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mboat01

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Everything posted by mboat01

  1. You must be a mind reader !!! - small fender like you describe was my other thought. Know a metal fab that I'm sure would do the job with an off cut for just a few quid. Having flush finish would allow me to extend tiled area good distance which I think would look good.
  2. Thanks All. Im checking with manufacturer re temps below. Really good practical point wrt having a lip to collect coals and ash. Think I will heed advice and go back to usual route of raised hearth with lip if possible. Still going to stick with quarry tiles though ?
  3. Thanks. The 25mm height Im aiming for is so that it will end up flush with solid floor planking (probably 22-25mm boards, maybe reclaimed, maybe new). Then Ill use the tiles too in the galley corridor area (with a 2mm dpm sheet as bathtub underneath), like this https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/771874823615029798/, and all will be at the same level, sort of -- massively optimistic I know !.
  4. Just got a new hobbit stove :-P . Got it with stand , which raises it 158mm and has a steel plate built in as heat reflector. Want a tiled hearth. Ideally 25mm, which would be 8mm tiles, 3-4mm tile cement, 12mm Masterboard. Would that be okay in terms of BSS ??. Does the stand make a difference in terms of BSS (Ive looked at reg's .pdf and cant find anything specific). its not a new boat so I know its not mandatory but Ive got a BSS due and Id like (i) it to be safe, and; (ii) keep the BSS Insp. happy ? . Otherwise to go the solfitec recommended route would mean 60mm (8mm tile, 3-4mm cement, 15mm cement board, 25mm silicate, 10mm airgap) -- seems like overkill to me !
  5. You're quite right not really fair to compare a compressor to absorption - Things are moving on rapidly in 230v fridge world - this one is A+++ 61kwh/yr !!! = 18Ah/day (at 75% inverter efficiency) for £220....just wish it was < 500mm deep ?
  6. thanks. I just needed a sanity check. maybe its just dometic that are pants - equiv compressor to el cheapo 230v I was looking at (£99) is £1265 !!!!!!!!!! and uses "0.36 kWh/24h" so 360/12 = 30Ah/24hrs, i.e., the same juice . ok, so its probably a bit nicer unit, but I could get x12 of the others for the same price ?
  7. so Ive been looking at a 12v dometic fridge and it says "Energy consumption (DC@5/25°C) 2.64 kWh/24h" , which surely means 2640/12= 220 Ah /24hr ???? Surely that cant be right ? - Thats pants ! If I get a cheap 230v rated at 108kwh/yr = 108000/365 = 295 wh/24hrs = 24.5 Ah/24hrs, say even only 75% inverter efficiency = 32Ah/24hrs Wut am I missing here ????
  8. Very much not wasting your time. I wouldn't have looked into those two specific products without advice from here. There are thousands of products out there (I got distracted by 2pack varnishes for a good while), but I don't like the rich thick, undoubtedly durable, varnish look, as in original question.
  9. Yes ... but dont think I want build up of body and thickness (aka gunk) - Im not treating outside (like on dogbox above), but doing inside hatch window lining (outside of hatch is all steel :-P). Have just ordered osmo - will post update in 5 years when its all gone grey ?
  10. that dog box is the dog's b*ll*cks... Thanks folks, so the final bake-off seems to be between: Osmo polyx vs Le Tonk (say, 3 coats too ) ? For me I think Osmo as : I dont want high gloss (or faff of adding gellomat) , and, the killer : I dont want to sand between every coat (as per Le Tonk FAQ here) They seem very similar btw... Osmo polyx "Based on natural plant oils and waxes (sunflower oil, soya oil, thistle oil, carnauba wax and candelilla wax), paraffin, siccatives (drying agents) and water-repellent additives. Dearomatized white spirit (benzene-free). EU limit value for this product (cat. A/i): 500 g/l VOC (2010). This product contains max. 500 g/l VOC. Detailed declaration of ingredients available upon request". Whereas, Le Tonk : "Ingredients Pure resin modified through high temperature curing, Linseed oil, Tung oil, vegetable driers and thinners. Does not contain petroleum based solvents."
  11. Thanks for all advice. It was oak-going-grey thing that I wanted to avoid postpone as much as possible - do you think Sikkens wont protect from that ?. Anyone actually put Sikkens on oak on a boat - does it work ?. If not then maybe osmo ? - which one ?? 410 protection oil ?.
  12. Got some very nice new hatch windows (c/o Mr Kedian) - strawpoll: What would be best product to treat and preserve oak trim on inside (not varnish) ?? (I was thinking Sikkens Cetol HLS Plus) ?
  13. thanks.... looks like its not a prob !. good news ??
  14. yes ! ... my concern is really about temps around say 100deg over many months/years degrading cable plastic, shorting out and it being a real pita to sort out, ie., needing tiling etc behind stove to be removed
  15. humm ... good idea ...I could scrape away foam to hull, get some high temp adhesive (- do you think this would be ok ?), bond this to hull and cables through
  16. Thanks All. It will be a morso 1410 with min 45mm gap to tiles, 25mm silicate board, 10mm airgap (as per http://www.soliftec.com/Boat Stoves 1-page.pdf) to the side walls. I'll line bottom of wire tray under gunwales behind stove with a base of 25mm silicate. If arctic cable has inc temp rating then I guess thats another reason to use it... pity about price !!! -- know any good suppliers ??
  17. Complete boat refit - going to run wiring boxed in under gunwales (12v on one side, 230v on another). At one point this will mean the wiring running behind the stove (this will be tiled and stove insulation boarded to BS8511). Is this : (a) Safe generally ? - is there a risk of plastic round wires melting ??, and; (b) Ok in terms of BSS ?.
  18. nice : https://www.axminster.co.uk/woodspur-a4-stainless-steel-wood-screw-ax947639 ... price - ouch !...Why do they use torx heads not pozi ??
  19. There is good timber on the bearers - Ive just painted it with bilge paint !, because, just because. Yes, was going to lay cut 1/2 panels across boat (each will need to be individually measured but generally 600mm wide, around 1890mm long) with cut edges on centre of bearers. That way all edges of ply supported... (Still got devil on left shoulder whispering in my ear ... 'What about PAR douglas fir beams ...?' or mebbe 'green oak?') Yes ... was really good advice w.r.t. stainless screws ... will definitely do ..(and yes it was a P.I.T.A. to remove the rusty cross-head old ones !!!)
  20. will try to lay bricks leaving some gap channels. should be reasonably balanced but will may need to have fewer bricks on port side...tried doing all manner of calculations then decided it would be much better to built up and leave access and see what its like when done and then remove/add more ballast accordingly ? the 'bays' in photo above are 2' wide. going to cut ply sheets as 8' x 2' to lay one on each bearer. No unsupported joins and smaller size sections if ever have to take up again.... think you might be right about membranes and insulation ... A completely different tack would be scaff boards !!: and leave some gaps and let the sub-floor / cabin bilge space breath ... before I go buying ply of any kind what would downsides of scaff boards be (I think I would treat them with some sealant unlike that chap who did these)...???
  21. Thanks all. Think inclining toward Marine ply... Interesting you mention breather membrane as Ive just bought some !. However was planning different usage. Agree with Tony w.r.t. forming a moisture trap with condensation. I was thinking of using it simply as a substitute for bituminous felt underlay by soaking it in black bitumen paint, as follows: The layers of the cake will be : Hull >> scraped and sanded original blacking >> red metal oxide primer >> bilge paint (this is point Im currently up to) >> 3mm breather membrane folded over a couple of times soaked in black bitumen paint [*] >> class A engineering bricks 65mm solid (got hold of bargain seconds at £120 for pallet of 440 !!) as ballast >> air gap (only around 10mm Im afraid) >> underside of marine ply painted in bitumen paint [**] (edges sealed with SP Eposeal 300) >> Marine Ply 18mm >> 3mm underflooring reflective insulation [***]>> 18-20mm oak flooring T&G or maybe reclaimed parquet Related questions ... is [*] necessary, of would simply doing another coat of bilge paint be sufficient ? is [**] necessary, or even a good idea ? - would it be better to allow the ply to breathe ? ... is it really going to breathe ... I kind of doubt it. is [***] also going to form a moisture trap - this time between the top of the ply and the cabin ? ... surely less of an issue that breather memb underneath ? Thanks for all help. Opinions from all very much welcomed ! - Im learning a lot.
  22. Good spot ('Builderdepot' was going to be my source for the marine ply , which they have on for £60, plus £55 for delivery oop north). Question though is do board think phenolic would be worse/same/better for use as floor lining ...?
  23. Here, see photo 3, - https://www.gumtree.com/p/wood-timber/18mm-8x4-phenolic-plywood-plywood-sheets-plywood-ply/1318735108
  24. Going to lay floor in cabin - Was going to put BS1088 18mm Marine Ply... but found source of Phenolic Ply ('MeraForm Smooth Film Faced A/A Ext') thats cheaper. For this use would it be inferior / just as good / better ?
  25. Update for future benefit of any other LB victims owners: (i) There are drain holes in sides of floor beams to allow water to drain to stern... BUT !! - these, in my boat at least, were blocked by foam insulation spray. Very easy to clear out and, now that clear, should work well. (ii) Ballast was 50mm concrete paving slabs onto bitumen soaked roof underlay. To be fair to LB this seems to have worked very well. Despite standing water for perhaps a number of years bottom plate is in excellent condition with just tiniest amount of surface bubbling rust. (Next job for me will be scrape, bilge paint, lay down new underlay, paint / soak with blacking, allow to thoroughly dry, put down dry engineering brick ballast, put down new 18mm BS1088 ply floor)
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