RMK

Alex Wroe, (maybe Alec) was up near Goole for a while. He built boats for a few fitters and his own customers. Nice fellow used sage as I remember him showing me many, many years ago, told me to do my books using sage, much easier. His boats were nice enough, it was a very tight workshop he had when I saw him, but he was having to move I think, not sure what happened to him after that. I am going back to 89/90 perhaps. Built some for Jaris Boatbuilders, they used primarily Liverpool Boats for shells as did Bridgewater. But they needed more and the overflow went to Wroe.

Do you have qualifications ? (I'm not asking to see any) 'Novice' is a harsh word, I agree, so I'll withdraw that. _____________ Further to the thread. Just asking, are people on this forum allowed a point of view ? if yes, then that is what we are giving, nothing more. Not here to upset people, just here to give a view. Oh and yes.. The 5000 is indeed a fantastic piece of work.

Until inspected, yes. Even if inspected and found to be good, then lets say a ceiling of 35,000. But this highlights the point. It will sell for whatever someone will pay and we're not saying it shouldn't. Just saying we wouldn't.

Certainly a boaters/novice point of view you have.. Nothing wrong with that and we expect it. There are many enthusiasts around building, most are hobbyist can't be classed as anything more, not certificated in any way, shape or form. But there are the exceptions, those that started out by being part of 'the trade', also still in the trade but enthusiasts too, we'd put ourselves there. But you have to have credentials, skills and indeed enthusiasm. But enthusiasm alone is not a skill.

I'm fully aware of who they are. Barrat's have been building houses for over sixty years, I still wouldn't buy one. Let me say, we're not calling this boat out as anything other than, just another boat (good or bad). It looks good, lines are probably filler as per other thread, engine is good etc. Just not worth that money, to us anyway.

Hi Chris. I thought it would be your son to be honest, your an old geezer after all Yes we're still in the trade. As for our kid, well email me Look forward to hearing from you. Check our first post to find the email if you haven't already got it.

What is it's pedigree ? What certification did the builder have ? Were they even coded welders (doubtful) ? From a boaters point of view (yours), this ( the boat) may be something to be regarded as great. But from a fabricator/builders point of view, it's just another boat that under inspection, will probably turn up all sorts of issues. A 'boatbuilder' has to be a fabricator and welder first, there is no such thing as a boatbuilder without those credentials. Certification goes a long way, as does welding done by certificated welders (coded). To most boaters on here and we do understand that more or less all are boaters, ie; not in the trade. Then we would say learn, before commenting. Just to be clear, the vast majority of narrow-boat builders are not certificated for anything in the steel fabrication trade. Ask for sight of certificates and you'll soon find out. If that was brought in as a standard requirement (and it should be), you would see a lot of names, those you boaters think are good, just fade away, or start the trade training & courses, they should have already taken, probably years ago. It would also bring prices down to the norm rather than inflated by, guess who..... boaters.. Now OP. The boat looks o.k. but is £20-30,000 overpriced (at least, probably more). But as has been said here already, in today's market, well what you are willing to pay is the price of the boat. That makes it harder for the next buyer of any boat though. Because you boaters are your own worst enemy really. Get it inspected and have them run that meter, for more than a few minutes, in more than just a few places. Good luck with it anyway.

What we tell customers, "prior to cruising, turn the remote greaser slowly and carefully until you feel resistance, once you feel resistance, do one quarter turn more, then your good to go" . But that's from new don't forget, so age will make a difference. Really you should only have to do that once maybe twice in a full day's cruising (if that). But again, age will make a difference. I feel you have either the wrong size packing, plus probably (from the pic) too much of it and perhaps have over greased. I've not read through the thread, so if all that has been cleared up, then good. Other perhaps is alignment, but I did see the part that said you can hand turn the prop, so it doesn't sound like the alignment, unless its a struggle to turn the prop. Packing should really be cuts of half the diameter of the shaft (usually a couple of inches or so), slide in top, then bottom, right then left, overlapping joins. Plus 3 max, I use 2 sets as described. Use the right size packing and do not over grease. Resistance and then one quarter turn more.

John Pope was the last owner of the Creighton name, mold's etc. Went out of business in the 90's sometime. He was a boat surveyor prior to that, not sure if that is what he went back too after it went.

We know -70- was a builder and yes you can use the type of gen set he is talking about easily. Of course they're not designed for that, but that is boats in a nutshell. I would say especially for those that can't afford the silly priced ones and they are silly prices. It was a good explanation of the sound proofing other than thicker would be to our spec. We would put it on the stern deck built into seating, have done this many times on wide beams. It isn't going to be quiet as such, but within guidelines and really we would recommend only when out and about. Shore hookup is a must really for what the owner needs. Or silly money, if they want to use it regularly. As to the ballast problem and that is a big problem there looking at that photo. Taking the floor up is the only way to do this properly, as Chris said. Would love to know how this boat turned out. I know Chris, he uses one of our old pics, but is entitled to, he bought enough shells from us. Hi Chris, you knew my brother pretty well. Do you still build ? (regards Barry)

As you may have deemed from my post, or not perhaps.. It is a big saving to make your own (big saving), provided you use your own labour. You seem to be related to the fabrication industry, I imagine you pay reasonable prices for steel. However, it is fine for a builder to produce sizes and details at the drop of a hat, as I did in my post, plus it would be built in short time, lets face it, it would have to be, there would be no money in it.. ;) It's not to be taken on too lightly. If you do want to go ahead 'pm' me when your ready, but not before.. I'll gladly provide sheet sizes, fold details, simple plans etc, even the build process that will get you from the stern to bow pretty fast. Bow wise, we can give written/plan instruction, but even with that, it ain't easy. You'll need a short swim and bow for a boat that size (as in the link I did), a little twin cylinder diesel (inboard) although they're not cheap if your not in the trade, plus bits (I wouldn't help with those), but there are plenty of places about. My advice, just think very carefully first, it would take us day's (literally) to build the one you see in the pic, but on your own without the facilities, then it's very hard work. Oh, and 25ft is the shortest you'll want to go, even that these days is too short to bother with steel wise (imo). The middle bit is easy and cheap (comparatively), so think on. Longer perhaps.. Regards. RMK

Hi Dave 25ft https://www.gumtree.com/p/boats-kayaks-jet-skis/25ft-steel-narrowboat-lady-jane-bss-good-dayboat-or-project-£10000-ono-07388-551593/1319708335 Scroll down page a little. This 25ft is a good example, only thing they have done is extend the cabin, which means folded can only go so far, see below. But it isn't too hard to do the extended cabin. Probably looking at a 17-18ft cabin so not bad. There is one problem with a narrowboat, I'll come to that soon. Cabin tops can be folded in out of 4x2 cut to whatever cabin size you want (3.34 blah blah, depends on you). Hull sides folded too 2.5x1.2 to incorporate gunnels. Arse end,, sorry 'stern'.. ;) can be rolled if you want round, could go easy and square it off, but round is easy so don't cut the corner. Bulkheads are common sense as are most things steel narrowboat, inc strengthening etc. Rolling the 1"x1" box section for the roof supports (I'd say 3" rise will do), is not a problem. It certainly isn't rocket science by any means, but if you have fabrication skills, then it should be possible. Welding wise, dye pen 2' up from the base all welds, 'V' that base and do the best job on it plenty of it (you understand what I mean by that). Handrails etc, just bog standard will do (cruiser style) round or box either. Now the problem.. it's the Bow, this is not easy and can make or break your boat, bow & returns on a nb can be a nightmare for those not familiar, so beware. Building your own will save you a small fortune and not many shell builders would even bother with a shell build at just 25ft. Just keep asking if you decide to go ahead.. :)

Snap.

Thanks for that.

We found this in our records and would very much like the full version of the video to go to the family if possible. So if you know these people and the surname, the email address to contact is in the video details. Thank you. Couldn't think of anywhere else to link it, not many canal forums around. (not sure how you insert yt link, tried insert from irl, didn't work) The link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WTtn_Tg2pLQ