Rory_d
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Posts posted by Rory_d
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I'm more than capable if i've got a diagram
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I don't know how it goes to he consumer unit. Can't understand why there's a bus bar, my theory of wiring it up doesn't match this layout at all. I can see the markings on it but need a diagram how it goes to mains hookup socket etc
My understanding of it layed out as it is is that if the Inverter is on then I would assume the hookup socket will become live due to the bus bars.
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Hi guys
Need a bit of help please, does anybody know how to wire this particular changeover switch please? I've attached a picture of the switch I've got. I can't find a wiring diagram for this particular one so any help is very much appreciated! Need to get this working desperately,
Thankyou all in advance!
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Thankyou all for your help! I'll take a punt and see what happens!
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Thanks for the answers!
So I gather an email to the suppliers to ask the question is needed unless anybody knows of any specific controllers that will talk?
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Evening all,
I'm a little stuck so looking for some advice. I can't find the answer to my question online so looking here in hope I can find some answers.
So basically I have got 2 new 400w solar panels. One located front of roof and one on the back.
The battery bank is 4 X 110ah gel batteries and one starter.
I need to buy mppt to suit. I can get either 2 epever tracers 40a or renogy 40a controllers for approx £250 the pair. My question is can I have the two controllers each with one 400w panel connected to the same battery bank?
I'd prefer 2 controllers for two reasons first being that if one panel is shaded significantly the other will still charge
And 2 the price of 2 controllers is significantly less than the cost of one high ampage one.
Will I be able to have both connected to same bank of batteries and charge correctly without issues?
Thankyou all in advance
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Thankyou to everybody for your responses! Got it all sussed now!
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Just now, ditchcrawler said:
I used 3 lengths of wood and made a template stuck one bit in the top of the stove, one bit in the roof and then connected the two with a third length.
That's what I was thinking of doing but wanted various opinions first
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It's got quite a big offset , if it goes straight the fire will almost be off the hearth. It definately needs a couple of angles putting in.
The picture is taken dead straight so you should hopefully be able to see the angle is miles off on the top and also the bottom.
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Hi guys,
I need to replace the flue pipe on my boatman stove. The boat was refitted out totally and the stove was moved. The angles are therefore incorrect to the new installation, plus the flue is old so needs redoing in time for my bss. I have got the new flue pipe ready but haven't got much hair left to pull out!
Has anybody got any clever ideas how to measure the angles so I can cut and weld the new tube up. It needs 2 angles one bottom and one top. The stove and the collar are offset.
Any ideas greatly welcomed!
Here's a pic of the current one
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Yep assuming it relates to the place
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More uncovered but still no boat name as per reg number but did find some handwritten word in white paint but can only make out a few letters
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3 minutes ago, doratheexplorer said:
The surname Gordon perhaps?
also *porthole. A pothole is something else.
Well spotted
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5 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:
Could that be a stylised "ID & B" with surname the other side of the porthole above what looks as if it may be the boat's name or a place.
Actually now you've said that I tho k your right as all the letters have flat edges except that e !
I'm going to scrape the other side of the pothole now and see what I can find!
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More writing uncovered.
There is no writing either side of IDEB
Firstly what on earth is ideb?
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I thought perhaps it was just an owners name signwritten on the back of the boat as there is only 2 registered names for my reg number. Perhaps tomorrow I'l scrape some more paint of carefully and see if I can Find any more underneath. Luckily whoever did the blue paint job did a p155 poor job and didn't send the original.paint down so it is coming of relatively easy. Maybe i might find frog opper under there ?
The signage I found today appears.to have been done from.new as it's directly at the bottom.of all the layers
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Sorry to bring up an old thread but I've still not managed to find much info on it .
I did however find some old signwriting on the boat earlier whilst scraping some of the blue paint off.
Says Gordon.
The first letter was damaged so stripped the other side to confirm it was a g
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The lower seals are all perished that seal the lower fixed glass section and there is like has just been said a lot of moss etc in the middle sections,
i did however find a bundle of 8 windows that are seven years old on eBay so have just bought them and will just replace all the windows in the boat, theory being that as the windows aren’t that old it should be a piece of cake to find who manufactures them.
the seller thinks they are channel glaze or Caldwell’s , the item number is : 202624115205
does anybody know know who makes these ones? If so I will ring tomorrow and get the spares for them then hopefully can get them fitted next week
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8 hours ago, TheBiscuits said:
If you can alter the shapes and sizes of window holes yourself then it doesn't matter which type of windows you get.
Just be aware that the steelwork is the simple bit, as you also need to redo the interior trim.
Luckily the boat is only battened and cellotexed at the moment so if needs must nows the time!
7 hours ago, Johny London said:They do look very similar to the Caldwells that I have. If so, you will be bang out of luck as far as any help/advice goes - at least from my own personal experiences with them.
Are the drain holes free at the bottom? The problem with mine is that both the glass and the seal block those holes so I end up with water spilling over.
I spoke to Caldwell’s today and they have requested pictures of them, they did say that even if they’re not the same as theirs then they could possibly try to see if their seals would fit , hopefully they get back to me tomorrow.
as for drain holes there is 2 little holes on the bottom. No sure if their clear tho tbh I must go and look!
Channel glaze want over 4.5k to supply me new windows for the boat, I think new seals is my only option now
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8 hours ago, TheBiscuits said:
It's the ones where you need to weld in a fillet to change the shape of the hole that you need to watch!
Il speak to them today and see and if there’s more fab involved il sort it, fully qualified welder by trade, maybe I’m still a bit naive
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Has anybody got any experience with Wesley marine windows?
been on their site and a like for like alternative for the bathroom albeit twice the width is £130 0dd pound , if they are good windows il just do that and chop them in with my plasma, can’t find any reviews online tho
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To be fair the lady I have been dealing with at channel glaze was fantastic, I don’t think I’ve dealt with a company that helpful in a very long time,
just a shame that they can’t supply the parts I need.
as for Caldwell’s I saw a picture only a few days ago and the same style window did have differences but I can’t find the picture now for love nor money but il ring them anyway tomorrow and try!
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I will email seals direct and see if I can post them a small piece off one of mine so they can try and get a close match and do exactly that.
I am am awaiting a quote from channel glaze for single and double glazed units so will have to wait and see what they come back with, if it is absolutely needed I will have no choice but to replace
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If you look at the second and the fourth photo you can see the rubber insert is totally split in the corners.
Thats the seals that need replacing
Changeover switch wiring help please
in Boat Building & Maintenance
Posted
Forget I even asked