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ASupertramp

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Everything posted by ASupertramp

  1. Wondering if anyone has any ideas - I have a Beko washing machine plumbed into the cold supply, has been working perfectly for six months and then a few weeks ago a weird fill issue started: When I turn it on, the washing machine starts drawing water, the expansion tank level drops and the pump kicks in, however, what seems to happen is the pump only runs until the tank is full again then cuts off. The washing machine continues to pull water but at a trickle until the tank is empty again, pump kicks in, fills tank, cuts off. Previously I would just turn it on and it would fill without issue. Taps and shower are all fine. Filling the washing machine drawer with a bottle of water also works but means having to stand next to the machine and wait to hear for it trying to draw water, which is a faff. Any ideas? I’ve tried repressuring the expansion tank to no avail and given the taps all work, feels like a washing machine issue. Thanks!
  2. Thank you both, so nothing catastrophic which is reassuring. I’ve just bled the skin tank, lots of air in there and I ran the engine for a couple of hours, nothing major though a steady stream of steam emanating from the front of the engine. I’ll try and have a look at the water pump (thank you Tony) though it sits mighty close to the bulkhead. Glad to know the oil leak is something obvious, I was worried it was related to the overheating and thought I’d cracked something. I ran the engine with the coolant filler cap off just to see what was going on, how ‘bubbly’ should that be? I wonder if when I connected the calorifier up, I introduced air into the system.
  3. Good evening! Hoping to gain some advice. I’ve got a BMC 1.8 that overheated and cut out, billows of steam in the engine bay and burnt paint. Checked the coolant, couldn’t see any (despite virtually full a week or so earlier). Bilge always has water in so hard to tell where the coolant went. After the engine cooled down, the following day I topped up the coolant and it’s been reasonably fine since however I’ve been keeping a close eye on it and can see steam coming out of the front of the engine (near the alternator) shortly after starting it up. Coolant also seems to be dropping again but can’t see where it’s leaking from. Secondly, while looking for coolant leaks I spotted an oil leak coming from the side of the engine next to the air filter. When running it streams out and then when I shut the engine down I can hear a splash of oil dropping into the bilge. No idea if this is connected or incidental finding as prior to the engine service a few weeks ago, I’ve never had a problem with oil levels. Engine is skin tank cooled and has a calorifier which gets hot. Pictures and videos attached. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  4. I received a phone call when I ordered asking if I could take delivery today, then an email last night with confirmation that they would be out for delivery today with a three hour time slot. This morning a text from the delivery man saying he would ring when within 20 mins and to text him if needed. They turned up bang on time and carried the panels to the boat for me. Can’t fault them. While I’m at it, Alpha Batteries have been excellent after I ordered the wrong MPPT, refunded, changed and new one sent out within a day.
  5. Well the panels arrived today. Needless to say, measuring does not compare to an actual 3D object, these things are huge.
  6. There are some figures floating around showing the increase when tilting, particularly in winter but you’re correct in that it would then require tilting throughout the day, which may not be practical for me as I’ll be at work. Does this look like the best way to wire the 230v side? I wasn’t sure whether to put the RCD before or after the inverter but with wanting to isolate the immersion from the inverter side, this seems to make sense? Switch not required as the victron auto switches between shore power and inverter.
  7. Absolutely no clue how it passed, hence my now 2 year effort to rebuild, finishing with the engine room electrics!
  8. Do you mean the box in the middle? It’s a Lynx Power in, effectively just a bus bar with fuses…
  9. Crude wiring diagram but helps me start thinking about how things will look.
  10. Noted, thank you. Shunt is 500amps. Victron Multiplus II 3000 ordered, additional cabling ordered. Picked up the ply today so that I can start laying out the board on Monday.
  11. Solar panels are arriving on Tuesday. The rest of the equipment on Monday. Just need to size the correct cabling and order. Any thoughts of BMV’s? I’m aware they can’t be taken as gospel.
  12. Here are the panel specs: Watts 400 Maximum Power Voltage - Vmpp(V) 41 Maximum Power Current - Impp(A) 9.76 Open Circuit Voltage - Voc(V) 49.5 Short Circuit Current - Isc (A) 10.12 Panel Efficiency (%) 21.3 Height (mm) 1646 Width (mm) 1140 Thickness (mm) 30 Weight (KG) 19 Cell Type Mono Percium So 41v? The boat was full of grey twin and earth when I bought it, couldn't work out what was 12v and what was 230v, all been ripped out since. I think that's probably the last remaining remnant. That's the plan and is why the solar installation has expanded somewhat to include rewiring the batteries, shore power etc as I'm fairly certain it's all on the cusp of being unsafe.
  13. Now that the MPPT issue has been cleared up, I've had a look at my space for mounting everything, seems like it should be enough. I'll put a piece of ply over the tongue and groove so that there is a little more depth to screw in to.
  14. I had considered series but discounted it for the previously mentioned concern regarding shading. As a happy compromise, it looks like a 100/50 to run 2x400w and a 100/30 for the other panel seems like a nice setup, ticking the cost box and adding in some redundancy.
  15. Ok so, if a 60a controller will suffice, can I simply use one of my 30a controllers (that I already have) wired into two panels (800) and the other taking a feed from the other panel?
  16. I can’t quote particularly well via the phone so just trying to summarise the advice given above. The suggestion being I can use a smaller regulator than a total of 90a for 1200w, in this case why are there mppt calculators and what about the information in the data sheet? Ignoring for the moment the issue of having 3 mppt controllers and just assume I buy a 100a unit, why would I spec this at 60/70a?
  17. Still deciding. It will definitely be something that I can angle but want to try and stay away from the triangle ones. I was basing this on the Nominal PV power on the data sheet - the 100/50 goes up to 700w and I have 1200w?
  18. Thanks Peter! I noticed that thread the other day so by solar isolator I do mean breakers and plan on using the same as you, DC MCB between the panel and the MPPT, labelled to each panel. Does this seem right?
  19. This is the only downside but yes, three holes (one already present) or going via the mushroom nearest the engine room. And those are the panels, hopefully get them on order today along with the rest of the equipment needed, that way I can start wiring all of the stuff inside, paint my boat roof and then fit the panels.
  20. Primarily cost - 3 100/30 controllers cost less than 1 100amp controller (the Victron in particular). I've read that it also maximises efficiency and, should anything go wrong with one, I've still got solar from the other two.
  21. Ok, it’s not actually that big at 1.2kw but I thought I’d create a thread mostly for the benefit of myself so that I can document what I’m doing and therefore, not forget things n I have limited knowledge of solar installs/12v systems from my campervan, the rest is entirely theoretical from reading/YouTube/12v boating Facebook group/this forum. The Plan I’m reaching the end of my interior fit out and I need to get the boat ready for continuous cruising sharpish thanks to a very tight deadline for starting a new job. The entire electrical system in the engine bay needs an overhaul so not being one to do things by half, I plan on rewiring as I go along. The solar will be 1200w (3x400w panels) feeding whatever LA battery bank I currently have in there (lithium in the near future but not right now). Equipment 400w solar panels (x3) 100/30 Victron MPPT controllers (x3) (Tick) Victron Lynx Power in bus bar Solar isolators (x3) Battery Isolator Shunt (?) 6mm solar cable MC4 Battery cable Solar brackets Roof glands (x3) Mega fuses Crimps/ferrules/lugs/heat shrink/label/crimping tool Inverter/charger DC2DC charger (?) Lithium Battery The list likely isn’t finished so feel free to mention if I’ve forgotten anything. I’m going to start assessing the space to fit everything today, pictures incoming. Please jump in with any critique/knowledge/emotional support!!
  22. I'd quite like to be able to see out though. Perhaps something removable.
  23. I can, as above, the bed is lower than the doors and it doesn't have locks/catches so can just open in an emergency.
  24. Talking of safety, I'm starting to think about curtains however would obviously need to keep material away from the flue, any nifty suggestions to cover the window behind the flue?
  25. Thank you! It's been a long old slog. I agree however that having an escape route is vital so I made sure the bed is lower than the door (even with the mattress on) and doesn't have any locks or catches, just push to open. Similarly the rear hatch is only lockable/unlockable from the inside to prevent getting trapped.
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