are fine but the clamp connectors must have a threaded stud with nut to take a crimped on cable lug, the nasty one illustrated with pressure screws onto the caple are not OK Solidly soldered cable into the connectors as are generally on made up battery cables are also OK.

There is no restriction on using threaded posts with nuts or the traditional tapered lead posts either. Lugs with nuts and bolts are also perfectly OK.

I used to install 'phone switching centers. The battery makers insisted on every connection on the 48v racks being cleaned and covered totally with the supplied packets of grease, which was actually the same as Holts No-Crode. And they were thousands of amps @48v !