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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble


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  • Boat Name
    Lazy Days
  • Boat Location
    West London

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  1. The alternator pulley is 2.5" so that will give me a ratio of approx 1:4.7 using a 12" drive pulley. I have no idea what RPM I usually cruise at but it will be low. 400rpm? so 200 at the camshaft will give approx 938 at the alternator.
  2. Thanks looks like some good options there Do you think this will be a big enough of a step up? or would I need to go further with another set of pulleys? or a more suitable alternator if there is such a thing
  3. Hi All, My Lister SR3 alternator doesn't produce any current at low revs so I would like to upgrade the pulley to get it spinning faster. I think a 12" will just fit on the end of the shaft. The alternator will then have to be mounted forward of its current position. Is this a good plan? Where can I source pulleys (12, 11 inch) for this? the shaft is 1.5" Thanks
  4. Great so I've got a good design now, other than having separate circuits for heating and water. Thanks all
  5. What are the advantages of a two pipe vs one pipe system? Yes - I'd imagine a better one than the Alde.
  6. That's good because there are a few copper and brass parts, but mostly plastic pipes. I also assume the calorifier is copper, and the radiators steel. Great thanks!
  7. Hopefully that should be ok - as the Alde will only really be used if the Webasto breaks down. I've added a balance valve on the flow of the Alde to reduce the water circulating through it rather than the end radiator? I guess it also has an advantage of adding extra capacity for Webasto to work with too. Unfortunately a small section of the pipework is inaccesible without removing the shower.
  8. I've kind of drawn it in plan. Calorifier is starboard and the radiator opposite port. Both in the galley at stern end. Pipework currently both sides, but in my proposed I've kept it to one side.
  9. Yes it likely would be a bit of a pain, but would be a lot simpler to install...
  10. I believe so yes, might have the flow and return the wrong way around but that is what it looks like. Thats a good point. Do I need a an isolation valve on the flow and return or just one? If just one would the expansion tank still work for both? I was thinking I would just adjust the valves on the radiators themselves?
  11. Hello, I would like to install a Webasto boiler - can I also keep an Alde Comfort 2928 in the circuit as a backup? as shown in the diagram below? Will the Alde Expansion Tank work for both systems? Many thanks, Dave
  12. I would be working with about 7 - 11" clearance so sounds like a double wall may work for this. Do you happen to have any links or details of the parts you used for this? I still haven't really found information relating to the double wall through the roof except for the kits.
  13. The reason I thought I would likely need a section of 4" double wall is I need to route the flue close to a window / blind. I guess this is part that confuses me - would I then pass this into a 6" roof collar? which a chimney attaches to as normal? Alternatively could I use a single wall - and put exhaust wrap for protection?
  14. The Salamander narrowboat flue kit is £585! Which is more than the Hobbit stove it goes with. Is this normal / to be expected? https://salamanderstoves.com/product/canal-boat-small-stove-kit/ Can anyone point me to a more cost effective solution? I think I will need a twin wall section as the flue will pass close to a window and walkway. Could I for instance source the complete kit from here: https://www.fluesupplies.com/twin-wall-insulated/4-inch-system.html Or should I be looking at something like this? https://www.limekilnchandlers.co.uk/multifuel-fires-fitting-kit.html Thanks
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