B2019

I got two old pairs of tyre's from the back of old kwitfit today and tied them to either end of the boat. Problem solved. Works brilliantly. Many thanks.

I see. Yeah I don't use any fenders.

My boat seems to move a lot when moored up especially when some boats go by too fast and it sometimes knocks against the side. I use two ropes at a 45 degree angle with mooring pins. Any ideas on how to reduce movement? Is using springs good idea?

Hi boaters, I've had a look at my shower and bilge pump and seen I've got no non return valve on the pipes. My bilge pump outlet is quite close to the water ( 8 inches) and just want to be on the safe side. Any recommendations of return valves to use and where to place them on the outlet pipes?

35 foot low stern narrowboat. Sabb GG engine.

Yeah this boat won't do tidal rivers. Not even going to attempt it. Had a little bit of wind the other day. Was on full speed to get it out of the uphill bit.

Hi boaters, Just had a couple of questions: 1. I've been looking at the canal map by CRT and the Open Canal map app. Are the little blue rivers on Open Canal mean they are navigable as they are not shown on the CRT map? 2. I've been told by many boaters and engineers not to take my boat on tidal rivers as the engine won't kick out enough hp ( 10bhp). I'm a bit nervous about suddenly coming across a tidal river. Any helps or tips on how to avoid them? Thanks

Hopefully we can remove this good awful directive once we leave the European Union? 126 pages ?. You could it up in a 10 page document max...

I agree, however I've spoken to two surveyors who stated the RCD only applies to the boats first year on the water then the BSS is needed after that. I can only go by what they have said

Well all my insurance states: ...... is constructed of fibreglass, aluminium or steel and does not exceed 80ft in length. • The permanent home mooring of ...... is in the United Kingdom. • ...Will be maintained in a proper state of repair and seaworthiness, and in the case of trailers, roadworthiness, and will exercise due care and diligence in safeguarding your boat and property. • You possess a current Canal & River Trust or Environment Agency Licence, or the equivalent Licence from the local Navigation Authority as appropriate, and a current Boat Safety Certificate. In addition, if ........ is over 30 years old and over 23ft in length, you have in your possession a survey report not more than five years old from a qualified surveyor, with all recommendations complied with. It states nothing about an RCD or RCD compliance within the terms so it doesn't matter.

This is all the RCD says about gas systems: 5.5. Gas system Gas systems for domestic use shall be of the vapour-withdrawal type and shall be designed and installed so as to avoid leaks and the risk of explosion and becapable of being tested for leaks. Materials and components shall be suitable for the specific gas used to withstand the stresses and exposures found in the marine environment. Each gas appliance intended by the manufacturer for the application for which it is used shall be so installed in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. Each gas-consuming appliance must be supplied by a separate branch of the distributionsystem, and each appliance must be controlled by a separate closing device. Adequate ventilation must be provided to prevent hazards from leaks and products of combustion. All watercraft with a permanently installed gas system shall be fitted with an enclosure to contain all gas cylinders. The enclosure shall be separated from the living quarters, accessible only from the outside and ventilated to the outside so that any escaping gas drains overboard. In particular, any permanently installed gas system shall be tested after installation.

Well I'm not actually changing anything that the previous owner had fitted at the point of sale. I'm just fixing things but making no major changes. At the point of sale it had an oven, gas bottle and connection so the I'm not legally liable if a new connection/ gas box is connected. The responsibility lies on the previous owner as long as I get the gas connection certified by a gas engineer. I've got loads of pictures of the boat on the day of sale to prove that I've not changed anything, just made it BSS compliant and as safe as possible.

The RCD is a really difficult area. When I bought the boat it was fitted with an old oven, gas bottle and container but it was not BSS compliant so it was removed. Now because it originally had a gas installation when I bought it would not constitute a major change and thus not effect the RCD. The RCD only applies to the first year the boat goes on water/ the first person whom puts the boat on the market. So with relevant BSS or gas engineer certificate all should be fine.

Perfect. I'm going to create the locker and get gas engineer to do fittings, I'm not touching that!

I see... I've just looked at BSS guidelines.. I could create a wooden box with FRP lining. Wood will be drilled into but covered with FRP inside so you can't even see holes.

How about buying this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LPG-GAS-BOTTLE-STORAGE-CONTAINER-13-KG-CAMPING-CARAVAN-BUILDING-HEATING/171510954283?pageci=93909c6a-5c55-4cd1-baba-d7c662c035b8&epid=1254957136 Drilling it to the boat and adapting it( vent and outlet pipe etc)?

Hi boaters, My boat doesn't have a locker or oven in it. I've been quoted £500+ for welding a new box to the boat not including gas fitting. Any cheaper ways of doing it? Such as wooden box with metal inside lining and outlet pipe/vent?

I know what you mean. It's probably best for me to go to an engineer to fit a generator storage box. Takes away some liability on my part if anything happens.

I might have two on the ceiling but no fan has been connected.

Looks good. I guess its just a case of removing it and putting it in your car every three years during the examination.

Yes the door has no air vent. It only has one air vent in the boat. The BSS requirements- Portable petrol tanks which are not connected to the engine must be stored in the open where any leaked petrol would flowoverboard unimpeded, or in a suitable locker. Any locker used to store portable petrol tanks must be: • drained to the outside of the hull from, at, or close to the bottom of the locker; and, • secure and constructed of a material of the required thickness, in good condition; and, • free from objectsthat could block the drain, damage the petrol tank or cause petrol vapour to ignite; and, • fuel‐tight to an equal or greater height that the top of the cap for the petrol tank; and, • self‐draining and the drain hole must have a minimum internal diameter of 12mm (½in) and must not be blocked; and, The locker must not open into any engine, battery or electrical equipmentspace. The drain line material including connections must be complete and in So basically just a 12mm hole in the box that drains into the river....

I'm going to create/adapt a metal box whereby two sides flip down meaning I don't needs to move it and just keep it locked in there. I am also going to put some seals on the stern door to make sure no fumes can enter the boat whilst running the generator.

I'm going to buy a metal lockable container and drill in to the stern. I drive a lot so I will pop to the station every now and then and only store 5 litres at a time. I will make sure the box is able to hold the fuel container as well. Gas container will be at the bow. Where I will store it is separated from the rest of the boat. I will also invest in another carbon monoxide alarm as well to be on the safe side.

I've had a look around and at other posts on CW and everyone is saying get a Honda EU 2.0i but they are on the expensive side. I've got three batteries and two solar panels. My power demands are : one water pump, one shower pump, lED lights, charge laptop and phone, run work printer and will eventually buy a 12 volt telly. Any advice on a good cheap petrol generator? My budget is around £500 for a generator and multi charger controller ( as someone suggested earlier).

Hi boaters, I've got three batteries and two solar panels. Any advice on how to charge batteries by a generator ( how to wire up as well) and what generator to buy?