Puff Along

I really don't know, They mentioned they where having problems the day before I left.Im back Sunday so will look into it a bit more.I only said to them they other day how sweet the engine sounded. Big Mouth I should have kept my trap sut!!!!!!

I'm away at the moment, I haven't seen it. belongs to 2 ladies on our pontoon.They where told they need a new one...I was just trying to be helpful towards them.Facebook is good for some and not for others It's a great way to keep up with my Grandkids in Switzerland/America.

As said a friend asked and I said someone will know. As said a friend asked and I said someone will know. It's a Thorney Croft T80 based on a Mitsubushi K4 D so Mr Darth is correct anyone know of a Heat Exchanger for one please?

Looking for one for a friend in need!!! https://www.facebook.com/groups/boatscrapyarduk/permalink/1244958112809000/

BMC 1.8

Hi i'm looking at running heat in to the cabin of the engine.only a small 2 person cabin engine water pump is with in 6' of cabin bulkhead. TBH I dont think it need a radiator just Copper tubing under the windows to clear misting etc and to give some much needed heat for a Old Man. Any diagrams to be view d or ides please.Thanks in Anticipation [Sea going Boat not Canal]

Wow!!!!! I thought there would a list Like 1x1/2 ring / open ender 2 x 5/8'' 6 an 8 mill ring, socket set, 4 screwdrivers etc etc. Oh and a Hammer!!! But I will have a proper one and a rubber one!!! The only crows foot I have is around my eyes!!! I will have a sit down with a open tool box and work it out . Thanks anyway.

Is there a list of must have/carry onboard tools required for every nut bolt on a 1.8.I need to shed weight from my over flowing tool box.

Cheers John very little evidence of contamination in the 2 filters that where replaced.I will leave it alone for a couple of days ,Go back with a clear mind. Digest the thoughts of the members and work through it all again. But I will renew the fuel line from tank to engine.It is partly old rubber and copper.The mechanic has some Lloyd's Fuel Line in his garage so we will install that. Then start over. Thanks to everyone for their time and thoughts, I'm away for the month of May in the US as my Granddaughter is graduating from College. Might be able to get a couple of Steelhead an Coho Salmon as well!

How do I put on a video of the engine hu ting 1min30secs Would be a Pump Problem 🤔?

Right here we go!!! After 6 hours of bleeding ,cutting out .We had to revert to the dreaded easy start to get her to fire up We believe the New Injection Pump is faulty!!! I say new it was brand new [not a recon ] 8 months ago and it has done less than 20 hrs .Well I say we it should be Martin he got it running for 15 mins .Then it started hunting rvs up/down exactly what it did 4 weeks ago 7 miles out at Sea and I limped it back into the bay ,where I fished all day and it started stopped all good but I never to it over 5 Knots..I did this as I have a outboard for such cases. I believed the fuel was compromised with diesel bug .{Bit I always use diesel bug inhibitor] I remembered on my last engine it had a bad case of bug and the engine note sounded exactly the same. When I changed the filters they where clean the separator bowl had less than .5''of water in it. We checked and checked again the for air one the connections,Bleeding the bleed screws and injectors as we went.Martin Heated the heater plugs direct from a 115 amp starting battery,You name it he did it. Once started it will run ok then hunt it may pick the revs /then decrease up 2/3 times then cut out completely .It may run hunt then cut out, it is Very Random. I will put on a video [it may take a minute as it is on my phone not on the lap top yet] where you can hear the different engine notes but I couldn't catch the actual stalling of the engine on video. PS the Batteries are NOT Leisure as I said they are starting Batteries by Hancook XV110 MF Made July 2018

Yes it was new on the re con. HeTmater Plug new and heating voltage drops from 14.5 to 10 volts on instrumentation and have been multi meterd

If you mean Heater Plugs they where new on the re-con but as it was slow I got the ones that give out 2x power they where quoting 8 seconds i believe but it has been taking up to 90 seconds. Brand New 3 weeks ago.Changed it from a 1 bat 2 bat or both to a Tractor One and ON/OFF and the batteries are now inline.

I Know Not of BMS???/ as a Dyslexic i can tell you they are a expensive Driving School I had new contacts fitted and bench tested .Last month so that side of should be fine/[hopefully]

Now that I didn't know tbh I don't know a lot anyway.They may not be leisure I just thought with that amperage they looked leisure like. Something else to check out this afternoon .I think i may have the invoice for them in the boat paper work somewhere.

Hi Mr Darth Yes they are in Parallel now the battery switch either 1 or 2 or both was changed 2 months back to the Tractor type either ON or OFF. batteries wired in line. They are Leisure batteries. 110amps The last paragraph I will have to look into. Thanks for your time. Picture are to large of the solenoid it looked like it had been shorting out. I have cropped images on my phone so hopefully I can upload from that

I'm still having starting problems when starting from cold.Once fired up it's fine all day. It is a reconditioned engine ,It now has a new CAV injection pump as the one supplied was not fit for purpose.The seller purchased the new one and had it sent directly to me from the wholesaler. It never seems to spin over fast enough when cold. Batteries 2x110 amp are Fully Charged 4 years old. I had the starter looked at by a local specialist he renewed the solenoid as it showed signs of a lot of wear .I have a picture and will try to attach it. This however didn't fix the slowness of start. The guy who is helping me suggested there may be a power drop. So I have purchased so 50mm cables to run from batteries to starter. They have not yet been fitted as he has got the lug crimper at home and not down in Torquay. What someone asked is it the correct starter? Do 1.5 starters fit a 1.8 and are they the same Amps Output? If they are different this could be the cause. I also realise a recon is tight when newly refurbed I have put 30 hrs on the clock since fitting. Any thoughts would be most helpful. Thanks Nigel

Thanks for that Tony' You are like the Sage of BMC .here's Guv

Hi looking for a pr of B/W Gearbox Fluid lines an connectors in Imperial (believe 11/6").I have a leak and instead of a bodge job want to renew for peace of mind Cheers

Re Puffs 1.8 the time has come 12/15hrs use after reconditioning to re torque the Head and Tappets is there anything else to check/re tighten ? Any reading material of tolerances gladly received. Once that's sorted repitch the prop to gain 2/3/4/5 knots who know? it seems to be a total Suck It an See Area I know there are many ideas of what should happen re speed Hull x Length x Wieght etc etc etc but know one really can tell to you have done it then someone will say Oh You Should Have THIS!!!!

I just got this from Wikipedia .2nd Paragraph 1.8 litre engines[edit] The engine was enlarged again to 1.8 L (1,798 cc) in 1962. Bore was 80.2 mm (3.16 in) and stroke was still 89 mm (3.5 in), power varied by application with typically 94 bhp (70 kW) at 5,500 rpm in twin carburettor format and 85 bhp (63 kW) in single carburettor format as used in the Morris Marina.[4] The engine at first had a three-bearing crankshaft with a five-bearing version appearing in 1964. There was also a diesel version of this capacity, used in the Leyland Sherpa van with a power output of 56 bhp (42 kW) at 4,250 rpm, and built under license in Turkey for many years. It is still widely used on narrowboats on the canals of the UK.[citation needed]