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Puff Along

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Posts posted by Puff Along

  1. 12 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:

    If you use the engine's cab heater/calorifier take off I think it should work well, especially as it is a sea boat so you are likely to run longer and at higher power than a canal/inland boat. \i can't tell you where the take off points are so we need to know your engine make and model.

     

    If you do it this way you can almost certainly pipe it in car heater hose for ease.

    BMC 1.8 

  2. Hi i'm looking at running heat in to the cabin of the engine.only a small 2 person cabin engine water pump is with in 6' of cabin bulkhead.

    TBH I dont think it need a radiator just Copper tubing under the windows to clear misting etc and to give some much needed heat for a Old Man.

    Any diagrams to be view d or ides please.Thanks in Anticipation [Sea going Boat not Canal]

    Screenshot_20201130-213213_Gallery (3).jpg

  3. Wow!!!!! I thought there would a list Like 1x1/2 ring / open ender 2 x 5/8'' 6 an 8 mill ring, socket set, 4 screwdrivers etc etc.

    Oh and a Hammer!!! But I will have a proper one and a rubber one!!!

    The only crows foot I have is around my eyes!!!

    I will have a sit down with a open tool box and work it out .

    Thanks anyway.

  4. Cheers John very little evidence of contamination in the 2 filters that where replaced.I will leave it alone for a couple of days ,Go back with a clear mind. Digest the thoughts of the members and work through it all again. But I will renew the fuel line from tank to engine.It is partly old rubber and copper.The mechanic has some Lloyd's Fuel Line in his garage so we will install that. Then start over.

    Thanks to everyone for their time and thoughts, I'm away for the month of May in the US as my Granddaughter is graduating from College. Might be able to get a couple of Steelhead an Coho Salmon as well! 

  5. On 20/04/2022 at 18:29, Tony Brooks said:

    Just the heaters should not drop the battery voltage to 10V. The starter load will, but not the heaters. Modern heaters tend to draw a very high current quickly dropping to about 50 amps total for all four plugs. That 10V makes me suspect a battery problem or resistance in cables, but not the glow plug cable. Either in the negatives or between battery positive and wherever the voltmeter is connected.  If you are using a voltmeter on a glow plug then it could be a cable or switch problem but that does not square with the low cranking speed unless the problem is in the master switch.

     

  6. Right here we go!!! After 6 hours of bleeding ,cutting out .We had to revert to the dreaded easy start to get her to fire up We believe the New Injection Pump is faulty!!! I say new it was brand new [not a recon ] 8 months ago and  it has done less than 20 hrs .Well I say we it should be Martin he got it running for 15 mins .Then it started hunting rvs up/down exactly what it did 4 weeks ago 7 miles out at Sea and I limped it back into the bay ,where I fished all day and it started stopped all good but I never to it over 5 Knots..I did this as I have a outboard for such cases.

    I believed the fuel was compromised with diesel bug .{Bit I always use diesel bug inhibitor]  I remembered on my last engine it had a bad case of bug and the engine note sounded exactly the same. When I changed the filters they where clean the separator bowl had less than .5''of water in it. 

    We checked and checked again the for air one the connections,Bleeding the bleed screws and injectors as we went.Martin Heated the heater plugs direct from a 115 amp starting battery,You name it he did it.

    Once started it will run ok then hunt it may pick the revs /then decrease up 2/3 times then cut out completely .It may run hunt then cut out, it is Very Random.

    I will put on a video [it may take a minute as it is on my phone not on the lap top yet] where you can hear the different engine notes but I couldn't catch the actual stalling of the engine on video.

    PS the Batteries are NOT Leisure as I said they are starting Batteries by Hancook XV110 MF   Made July 2018 

  7. On 20/04/2022 at 18:29, Tony Brooks said:

    Just the heaters should not drop the battery voltage to 10V. The starter load will, but not the heaters. Modern heaters tend to draw a very high current quickly dropping to about 50 amps total for all four plugs. That 10V makes me suspect a battery problem or resistance in cables, but not the glow plug cable. Either in the negatives or between battery positive and wherever the voltmeter is connected.  If you are using a voltmeter on a glow plug then it could be a cable or switch problem but that does not square with the low cranking speed unless the problem is in the master switch.

     

  8. 13 hours ago, john.k said:

    A recond engine may be very tight.......at least a few hundred hours running to free up.........the starter pictured is new ,dont know if thats the problem one.

    Yes it was new on the re con.

    20 hours ago, Slim said:

    OK. When you energise the heater plugs do they physically ģet warm? Do you have a volt meter in the circuit and does the voltage drop down to about 10 volts? I'm trying to determine whether  the heater plugs are actually working . You still haven't answered whether when trying to start the engine cold it turns over slowly.  My 1.8 will eventually start from cold even if I ďoñ't energise the heater plugs but it's  a long slog.

     

     

     

    HeTmater Plug new and heating voltage drops from 14.5 to 10 volts on instrumentation and have been multi meterd

  9. 36 minutes ago, Slim said:

    You haven't mentioned heaters. Is the engine reluctant to turn over or just fire.?

    If you mean Heater Plugs they where new on the re-con but as it was slow I got the ones that give out 2x power they where quoting 8 seconds i believe but it has been taking up to 90 seconds.

     

    2 minutes ago, StephenA said:

     

    Battery Master Switch.....

    Brand New 3 weeks ago.Changed it from a 1 bat 2 bat or both to a Tractor One and ON/OFF and the batteries are now inline.

  10. 45 minutes ago, StephenA said:

    have you checked your BMS?

    I Know Not of BMS???/  as a Dyslexic i can tell you they are a expensive Driving School  

    4 hours ago, Tracy D'arth said:

    The contacts on that solenoid are fine if a bit off line. They always look like that, they are switching hundreds of amps every time you start. 

    To all intents the starter motor is a dead short when you first turn it on!

    I had new

    contacts fitted and bench tested .Last month so that side of should be fine/[hopefully]

  11. Now that I didn't know tbh I don't know a lot anyway.They may not be leisure I just thought with that amperage they looked leisure like. Something else to check out this afternoon .I think i may have the invoice for them in the boat paper work somewhere.

     

  12. Hi Mr Darth

    Yes they are in Parallel now the battery switch either 1 or 2 or both was changed 2 months back to the Tractor type either ON or OFF. batteries wired in line.

    They are Leisure batteries. 110amps

    The last paragraph I will have to look into.

    Thanks for your time.

    Picture are to large of the solenoid it looked like it had been shorting out.

    I have cropped images on my phone so hopefully I can upload from that

    Screenshot_20220419-123326_Camera.jpg.82db2667b5d8068155d589a50dbcbde7.jpgScreenshot_20220419-123126_Gallery.jpg.a8fe9172f605ca42c4ee8625553fe30f.jpg

  13.  

    I'm still having starting problems when starting from cold.Once fired up it's fine all day.

    It is a reconditioned engine ,It now has a new CAV injection pump as the one supplied was not fit for purpose.The seller purchased the new one and had it sent directly to me from the wholesaler.

    It never seems to spin over fast enough when cold. Batteries 2x110 amp are Fully Charged 4 years old.

    I had the starter looked at by a local specialist he renewed the solenoid as it showed signs of a lot of wear .I have a picture and will try to attach it.

    This however didn't fix the slowness of start.

    The guy who is helping me suggested there may be a power drop.

    So I have purchased so 50mm cables to run from batteries to starter.

    They have not yet been fitted as he has got the lug crimper at home and not down in Torquay.

    What someone asked is it the correct starter? 

    Do 1.5 starters fit a 1.8 and are they the same Amps Output?

    If they are different this could be the cause.

    I also realise a recon is tight when newly refurbed I have put 30 hrs on the clock since fitting.

    Any thoughts would be most helpful.

    Thanks Nigel

  14. Re Puffs 1.8 the time has come 12/15hrs use  after reconditioning to re torque the Head and Tappets is there anything else to check/re tighten ? Any reading material of tolerances gladly received.

    Once that's sorted repitch the prop to gain 2/3/4/5 knots who know? it seems to be a total Suck It an See Area I know there are many ideas of what should happen re speed Hull x Length x Wieght etc etc etc but know one really can tell to you have done it then someone will say Oh You Should Have THIS!!!!

  15. I just  got this from Wikipedia .2nd Paragraph

     

     

    1.8 litre engines[edit]

    The engine was enlarged again to 1.8 L (1,798 cc) in 1962. Bore was 80.2 mm (3.16 in) and stroke was still 89 mm (3.5 in), power varied by application with typically 94 bhp (70 kW) at 5,500 rpm in twin carburettor format and 85 bhp (63 kW) in single carburettor format as used in the Morris Marina.[4] The engine at first had a three-bearing crankshaft with a five-bearing version appearing in 1964.

    There was also a diesel version of this capacity, used in the Leyland Sherpa van with a power output of 56 bhp (42 kW) at 4,250 rpm, and built under license in Turkey for many years. It is still widely used on narrowboats on the canals of the UK.[citation needed]

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