Paul Conroy

Thanks. I did use a premade hose with the 3/8 inch ferrules and appropriate adaptors for the return, but could I really have just flared the copper and used a hose lip? Didn't think BSS allowed this and required compression fittings. Anyway, all comments much appreciated and it is a done job. Just annoyed with myself that I did not manage to sort it all myself and whilst I love my new Beta, I found the information provided in their manual a bit limited. Thanks, Paul

Hi Tracy, I had them originally, and did manage to reuse one of them using a coupler, but the 8mm ones seem only to be available from Beta at a price! This annoyed me as I had the pipe, the hose but could not find out what fitting I could use to connect them. Maybe I should just chill out and buy from Beta!

Hi all, I recently replaced my old narrowboat engine with a new Beta 38. I managed to get the old engine out and the new engine in and aligned myself but there were a couple of things I could not do and had to get help. One of these really annoyed me as it should have been straightforward but I struggled and this was the diesel lines. My old engine used flexible feeds with 3/8 inch spigots and a rather small diameter copper return pipe (not sure what, around 4mm o.d). Anyway, the new lines required 8mm connections and whilst I could get 8mm copper and 8mm flexible hose, I could find nothing on how to make up hoses that would comply with the BSS. I gave up in the end and got my local boat mechanic to make up the hoses (and they leak!). This was very frustrating and I would love to know how I could have made the hoses myself. Thank you for any insights

Thanks all for this good advice. To answer one or two points: 1. The tank in my photos is the highest point in the engine coolant system, though the top cap is only about 10cm above the engine coolant filler cap 2. The engine filler has a proper radiator cap, but I do need to look a bit closer to check it seats properly and is operating as such 3. I did ask Beta about fitting one of their expansion tanks before I thought about doing anything to this skin tank expansion vessel, as my calorifier pipework is about the same height at the high point as the Beta 38 engine filler will be. They thought it would probably be unecessary and I have venting points on this to release any tapped air 4. I am sure my marine engineer will also be able to advise, but I am keen to understand the issues and I may well do some of this plumbing myself 5. I am tempted now to remove the expansion tank and have a suitable air bleed valve fitted to the skin tank Anyway, I have had lots of insightful comments and can now make an informed decision as to what to do. Thankyou, Paul

Jen, that is great information. Thankyou! p.s. not sure what my thermostat operating temperature. I realise that I better check it - I was a bit oblivious to the fact that in a properly cooled system, it is the thermostat that controls the running temp!

Thanks for this advice. Just for clarification, the new engine will be a Beta 38 and this little tank connects directly to the top of the skin tank. It is keel cooled. Regards, Paul

Hi. My current narrow boat engine cooling arrangement comprises of two skin tanks on opposite sides of the engine bay. They are typical vertically mounted tanks, of about 5 sq.ft surface area each. They work fine with my current engine, a Perkins P3.152 (if anything a bit too well as the temp gauge rarely gets above about 70 degrees). However, one of the tanks has a small expansion vessel fitted to the top corner, nearest the bulkhead and it has an overflow pipe by the vessel filler cap, leading back down to the bilge. My basic question is whether or not this is a good system? It seems so to me as it would presumably vent any air. However, I am fitting a new engine due to issues with the old and I am concerned the vessel is a bit small and may overflow if the new engine runs hotter and with a more powerful pump. I guess it is a case of trying it out and changing things if necessary, but would appreciate advice from others. Thanks, Paul

Excellent. Much appreciated. Once again, thanks everyone for sharing your expertise

Lots of good advice - it's much appreciated. JohnB, I am a novice with regard to this topic - any chance of a sketch? Thanks all

Thanks everyone. Great advice.

Thankyou, and did you need to do anything to stop vibration transmitting through to the cabin other than the drive plate?

Hi, my narrowboat has a 1960's Perkins P3.152 engine. It has had various issues since I got the boat last year, but that's another story. Anyway, the old engine mounts were worn and have been replaced, but the engine still shakes (fine at tick over, bad at mid-range) and the vibration inside the boat is pretty harsh. I realise that there may be a number of causes other than the mounts and alignment and compression have been checked. However, I have alternative advice from two engineers - both of whose views I respect - with one saying that an old heavy engine like this is best solid mounted. Can anyone with experience of this engine type tell me what they found to be the best solution? Thanks, Paul