Eloisec93
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Posts posted by Eloisec93
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Hey
So I've been having issues with my propella not engaging when in gear. Sometimes it works fine other times there is a delay.
I had a mechanic come and look and he says I need to have the gearbox out and reconditioned.
I have a hurth gearbox
Model no. Zf 10 m
Fitted on a vetus m4 engine
I'm trying to get a quote for how much it will cost to compare it to getting a new gear box. Has anyone had this done before? Or have a contact number of where I need to send it off to to get a quote?
Any help or information would be much appreciated
I have someone who can take out and fit the gear box I just need info or contact to get a quote for reconditioning.
Or alternatively what new gearbox would be recommended?
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Hey
I have a pressure release valve on my calorifyer with a pipe that goes to the engine bilge.
It only leaks a drip every few seconds when the engine is running and heating up hot water in the calorifyer.
I have replaced the pressure release valve but the same thing happens. Drip by drip it fills up my engine bilge as the engine is on. When the engine is off no dripping
I don't really understand has anyone got any advice or suggestions?
I have an expansion tank near the water tank and water pump.
I know I have posted already but I wanted to post again with the information that I do have an expansion tank.
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Hey
I have a pressure release valve on my calorifyer with a pipe that goes to the engine bilge.
It only leaks a drip every few seconds when the engine is running and heating up hot water in the calorifyer.
I have replaced the pressure release valve but the same thing happens. Drip by drip it fills up my engine bilge as the engine is on. When the engine is off no dripping
I don't really understand has anyone got any advice or suggestions?
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hello my cratch cover is leaking the water soaks right through and also drips along the seams.
It is a canvas cover
What is the best product to re waterproof it??
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hey so I've recently installed two solar panals on my boat. The boat electrition who wired them in suggested I use high powered magnets on the mounts instead of drilling holes in the boat.
Seems like a good idea to me but I just wanted to hear anyone else's thoughts is this going to affect the boat in any way?
I have uploaded pictures of the magnets he suggested and a picture of how he did it on his own boat.
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hey so I've recently installed two solar panals on my boat. The boat electrition who wired them in suggested I use high powered magnets on the mounts instead of drilling holes in the boat.
Seems like a good idea to me but I just wanted to hear anyone else's thoughts is this going to affect the boat in any way?
I have uploaded pictures of the magnets he suggested and a picture of how he did it on his own boat.
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15 minutes ago, rgreg said:
My Alde system has a valve to the radiators and one to the calorifier for hot water so they can be operated independently. If yours hasn't, then you can just turn off the individual radiators as Beo suggests.
As a secondary space heating/ hot water system combined with a solid fuel stove the Alde is fine. I very rarely use it for space heating and it heats up the water efficiently.
how long does it take to heat hot water with the radiators off?
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17 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:
The Alde boiler is a 'leave it on continuously' boiler (like being in a house) the problem is that it is very thirsty and I know several people who have removed them and replaced them with Eberspacher / Webasto heaters due to the expense of using 2x 13kg gas cylinders per week (£60) in cold weather.
What you had previously was an 'instantaneous' gas water heater. They are still available, so you could rip out the Alde and fit one.
Is there a way I can just use the alde gas boiler for hot water only and not heating. I have a wood burner and prefer that for heat anyway
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hey so we have just got our new boat (new second hand boat)
She has an alde gas boiler for hot water and radiators.
On our old boat we just has a gas boiler we turned it on full and a few seconds later we had hot water running through the taps.
When we turn on the alde gas boiler on our new boat hot water doesn't come out.
Am I supposed to leave it on to heat water? Also is there a way to have only hot water and not have the radiators come on as well?
The whole system is a bit of an overkill for us as we prefer a simpler system. We are worried we are going to use so much gas if we have to leave it on for a certain amount of time to heat the water
Thanks
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24 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:
When you say 'new boat' is this your first boat ?
Is it a 'new boat' or a 2nd hand boat ?
If not how does it compare with your previous boats ?
You have identified a couple of 'problems' :
The loading on boats varies (almost) daily as fuel is used and tank refilled, as the water is used and the tank refilled and a full pump-out tank (which is often on one side) can make a big difference. So it is not abnormal for a boat to list at times.
Re veering off, again this is not unusual it could be that the boat is a bit 'banana-shaped' (not uncommon with Liverpool boats) but is more likely to be a combination of prop-walk and a misaligned rudder.
If it is a real problem for you it is fairly simple to weld a small 'trim tab' onto the rudder blade which will take the load off the rudder and the boat should track 'true'.
So she is my third boat. She's second hand and made by sagar marine.
She seemed to steer to the left at all speeds
Compared to my old boat "millie fleur" my new boat seemed to have a mind of her own. Millie fleur did exactly what i wanted her to do.
I'm going to see if i can access the ballast in the hull today. But yesterday I added two slabs of concrete to one side and she looks a little bit more balanced but its hard to tell.
I'm not sure the pump out was empty when I got her yesterday as she was very smelly but it soon went after airing her out and letting her settle after being craned in.
Water tank is full
I will check Diesel today
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hey
I got my new boat road transported and craned in yesterday.
I cruised her along the canal and moored up.
As i was cruising I noticed she wasn't steering straight and kept veering off to the left.
She was also listing towards the left as everything is built on one side and potentially the ballast has shifted in transportation.
Could the list cause her to veer off on her own accord when steering straight? Or am I looking at a tiller problem.?
She definitely felt like she had a mind of her own when cruising!
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3 minutes ago, bizzard said:
How old is the boat? If old it might have a through wet bilge. where rain water can run through from the front well to the rear. Also always switch off the fresh water pump when you go out, if a pipe springs a leak the water pump will empty the tank into the vboat.
She was built in 1990 45ft pat buckle semi trad narrowboat
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11 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:
Is that a shower emptying pump in a box by any chance
What kind of box?
Our shower is like one of those hip bath types things
There is a pump fitted in the plug and sucks the water out when switched on
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3 minutes ago, The Dreamer said:
Making some assumptions, but worth considering.
If your freshwater tank is in the bow, and is empty(ish), this will also make the front of the boat weigh less, and in a seesaw kind of way cause the stern to drop lower. My tank is 1000 litres, and therefore weighs a ton when full, if I let it run two-thirds empty the stern will sit at least an inch lower. Also, you say the inspection hatches are full, this does not sound like just a leaky shower, but a full blown leak. If you have a hole in your plumbing, then all that water from the fresh tank will flow downhill (all narrowboats lean back), thus transferring up to 1000kgs of weight, front to back. If you have a leak your water pumps will be running overtime, if they are isolate them ASAP, to stop anymore water escaping.
as I say, assumptions, but worth checking..
Yes the water tank is at the front and is nearly empty which could be why she is leaning back a bit!
There is about an inch of water in both inspection hatches. The only reason why I suspect the shower is because the surveyor said the bathroom was an amature fit out and we should re do it to stop the shower leaking.
My water pump only comes on when I run the taps and isn't running all the time.
I don't have a cabin bilge pump fitted I don't think. In the shower there is a switch that pumps the water out of the bottom of the shower but only from the shower it seems
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Hello we have owed our boat Millie Fleur for just over a month now.
I came home today in daylight for the first time (I work early to late hours) and noticed she was sitting slightly lower in the water at the back. I turned on the engine bilge and pumped out the rain water that had collected. But still she sat low in the water ?
I then checked the inspection hatched inside the cabin one by our back door and one in our bathroom (also at the back of the boat). Both hatches are full of water ?.
I want to get the water out but I don't know how. I guess I need to buy a water pump.
Please can people recommend a good water pump? As I have no clue.
Also any suggestions on what to do? I hope I'm not sinking and I suspect the water may be leaking from the shower when I have a shower?
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5 minutes ago, Bod said:
The metal ring usually is bolted to a battery terminal.
Find/read the installation instructions for the equipment you have, and follow them to the letter.
As you have different coloured wires, it may be important which wire goes to which input terminal on the charger.
Put up a clear photo of your charger then we might be able to help better.
Bod
We have a charge control/battery charger display by sterling power. This turns on when we hook up to the shore power to charge the batteries. It then beeps after about 10mins saying batteries over temp.
We also have solar panels and a different display for the solar
In the picture is the Stirling power display one
Also I found the picture of the temperature sensor on the internet on the sterling power website
https://sterling-power.com/search?type=product&q=Temperature+sensor
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1 minute ago, Bod said:
Your stated method of use, is very different to the instructions shown in the photograph.
Is the photo of the sensor the actual one you have?
Bod
Oh yes well spotted!
I don't know if mine is the same as that mine is a black and red wire with the metal ring.
Perhaps mine isn't meant to sit underneath the battery and actually on the negative of the battery?
I don't really know much about electrics only basic knowledge how will I know if it's the same as the picture???
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7 hours ago, Boater Sam said:
Its an insulated 2 wire thermocouple usually in a standard cable lug that is bolted onto a battery post like a connection. As it monitors the temperature of the lead lug or post it can get hot if the power lead on that connection is poorly connected. This could be what you are seeing here.
I definitely think it's the heat sensor playing up. It's very annoying all I want to do is charge my new batteries and make sure they don't go under 12v ???
I've move the heat sensor completely away from the batteries and the charge controller is still saying over heating
The heat sensor is just a wire with a metal bit on that sits underneath the battery (see picture)
I'm gunna have a go at disconnecting all the batteries and reconnecting them properly. Or perhaps I need to fit a new temperature sensor. But I wouldn't really know where to start with that
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11 minutes ago, Onewheeler said:
Are they hot to the touch or is it just the sensor saying they're hot?
No not hot to touch I just went and checked
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Just now, matty40s said:
Have you actually got a heat sensing device connected to your batteries, have you felt the batteries to see if they are actually warm. ??
If they are, it may be they have not been topped up prior to sale(this happens), and you may need to add some distilled water...
Yes we have a heat sensor connector to the batteries that monitors the heat of the batteries and their outer casing.
Both these temperatures show up on our battery charge controller
The batteries are around +45degrees and the outer casing +22degrees when on charge
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Hi
We recently bought 3 new leisure batteries as the old ones were not holding any charge.
We have plugged in to hook up to charge the batteries as they weren't even half full on our solar charge control.
But every time we we plug in the hook up to the battery charger the battery charger beeps saying the batteries are over heating.
Is it something we have done wrong? What is causing the batteries to over heat when on charge?
What are the dangers of over heating batteries?
We have a sterling power product battery charge controller
And we have fitted 3 new leisure batteries from halfords Voltage: 12V with Capacity 115Ah
im getting very stressed and worried because I don't want overheating batteries but also I don't want them to drop below 12v
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10 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:
I would suggest if the 79 minutes is counting up its the time it has been in absorption mode or if its counting down its the time left before the charger drops to float mode. Note that when it drops to float may be far too early for an optimum charge.
Hi Tony I think your right! I have just researched the three stages of charging.
Why do you think it may be to early for an optimum charge? Please can you explain? Sorry I am new to all of this and learning!
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Hey guys
So we fitted 3 brand new leisure batteries today as our others were not holding any charge and on the recent survey it was recommended we replace them.
I replaced the batteries with 3 brand new leisure batteries from Halfords Voltage: 12V with Capacity 115Ah
everything is working fine on the boat the solar charge control has a happy face with full batteries
our other charge control was saying 78 mins absorpt wet open (see picture)
I have no idea what this means and wondered if any one knew???
We are new to this boat and getting to know it. It may be a silly question but I'm curious to know what it means
Thanks
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4 hours ago, Alan de Enfield said:
It depends on how long you have to move it :
There are Winter closures now which (somewhere on route) will affect your journey.
Delivery on a truck will take 1-day. £1100 - £1300
By water (and assuming no stoppages) it will be £2000
By water :
This is a trip of 205 miles, 1¾ furlongs and 234 locks from Hilperton (Staverton) Marina to Evesham Marina.
This will take 120 hours and 46 minutes which is 17 days, 1 hour and 46 minutes at 7 hours per day.
From Hilperton (Staverton) Marina travel east on the Kennet and Avon Canal (Main Line) for 44 miles, ¼ furlongs and 71 locks to Northcroft Lane Arm, then travel east on the River Kennet for 18 miles, 4 furlongs and 20 locks to High Bridge Reading, then travel northeast on the River Thames (River Kennet) for 7 furlongs and 1 lock to Thames - Kennet Junction (Kennet Mouth), then travel northwest on the River Thames (below Oxford) for 39 miles, 4 furlongs and 13 locks to Osney Bridge, then travel north on the River Thames (above Oxford) for ¾ furlongs to Sheepwash Channel Junction, then travel east on the River Thames (Sheepwash Channel) for 1 furlong and 1 lock to Isis Lock Junction, then travel north on the Oxford Canal (Southern Section - Main Line) for 49 miles, 3¼ furlongs and 38 locks to Napton Junction, then travel west on the Grand Union Canal (Warwick and Napton Canal) for 14 miles, ¾ furlongs and 25 locks to Budbrooke Junction, then travel northwest on the Grand Union Canal (Warwick and Birmingham Canal: widened section - Main Line) for 7 miles, 2½ furlongs and 21 locks to Kingswood Junction, then travel northwest on the Stratford Canal (Kingswood Branch) for 1¼ furlongs to Lapworth Link Junction, then travel northwest on the Stratford Canal (Lapworth Link) for 1 furlong to Lapworth Junction South, then travel south on the Stratford Canal (South Section) for 13 miles, ¾ furlongs and 35 locks to Junction of Stratford Canal and River Avon, then travel southwest on the River Avon - Warwickshire (Upper Avon Navigation) for 17 miles, 7¼ furlongs and 9 locks to Evesham Marina.
Now, assuming £100 per day for a skipper it will be £1800 + fuel costs (another £200) Total cost £2000
Carriage by truck will be around £800-£1000 at £150x 2 for the lift out / lift in. Total cost £1100 - £1300,
I recently had my boat taken by truck 205 miles, but being a 14 foot widebeam it needed a separate escort vehicle and Police movement licence and restricted times on some roads meaning a 'night out' for the Driver and the Escort driver. Cost was £2280
Thank you so much this information is such a great help! I will pass it on to my mum ?
Gearbox reconditioning???
in Boat Building & Maintenance
Posted
Yup this is why I'm asking for quotes on reconditioning 😊
Yup this is why I'm asking for quotes on reconditioning 😊