Verboatin

Ok GOOD NEWS! We run the boat again for another hour today, successfully got the reading to show 14V which dropped to 12v when the engine was off. This allowed me to change the programs to run the bypass, charger but disable the inverter (so if we lose shore power it shouldn't switch to battery power, in theory anyway). We hit the run button and the inverter started working again, AC in, AC Out, 14.5v showing on the voltmeter and most importantly both the bypass, charger and ac out are lit. Electrics are working again and I presume the batteries are recharging.... Here is how the shore power is connected to the boat: So one problem down, the next one to resolve: The heating system. I've taken pictures of the whole system, the nordicstove connects to the pump via pipes, there is a black and white thermostat which has black cables going to the wall and the pump, there are blanking plates on the wall (no sockets/switches), the only switch appears to be on the pump itself which is a dial. Changing this or the thermostat doesn't appear to do anything.

It seems that because the connection on the boat side is mounted vertically, rainwater is running down it and somehow finding its way into the casing and 'filling it up' like a cup. We already plan to cover the connector with a box to prevent the issue, the slit was something the previous owner had done on their cable so evidentially it was a known problem. About the batteries: These are lucas lx31mf which I think are 105AH and it seems we have a bank of 10 (5 on shelves on each side of the engine bay), we were planning on replacing these anyway so if the batteries are causing all of our issues this wouldn't be a major problem, however something I've noticed is that the LX31MF already fitted are 'twin post' types, we have been offered brand new 110AH leisure batterys for around half the price of these, is there any specific reason you would need twin post batteries or are we ok to replace them with standard leisure batteries that have a higher AH? The shoreside bollard is not tripped, I have checked it multiple times and each RCD is turned on, the inverter is also showing an AC Input. Looking at the manual and a very basic understanding seems to suggest that the inverter has an 'undervoltage trip' which I believe is cutting the circuit due to the battery levels, I guess its a good thing really Thanks all

Long time since I've made a post here but circumstances have changed and my father is now the proud owner of a 57 foot narrowboat! He purchased the boat to liveaboard since selling his house and entering retirement at the end of February, however for the last 2 months has been forced to continue living with me as we keep occurring issues on the boat. The main one currently is with the Invertek Sinewave Combi Inverter. He found he had no power on the boat despite it being connected to shore power (he is in a marina). We have access to the cabinet and I'm confirmed it hasn't tripped, however when removing the hookup lead I noticed water in the end cap connected to the boat, on the old lead a small slit was cut into the plastic casing to allow water to escape, something we didn't remember when purchasing a longer lead...? It seems what has happened is the water has interrupted the AC power so the inverter has switched to battery power automatically and drained the battery bank. After drying out the lead we reconnected everything and nothing came back on, so we run the engine and the inverter lit up, displaying 13.7v with a fast running engine. We run it for about an hour and then stopped and the voltage simply drops to around 11v and then the inverter bleeps loudly and displays the Uvt error shown. The AC In led is lit (Orange) and the Bypass and Inverter Leds are flashing green (hard to photograph as the inverter is in a cupboard and I have to reach in and take a photo on my phone to see it clearly); The battery LED is not and will not light up, shouldn't this be lit when shore power is connected to charge the batteries? I will be revisiting the boat tomorrow after leaving it connected to shore power today. Second issue relates to the Nordic Diesel Stove and 'central heating' system. (I don't have pictures of this currently, sorry) The boat has one of these stoves https://www.ruralenergy.com/heating-equipment/var-nor250-nordicstove-25000-series Connected to it is pipework running to 4 radiators via a pump which appears to have power (switch is lit up) but doesn't seem to come on to move any water around, the pipes get hold up until the pump but no further, there is black/white thermostat next to this but adjusting this or the switch on the pump itself doesn't appear to make a difference. We have already tried bleeding the radiators. The stove ignites and kicks out a good amount of heat, this issue occurred before any issues with the inverter. Any help would be appreciated, we are in March, Cambridgeshire btw. Thank you!

My dad owns a boat moored at the Denver Sluice Complex and visited it last weekend to discover that thieves had remoored the boat tightly and had stolen the outboard, fuel tank, and controls. The outboard was a Mercury Mariner 4 stroke 15hp, controls were a manual choke single lever, electric start. Fuel tank was a 20 litre red plastic tank. The boat was moored next to ten mile bank and thieves would have had to block the road whilst they took time to get the items off. Due to the weight of the outboard it would have taken multiple people also. Police have been informed. Keep an eye/ear out please. Anyone want a 20ft boat hull?