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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble


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    Market Drayton

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    Market Drayton

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  1. I chose to go with 2 pack just because the last time I used bitumen it only lasted 15 months - along the waterline it really didn't do well. Probably because the boat spent about 6 months in a marina, and diesel dissolved it. So far I've found the 2 pack to be incredibly tough and where I've scraped the side of a lock, all that happened was the 2 pack just went a bit dull looking. Chris.
  2. Scenario D. I'm on Tixall Wide, and see all the good mooring spots are taken. I navigate to the centre of the wide, push the tiller hard to port, increase revs, and do donuts!!! 🙂 YAY!!!
  3. The issue isn't just displacement. The speed of the rotating prop drawing water from the canal ahead of the boat is also a factor, as is the cross section of that area of canal, the draft of the moving boat etc. etc. The effect can be observed with a simple experiment (which I usually end up having to repeat most times we moor up. It goes like this... You find a nice quiet spot to stop for the night, bring the boat alongside where you want to moor and crew member jumps onto tow path with centre line and holds boat while 'proper' mooring is done using fore and aft lines. Another boat approaches. Then, at this point one of two things can happen. Scenario A. They see crew member holding boat on centre line and slow right down well before they get to us. Our boat moves back and forth a little bit (two feet or so), but not to the extent that holding it on a centre line is problematic. Scenario B. They approach, and pass without slowing down… our boat is drawn towards them when they are 100 yards away, and as they get closer we now need both of us holding on to the centre line for dear life (boat can easily move 8 - 10 feet even with us trying to stop it). They pass obliviously and everything settles down after a few mins and we try to complete the mooring. I know this is a bit off topic 🙂 but this all too often experience gives me empathy when I see others mooring and I slow right down in advance, knock it in to neutral when I get closer, and glide past imposing just displacement on the other boater... and they hardly move. Mile after mile of moored boats though? Yes, they should be moored properly because we should be able to go by at a courteous but not ultra slow speed! Cheers Chris
  4. It's offensive to look at, but that aside, how on earth can the steerer see past the 'cube' at the front to navigate safely and without colliding with other boats, bridges etc. etc. ?? I would not like to have 'it' coming toward me. Hopefully the owner has no intent of cruising in it!!
  5. I've just been hooking up a bog standard car battery charger across the starter batteries and giving them 24 hrs of charge at the same time, but I like the idea of a just using a jump lead!
  6. Thanks everyone!!! I guess I'm being a bit over cautious and all the replies really help. Rather than a hour round trip to the nearest winding hole and back, which sounds like it won't do much good, I'll aim to do a longer trip every 8 -10 weeks. I reckon it will be 4 hours out on a Saturday, moor up by pub (Jen said it's ok :-) to go to the pub in the evening) and then 4 hours back on Sunday - all in the name of doing the right thing! Tony, thanks for checking on the batteries! I have a shore line and an inverter charger, so what I do is give the batteries a 24 hour charge once a week. When I return the following week, they read 12.7 volts so hopefully I'm doing the right thing there. Great to belong to a really helpful community! Cheers everyone, Chris.
  7. Hi, another novice question - so thanks in advance!! The background to this is that I will only be able to get to the boat at weekends over the next 2-3 months do to work commitments and travel, so this got me wondering about taking care of the engine (a Gardner 3LW) properly over this period. So my question is would it be it advisable to: - give it a run once a month in order to circulate oil & so keep a film of oil everywhere (internally) I was thinking of a good hour or so under load so the engine gets up to temperature? or - not run it until I can fit a longer trip in? It's a Gardner LW and with parts being scarce I want to do what's best to look after the engine! Thanks Chris
  8. Thanks for the rely Bizzard, much appreciated! Chris
  9. Apologies if this is too basic, but I wanted to ask for any recommendations for grease. I know to use Morris K99 for the stern tube greaser, but when it comes to buying a 400g grease gun cartridge, what is the recommended grease for the rudder (theres a grease nipple on the top of it) and will the same be OK for the universal joint on my prop shaft, or should I get a different type of grease for that? Tried looking on amazon and there are so many choices it just confused me!!! Thanks Chris
  10. Chris_777


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