Narrowboat Nimrod

Measure the distance between the fixed mounts and transfer this to the engine/gearbox. Measure twice and drill once what can go wrong? Five minutes with a tape measure beats lifting the engine in and out.

You could use the red oxide now but just make sure you bare metal all the red splodges next year prior to a repaint?

Is a bearing without balls a bush??

Very similar, I think it was by 3M and was black. His videos shows him cutting and installing it.

I watched a fella on youtube, Colin Jacques. He used a 3M product one of the thinsulate range. It was like a thick blanket that could be cut with scissors. It was on a new build and it moulded over the bearers so not as many cuts/gaps. It was rot and fireproof. The whole series is worth a look, he did a fantastic job using a lot of reclaimed timber.

Hot soapy water, if the tape is pulling new paint off that is dry it would suggest you have an adhesion problem with the new paint and its base coat.

The pipes are lagged in the engine bay, where the Eberspacer lives.

We have Finrads on a 52ft boat. They run off the Eberspacher. They work great for giving the boat a warm up on a cold morning if the fire is not lit. I backed mine with radiator foil so the heat is not lost to the side of the boat and lagged the pipework, made a big improvement.

It is still on the move! Spotted it today coming out of the Standedge tunnel as we were waiting to go in. A bit of bark off here and there but still moving. I have some pictures of it emerging from the tunnel I will post them if you like?

Yes you are right, what I should have said is all methods mentioned by MIKE THE BODGERMAN are a bodge. Someone might come up with a real solution. I thought trolling was the sport of teenagers? My last post, don't waste your time replying.

If you have arms like Mr tickle and can back a bolt up from inside the tank then thats fine. All other methods are just a bodge.

I have brazed up cracks in lorry tanks many times. The tank would be full and you could hear the diesel boiling as you worked. I was young and bulletproof. Now I would pay someone to do it and stand a bit further back. Get it welded, a rivnut or couple of small bolts and a bit of strap holding my weed hatch down? no thanks.

30 years ago your average narrowboat might have had a few dim lights in the cabin, a water pump and a bilge pump. Now people want a fridge, washing machine, microwave and a tv ect. Lots more scope for stray current and hulls to be eaten away in short order if not correctly protected. Most boats now have a galvanic isolator fitted but is it fitted correctly? How often is it tested? Pulling it out of the water every couple of years is the only sure way of checking your hull is not suffering.

If it has been stolen you can claim on your insurance, they will pay for the lift out and a new prop, job done.

If your barrus has the twin alt set up the panel gauge and warning light are only connected to the small engine battery alt, not connected to your main bank unless it has been rewired. You need to check the connections, belts and alt output on this side of the system. Unless the engine rpm is very low it is unlikely to be your problem.

850rpm is standard, engine should be at working temp with no load, dont trust the barrus rev counter. why are you adjusting it?

Special service tool, usually supplied to dealers/service agents.

No lock wired screws on the yanmar pump, it has emission seals fitted on its sensitive parts that require SST to remove.

Look on the side of the injector pump, if you move the throttle you will see the arm on the side of the pump moves. At idle you the arm stops on the end of a bolt, this is the adjuster. The bolt has a lock nut 10mm from memory, loosen the lock nut and screw the bolt in a tiny bit at a time. The revs will increase. Hold the bolt and re tighten the lock nut. Job done.