Jump to content

Cal Ando

  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Occupation
    Transport Consultant
  • Boat Name
  • Boat Location
    Frouds Bridge

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Cal Ando's Achievements



  1. I seem to be missing something regarding lockmaster, Go-windlass and similar ratchet windlass. With the exception of the Lockmaster, these seem to have the same throw as a normal windlass, but have a ratchet on the end operating the paddle. When I hit a stiff paddle with a normal (long throw alloy) windlass, I place the handle in the bottom position and pull up a few inches, then reposition the windlass and repeat. Amazingly, there seems to be some magical ratchet like thingy in the paddle gear. So My question is, if there's always a ratchet system in the paddle gear (Go Windlasses don t work on hydraulics) what's the advantage in the ratchet windlass please? Is it just speed? Mrs Ando sometimes need a longer throw, not another ratchet.
  2. I hadn't thought about the expansion coefficients and should have! Thank goodness for forums such as this and for all the wit and wisdom within!
  3. I may be being thick here, but from the picture, can't see where the water goes. The diverter looks as if it acts only as a dam. Can someone explain, please?
  4. Thanks for all your thoughts and advice so far. I'l look for a welder. Is it possible to weld onto the roof without having to strip the wooden ceiling and insulation inside?
  5. Thanks for all your help and advice. I finally contacted 'Days Afloat' who were initially mystified as the rest of us. Lee didi an excellent job and has modified the system to look like Tony's classic system drawing. Non return valve fitted between tank and pump Non return valve fitted between hot and cold feed New PRV Accumulator added to cold water feed Expansion tank added to hot water feed isolation valve between tank and pump moved so it can be accessed by normal human being and not elastoman! system now works fine and according to spec Thanks for everyone's help.
  6. Hi. Mrs Ando suggested I run this by some people before drilling holes in my roof! We have a standard NB with Liverpool style hull, 57' cruiser stern and pram cover. The canopy is lovely BUT, the roof gutters were designed to channel rain off the roof and dump it over the rear bulkhead onto the cruiser stern where it would either flood over the sides or be taken away by the (regularly maintained and cleared) scuppers. Trouble is, with the pram cover up and heavy rains like we've had recently, the rainwater literally pours from the roof gutters and splashes on the rear deck inside the pram cover. Approx 1 gallon/min the other day and looked like a leaking lock gate! So I thought I'd cut a small rectangular section out the the roof gutter about 12" before the gutter's end and araldite some channel in the gap that would divert the rain water over the side before it reaches the end of the existing gutter - i.e diverting the flow over the side instead of over the end. Alternatives would be to drill round holes and insert suitably shaped piece of pipe. all inserts would be shaped to extend within the flow area to be sure of catching all water before the bulkhead. Can anyone see any issues, faults or future maintenance issues with this plan, please? Much appreciated in advance
  7. Thanks for all of your answers and I know it's difficult to diagnose faults by email. I need a new PRV! I returned to the boat for the first time this season, put some water in the tank, opened main tank output stopcock and the pump was still taking a long time to switch off when taps were closed. I felt around the PRV and there were no leaks, however now the pump would not switch off at all with the taps closed. Mystified, I felt around the PRV again and felt it move slightly. Then ... see picture! Yep, literally came off in my hand, couldn't tighten it back up, but just thanked the Gods that water wasn't flooding out (can anyone explain why please?). Adjustable spanner was too thick to fit under the cap and my spanner set only went up to 21mm - guess what AF size the flats were (22mm of course). Finally forced the adjustable up under the cap against the valve spring and tightened it up only for pump to continue running. Removed valve again, sealed threads with PTFE tape and lots of bad language, and refitted valve seat. Pump now shuts off but still takes its time. No hot water coming from cold taps any more as far as I can tell and I also stripped and cleaned water pump filter, which needed doing. This time I did forget to turn the main stop cock off and water flooded out. Luckily, or by design, I'd fitted the pump inside a meat roasting dish for such events, so the water didn't go all over the bilges. Basically ran frantically down the boat to shut off the stopcock and Mrs Calando and Calando-woof leapt aside for dear life. This temp repair to the PRV will get us to Wigwam's. There, a friendly engineer has agreed to dismantle the boat so that he can fit a new PRV valve as its on the bottom of the calorifier pipework. We'll get the calorifier turned round properly this winter when we're at our home mooring. Hoping a properly sealed PRV will resolve all my problems.
  8. Thanks guys. Now how do I get my trapped air out. And then how do I get it out of the calorifier?. Why didn't it come out before.
  9. I can confirm that with water in the system, the pump on and taps closed that once the pump cuts out it stays cut out for hours unless a tap is opened. The calorifier is horizontal. I will be able to take naughty pictures of it tomorrow.
  10. Thanks to everyone for their thoughts and suggestions so far. One last question for now. as the symptoms occurred last year before the system was drained and winterised, we are in the unique situation of having a 'reset' scenario on the whole system. I.e. tank empty, calorifier empty, all lines and taps empty/isolated (in theory). Can anyone suggest any tests (apart from TB's idea to check the voltage which I shall do) whilst the system is drained and /or before or as the system is filled. I don't want it down too long as I want some tea! Also if I change the PRV is there a better time?
  11. Hi Tony. I'm suspecting the PRV valve because I read your training page viz: Continual leaks from PRV If the PRV drain is leaking all the time it indicates one of three faults:- Pump pressure switch failed or set too high. Leaky PRV valve seat. Faulty PRV The latter is not that common. The PRV Knob The PRV normally has a plastic knob on top. This looks as if it is some form of adjustment. In fact it is a device that lifts the valve off its seating every time you turn it and it clicks. If the pump keeps running and there is a constant leak from the PRV drain hose it may well be caused by scale caught on the valve seat. Twist the knob a few times with the pump on to try to flush the scale from the seat. PRVs are not normally adjustable. Always fit a PRV with a lower pressure rating than the calorifier – typically between 2 and 2.5 bar (30 to 37 psi). as the pump keeps running, and my home engineer suggested that there may be crud in the valve seat, I'm suspecting the PRV, But opening it doesn't make any difference. hence the PRV is either nothing to do with the issue or it is so stuck it needs changing. I couldn't tell or remember whether it was passing water constantly as the outlet is a skin fitting. I'll run the pump and look outside when we go tot the boat tomorrow. The pump is running at its usual speed, batteries are all fine and current draws are normal so I'm not suspecting low voltage to the pump. Does my reasoning with the PRV make sense or would you still suggest leaving it alone?
  12. Thanks Arbutus. The water tank is stainless, the replacement water pump is currently in the system(but is same model as original) and there is a small filter in the inlet of the water pump wot I have taken off and washed!? Unless anyone has any better ideas, I'll drive over to Midland Chandlers and buy a new PRV . If my pump delivers 35 PSi (i.e. 2.4 bar), do I get a 3 bar or 4 bar PRV. I don't know what's on there at the moment and hope to waste as little time as poss swapping it out.
  13. So sorry for misleading everyone! All these symptoms occurred BEFORE the calorifier was drained for the winter but after it ran out of water on our journey. However, what Tony and Bee say makes sense as someone else said before we left it over winter that the calorifier was acting as a giant accumulator. We're going up to the boat this w/e so hopefully a complete refill of the system might cure it or bring more symptoms. Thanks for the advice re sucking air out via hot tap. PS no blockage between tank and pump as pipe was removed and checked, but thanks to Jen-in-Wellies for this suggestion.
  14. Hi. Can anyone recommend an engineer who can work on domestic water systems for our NB. Ashwood Marina cannot help and we need to get to Napton (Wigrams) via Stourport, Netherton, Kingswood & Lapworth. The water pump runs for excessively long periods before pressurising (e.g. 40 secs) and hot water comes out of cold taps for a few secs. We are in the unique situation of still having the calorifier drained down for winter. The symptoms are: Open a tap and after few secs as normal, pump cuts in, but them takes about 40 secs to shut off after tap closed. 1) Didn't do this before we ran out of water on Trent & Mersey (Oct last year 1 month before winterising) 2) pump takes long time to pressurise 3) Engineer on the Trent & Mersey looked at system whilst on our way to Ashwood and failed to fix it. Claimed main tank blockage, pump failure, NR valve failure, filter blockage, system leak, split calorifier. No major leaks detected, No blocakges detected, fitted new pump which didn't fix issue, charged loads of money for failing to fix, I manage to fix the leaking hoses after he'd fitted the new pump! 4) Hot water comes out of cold tap for about 15 secs when pump cuts in. 5) Actuated PRV on calorifier and beaten 6 bells out of housing to try and loosen any scale on the seat. 6) The system does NOT have an accumulator I'm thinking this might require a new PRV and if so, now, with the system drained, would be a good time to change it. Only worry I have is introducing leaks when system is filled. Any other ideas are welcome! If anyone knows anyone who could diagnose and fix this issue I'd be most grateful. Whilst we're here, anyone know a boat builder/carpenter who could replace aft steps, bed and create a Pulman dinette? TIA
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.