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RickS

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Everything posted by RickS

  1. Thanks Ditchcrawler. Actually thats a nice one Interesting, thanks Ray
  2. Thanks Mike. Already got something similar with magnetic feet that i used through the Braunston tunnel - twice. just wanted something more permanent, plus I've bought it now! Exactly that Puffling, thanks. Midlands mentions about the wiring so was aware, but thanks for the heads up. Some sort of bracket is favourite Thanks for that BEngo. I get it now. The foot step I was calling something else - it was the heart shaped bit that threw me. Tap bracket obvious - when you point it out to me 😃
  3. Thanks Alan. Thinking about it some more I'm not sure that will work unless I mount it on the top, which I don't want to do. Mounting on the front with a longer bolt will mean it wont have a lot of tilt - I think I think I am getting what you mean David, but I don't think I will have any backwards tilt left in the bracket that way. I do see what you are saying Paul but concerned tat it will just fill up with water Thats a thought, thanks Tracy
  4. Thanks Jen, good point. I have added a picture above Did think of a longer bolt, but it's quite thick and would seem possible overkill to drill such a big hole in the board. tap bracket ? heart-shaped foot steps ? Not following I'm afraid Certainly not buying another light - where I am moored, tunnels are, sooner or later an inevitability. Nice suggestions 🙂
  5. I have a new cratch board, and a new tunnel light (not LED). The bolt on the light mounting is quite short and wouldn't be long enough to get through the cratch board. I don't really want to mount the thing on a bog standard right-angle bracket which then screws on the cratch board, but can't think of anything else. Any suggestions? Thanks Edit: added picture of light
  6. OK thanks Alan. I am going to sound quite dim now but going to ask anyway 🙂 At the moment, the cable carrying the current that was supplying the extension lead debacle is showing 13.4 volts on the multimeter - this is the same as is showing on the battery charger unit. Why are they the same if there is voltage drop - I know no load is being applied at the moment but the voltage is there to be used ?
  7. Thanks Alan. Lightbulb just flicked on! If the cabling is behind the wall linings, I can just disconnect and leave it there, resupplying via under-gunwale trunking. Doh!
  8. You're right Tony, I should have explained myself better. There are cables running under the gunwales - amongst other things - so that would present few problems. It's when the odd cable runs into the wall lining i have no idea whether it stays there or reappears under the gunwales. The insulation is polystyrene so I appreciate the possible issue with PVC, ideally None of the cable would be anywhere near the insulation - although there are a few wall lights in the saloon which do have their cables running behind the lining, and presumably the ceiling lights must do as well
  9. Poor choice of words on my part. I meant separate 12 volt supply with it's own fuse box - don't know if that would be described as 'proper'. What has been done to it after it has left the fuse box is a bit of a mess. The run of cable from the batteries to the location of the new sockets is 12 metres - so 24 metres in total. I tried to allow for the bends and twists so 12 m is as near as makes no matter. As I mentioned before, one 12 volt socket to run a 65W laptop charger, the other one to run a twin USB supply - one at 2.1 amps, the other at 1 amp - although if both are used they both run at 1 amp. Does this help with ascertaining the cable size or is more info needed?
  10. Probably right, I'm just not sure how I would get new cables through without taking the wall linings down - and that's not happening at this time of year! Will do, thanks Alan Seem to be. There is a breaker box but nothing labelled, except the fridge, which I did by trial and error. So yes, there is a proper 12 volt wiring system that seems to have been rewired with 13 A plugs / sockets. Crazy
  11. As an addendum to this topic, I traced the wire feeding the twin 13A sockets and found the other end was attached to a 13A plug, plugged into a normal square pin 4-way extension lead tucked away at the back of a cupboard! Also plugged into this extension were leads supplying a light underneath a wall unit and a light in a kitchen cupboard / pantry. Needless to say, these were all unplugged and the extension lead disconnected. I must admit to being slightly gobsmacked by this. The wire supplying the extension lead disappears into the wall. What I would like to do is extend the cable that was supplying the extension lead as it is not really long enough to be useful. The cable that was attached to the twin 13A socket has two multi-strand cables within that are about 2.5-3 mm diameter, as is the one I want to lengthen. Given that I want to run a 65W laptop charger in one 12 volt socket and USBs in the other, is that cable suitable please? The only other option as far as I can see is stripping the cable back to the battery and inserting new - which I'd rather not do unless I have to - hence my question. Thanks
  12. Good point To be honest, although I don't want 13A sockets for both, I don't think a 12 volt device would have a 13A plug fitted in the first place. Could be wrong I have no intention of using the 12 volt sockets until they have been changed, and even then, largely to USB sockets.
  13. Yes, it was surveyed, and it was a while ago now so can't off the top of my head remember whether it was picked up by the surveyor or not. Yes, the same plug can be inserted into either so yes, it is a dog's dinner - which is why I am changing the 12 volt sockets to more appropriate ones to avoid such a problem.
  14. Sorry Tony, I don't understand. Do you mean using the small round pin 5A sockets? Why to the earth and neutral but not the live? Thanks for the reply btw
  15. Thanks OldGoat, no I'm not saying that at all, completely the opposite in fact. At the moment the 12 volt supply does seems to be going to 13A 230V sockets which are labelled as '12 volt' - I agree, bad practice - which is why I want to replace them with specifically 12 v sockets, after first testing that they do indeed have a 12 volt feed
  16. Yes that was a bit clumsy of me 😀 Sorry about that. I meant to say that all the sockets are of the 13 amp square pin type, but the ones on the 12 volt supply are labelled as such. As I said to Alan, I am not taking that as read, and will check each as i come to replace them
  17. Thanks for the reply Alan. Yes, apart from one cigar-type socket at the stern, all the 12 volt sockets are the 13 amp, square-pin type. I agree, very unusual, but at least the 12 volt ones are labelled as such !! I'm not taking that on trust though, and have tested the one I am replacing first with a multimeter (showed just over 13 volts, can't remember the exact amount), and will check each as I come to replace them. Not sure why it was done like that as it does seem like a potential disaster waiting to happen. Nothing gets plugged in unless the socket has been tested first.
  18. On my boat the 12 volt sockets all have 230 v sockets with just the live and neutral wired in - I may have mentioned this before. I am starting to replace them with C-Line type motorhome modular sockets and quietly confident about how to wire them in but just wanted to double check in case I make an arse of myself. The one I am replacing first is a double 230 v socket to a two-module unit: one with a 12 v cigar-type socket and the other with twin USB sockets. Forgive the crude, hastily knocked-up diagram, but is this wiring correct, please? Thanks
  19. Thanks Jen. Not resistant, just didn't think it might be the cable as I had mis-represented myself by the term wiggling. Having read your post, I shall revise my thinking.
  20. Thanks all, and apologies for not responding sooner. Eventually, after much turning the aerial and re-tuning again and again,... and again, I finally managed to get it back to how it was. What a faff! I appreciate what several are saying about less than perfect cable and connectors, but I should have explained myself better. Now that the channels are tuned, if one gets a bit of interference, I can improve it by pushing or pulling more or less cable through the gland (I know that sounds wrong). It seems to interact with the metal pole that the aerial is attached to, rather than wiggling the wire, which was a poor choice of word. I was hoping that someone might say that the more compact omnidirectional aerial were much better as, at the moment, the aerial pole goes through a hole in the lip of the cabin roof that extends over the well deck. I have just had a new cratch cover fitted which, of course, covers that hole, so I have loosen one corner of the cover, which defeats the point somewhat and looks a bit naff. So i was hoping another aerial type might be better so i could just pass the cable through the hole and up under the cover - hope that makes sense. What would be the best way of still using the log periodic whilst still having the cover on properly? Thanks again for your help
  21. This is driving me crazy! I have a bog standard log periodic aerial on a pole and it works fine - mostly. I have to turn it or jiggle the wire occasionally for a couple of channels but usually pretty good. I tried a new (cheap but small) aerial today and got nothing after auto tuning, but now I have lost quite a few channels - the ones you actually watch rather than the jewellery channel (!). etc The problem I think is that originally I tuned the TV at home and got all the channels i wanted so using it on the boat meant the tuning was there but not always perfect - hence the wire jiggling etc. Is it just a case of moving the aerial and auto-tuning until I get the channels I want or is there a better way. Would one of those compact omni-directional aerials work better? Thanks Just to add - I am getting everything except channels 1 - 10
  22. Thanks for that magnetman. After reading your post, and with the stove cold, I looked at the moveable plate in the top of the stove. It seemed to be able to move backwards and forwards and was balancing on the two sides. Not knowing which was the best place for it I ended up leaving it where it was somewhere in the middle, neither touching the front of the stove nor the firebricks at the back. I was going to push it all the way back but wasn't sure about where it should go with my brand of stove. I'll check the manual.
  23. Thanks for your concern LadyG. All good.
  24. Thanks BEngo. So it's effectively an industrial strength sweep's brush. Sounds just the job.
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