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Rick Savery

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    Poole, Dorset

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    Country Dreams
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  1. It sticks about about 2 inches above the deck that the filler cap(?) is in so it can't be an overflow - I hadn't thought about overflows as it was pointed out as breather by the surveyor.
  2. Thanks Tracy. I'm certainly not advocating continuing the bodge, just pointing out that the situation as it is seems like a bodge and so asking advice about whether the previous suggestions would still hold or whether some new course of action would be advised. So I can only assume that you are saying to continue with the suggestion of putting one of those fittings onto the plastic pipe would be a further bodge? What exactly would 'having the job done properly entail' ? frahkn - I'n not sure that it's an overflow or not, it extends vertically from the deck about 2 inches,
  3. I hear you Tracy. I assumed rubber, but plastic more likely - OD about 3/4" and walls of pipe about 3-4 mm thick and slightly flexible. What would be the best course of action? There is no access to the tank apart from the filler hole, so getting hands in there to do up a nut etc is not going to be possible - at least not with hands the size of mine 🙂
  4. Sorry to bump this back up again, but went to the boat yesterday to measure the pipe. What i thought was a metal tube is, on closer inspection, a piece of yellow rubber(?) 3/4" gas pipe painted grey with deck paint and you can see where filler has been used around it to secure it to the deck. Seems like a right bodge but probably a massive pain to change. I assume that the precviously suggested solutions to cap it off would still work with a rubber hose?
  5. Thanks Tracy, I'm still being a bit dense, but won't the elbow part still allow access to the tank to insects as it is only the top that is screened?
  6. Thanks MartynG, that's very helpful. Not 100% sure how to fix it to the pipe yet, but hopefully will know more when I measure it on Weds. I did think of some sort of compression fitting, but again this would depend on size and whether it is compatible with the vent you have linked to
  7. That's great, thanks for that. Just so I am clear, we are talking about this part of the kit ?
  8. Thanks Tracy, but I'm not sure the pipe sticks out far enough from the deck floor to make the U-bend pipe workable (not 100% about this as I will need to measure to be sure) and the breather in the kit is the second picture in my post above. The third part of the kit looks open rather than having a mesh of some sort in it. Maybe it has, do you know?
  9. That's a good idea David, I'll look into that. I have seen these which I assume I can fix onto or into the pipe, itdepends on the internal and outside diameters, which Jen asked me about. Both of these are 3/4 " so when I get back to the boat I can measure the pipe. These would seem to be suitable?
  10. Thanks for the replies. Very creative Tracy! Jen - Pretty sure the tube is steel, not sure of the OD, didn't think to check, thought they might be standard size. It's certainly less than an inch. I will check and get back when I go to the boat after the weekend.
  11. Afternoon all I have a breather tube from the water tank sticking up about 2 inches from the front deck. It has been suggested that I cover it to stop foreign bodies dropping in - nice. My first thought was something like a bit of nylon mesh (tights?) and an elastic band, but that seems a bit crude. is there something you would recommend please? Thanks
  12. Thanks Tony I had read somewhere about it being possibly life-shortening for a diesel heater to keep switching on and off, and how it was better to just turn it on, heat up a tank of water then turn it off. Then only turning it back on when the tank had run out. This sounded sensible and uncomplicated and i thought that this would be the way I would use it. Sounds like I don't have to worry so much about the heat dump, but I will talk it through with whomever installs it. I'm not that kind of bloke to hold someone accountable for their freely given advice 🙂 - which I am extremel
  13. Thanks Tony I had looked at an installation diagram from Everspacher before I started asking questions about installation, and even thought I understood it! After looking at my drawing and reading the replies to my post, I don't think I did. Looking at Eberspacher's diagram in the light of the posts and your diagram David Mack, thankyou, it makes more sense now. I was confused slightly by earlier posts, one of which said that they leave a rad/towel rail on and then a subsequent one which said there was no need to. Apologies if I have used those posts slightly out o
  14. Balancing valve yes (although I have to read up more on this) but I am assuming when you say heat dump radiator you mean the heater just treats the red line as if there is a radiator on it, or do you mean there should be an actual rad / towel rail there? If so, then I presumably would have to treat the first rad in my system as that heat dump and put shutoff valves between that one and the rest of the rads? Wish I was a plumber!
  15. Actually Tony, I can't lie, I originally drew the heater output as the top line, but thinking about it, that doesn't make sense does it, as it has to go to the calorifier first? So, yes, the bottom line is the output from the heater 🙂 . When you say that the radiatiors get their share of the flow, would that be as simple (?) as making the furthest one away from the heater open fully, whilst the closer ones are progressively closed down more? I'm not sure what I've just said makes sense as the furthest one still gets its hot water after the radiator 'in front' of it. Balance valve ? -
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