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  1. Thanks all, @NewCanalBoy, apparently they go to like 72 or 73 foot ? I'm OK with 70, next build will be a sail away 60 foot, that I I'm intending to keep lol.. We shall see.
  2. Been trying too... Lol me phone won't let me... My laptop is in for repair so having to use this bloody phone lol... I have tried to add a really bad pic, see if it works... The diagram I drew with a crayon of course lol was of the Internet, at the end of the system I would add the header tank.
  3. Hi all, I'm Carl I'm new to the forum speaking wise but been taking advice for a few years now of other people's posts... I'm 36 years young ? I'm on my 2md narrowboat first was a 60 foot trad back (had to sell due to divorce ??) current boat is a 70 foot cruiser stern made by abc in 1993. I have been refurbishing it since 2016, painted it last year, cruised in it for the first time this year (last month) did the 4 counties and loved every minute of it ? Pleased to meet you all Carl
  4. Hi all, I'm looking to re do my back boiler system and I could use some help... I have a squirrel with back boiler already fitted. It will have just 2 rads on it, I have a jabsco circ pump, and I have a self bleeding valve to be fitted at the back of the fire. The original set up was half copper 22mm. Then they added a rad with 15mm plastic, also only added water so the rads are rotten inside so a refit is in order. If someone could do me a very basic diagram of what where, preferably the pipes all on the bottom as I can't hide the pipes under the gunwals.... I am thinking top outlet out the boiler has the self bleed valve (was there originally) then that feeds into the first radiator bottom right then 22mm main pipe with 15mm into the rads by the way. And then same into the next radiator, then at the bow of the boat elbow small straight then elbow (to make it return lol) and then that part into the left side of each radiator then into the bottom of the boiler. At the bow part I would add the header tank, its the grey box type one with 2 outlets, I was thinking add 1 pipe from the header into the bottom pipe and one into the top pipe? Sorry I can't do a drawing I can't sus it out on my phone at the moment. Appreciate all the help ?
  5. I have been hoping the whole time the cable was to blame, but when a hire boat mechanic says no its something different (they also repair other boats BTW) it makes you believe something else is wrong! I shall have a day off tomorrow then I think, try change the cable of I can get one at the junction... Or make a bodge lol to get me back... Thanks a bunch for your help
  6. Hi Dave, I think the lever moves like say another 10mm more with the cable off... That mechanic said it didnt make a difference... Although I may beg to differ... I shall change the oil and try get into the back of the controller tomorrow am... I'm at Tixall wide, so not far from home (Shardlow) but would hope I can sort myself without paying 500 quid... Forgot to mention the cable on the gearbox end is extended to its maximum.... Will need to make any adjustments on the lever end
  7. I believe this is the case.. However he has parts laying around he said he would change a clutch plate for free as he has an old one knocking about. We shall see... As for other questions, the oil in it looks very clean yet thin so I will put some 10/40 in it tomorrow (asked the gearbox guy he said its OK oil) As for the pulling the lever I had a hire boat mechanic have a look first thing he did was that and he said it wasn't quit engaging... Although the prop was spinning... I shall have a play tomorrow, I need to have the controller apart and adjust from there too... See what happens.. Oil change in the morning, then see what happens...
  8. No idea why that posted your reply.... My phone is being odd.. Lol
  9. Hi hider, thanks for the reply, so I have thought about the travel before I have adjusted the lever to almost as far on the cable as I can (engine side only) , there is still a bit more travel remaining. Oddly if I put it in reverse and watch the cable it does move slightly more when I give it some revs... We have a gearbox mechanic in trent lock at long Eaton gladly, I contacted him today he will completely rebuild my box for £360... But he advised a oil change as I don't know what's in it... Best case I sort it with a oil change... Worse case the case continues ?? I'm told these boxes are bomb proof, most of the issues are caused by worn seals or oil pump, or clutch or clutches.. ? There may still be hope fingers crossed?
  10. Hi guys, yeah checked the oil... At the point of replacing it tomorrow incase the oil that's in it is knackered. Carl Forgot to mention it is a hydraulic box yes.
  11. Hi all, new to the forum, but been reading your advice on here for years... So now I have a problem I can't find an answer to so thought best to join up, introduce myself and ask the question ? so I'm Carl have a 70ft narrowboat based in Shardlow.. That's the boring bit lol.. Next bit I have a Isuzu marine 38hp with a prm 160d2 gearbox. Currently we are 80% of the way around the 4 counties ring, I started getting issues with my gearbox a week or so ago, in forward gear no issues at all. When the boat is cold or in the morning like not long after setting off all is well, then suddenly a hire boat appears on the wrong side of the canal and I go for reverse to stop myself and nothing happens... I can see wash so the prop is turning so its like the gear has not engaged fully. Then I give it more power and poof... In gear and I stop... In other occasions it just revs... Then clunk in it goes... So I have got used to the neutral then reverse then wait for the clunk then go full reverse... This is problematic when going into locks or on blind bends as you may imagine.... I have checked everywhere, even called midland swindlers and no one is telling me what the issue could be, or how to diagnose the issue. I am quite handy in that I will try fix anything to a point so would like to know if I can sort it myself! Any advice would be appreciated P. S cables and levers all good. Many thanks Carl
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