Bread
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Posts posted by Bread
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3 minutes ago, WotEver said:
I suspect that the cable insulation has suffered by being in contact with the expanded polystyrene insulation. This will have made the insulation brittle and by moving it around to disconnect the lamp a wire is now shorting either to the hull or to the black negative feed. As others have said, it really needs rewiring.
Thanks mate, I'll have a look to see if that's the case. Maybe a rewiring job like you say.
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6 minutes ago, LadyG said:
Keep up, you missed a bit, OP insults me, cos he does not appreciate a comment about heating with hot air, perhaps. Explaining a joke is never going to work.
He got a lot of stick from guys on this particular post, and I was the one who said I thought he was genuine. He then ignores all that, plus genuine advice and decides I should take a hit from him. I don't suffer fools gladly [him, not you].
Best to let all his posts sink to the bottom of the well.............
I
God he's still at it. How do I delete a thread?
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1 hour ago, LadyG said:
.................. and a heater too, I think we once thought about two hot-air pipes, one up each trouser leg for overnights. Sadly never came to anything. A hot water bottle only lasts an hour in to a four hour stint, not the best idea.
Your witty responses far surpass your personality, which is that of a plank of wood.
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This is the circuit breaker I have Roland. So when I disconnect the wiring from the two wires from the light, the trip pops out on the breaker circuit and the lights go out. Not sure what current is running through it. I can check when I'm home
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6 minutes ago, roland elsdon said:
So with the light connected all the other lights work and the lighting fuse / trip holds in.
if you disconnect the wires the fuse / trip blows. ( which kills the lights)
if its in series disconnecting it should kill everything but not the fuse
if its in parallel then removing it shouldnt stop anything else working, nor blow the fuse
logical deduction suggests that disconnecting the light is overloading the fuse.
is the wiring to that light by passing the fuse box and therefore creating a ‘big fuse’
i remember a similar situation where a friend wired in a cb radio straight to the battery terminals on the positive and to a handy negative bus bar. The day he tried to start thr engine having forgotton to turn on the battery master switch was memorable as he had also omitted a fuse. Luckily there was a fire extinguisher handy.
Roland, that sounds plausible. I think disconnecting the light is overloading the fuse. Will I simply have to disconnect that wiring from the fuse box then?
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17 minutes ago, Mike55 said:
Is this on a boat? Looking at the photo in your OP, those look like bricks in the bottom left corner.
Assuming that it is a boat, what voltage are the batteries? And if you take that light fitting apart, what voltage is the bulb inside, and does it glow brightly or dimly?
Yea this is on my boat. I'm assuming they're 12v, but then again, they are huge batteries so they might be 24V. I've only recently bought the boat, so naturally assumed they were 12V. I'll check when I get in mate. Would that make a huge difference in terms of the fuse popping out each time I disconnect them from the lightbulb?
4 minutes ago, WotEver said:Disconnect both wires. Insulate the ends of the wires with insulating tape. Do not connect the wires together, keep them separate.
Hi mate, I tried that and the fuse still pops out and no other lights work. Someone suggested putting the wires together but I can;t see that working out to brightly
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Unfortunately this isn’t a wind up. I really am that dim. Thanks for the few guys that replied though. It isn’t a 24v set up. When I disconnect the wires from that lightbulb then the fuse goes and non of the lights work. Just wondered how to disconnect it safely and to ensure the fuse stops shutting off.
Thanks in advance
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Hi guys,
Id like to disconnect this light, but when I disconnect it then all the lights on the boat don’t work. Granted I realise that it’s connected to the same circuit all the way around, but how do I disconnect it without disturbing the circuit?
Any ideas?
A simple solution without having to take feelings down etc would be appreciated.
I meant ceilings not feelings...not really concerned about my feelings at this point
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Thanks so much for that. Though I'm not using the separate fuel tank. I'm running straight from the main tank. So not sure I'll need an overflow pipe will i?
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I see, So you have a rotary pump to supply the fuel from the main fuel tank to the supporting fuel tank for the fire.
So, the big nut in the middle of the picture, that's a breather and filler cap? And my 8mm copper pipe should just slot into that once I've attached that big nut to the tank? Ha, I'm actually laughing at my inability to grasp this. So sorry
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Ah great,
So because it's gravity fed, I will have to drill on the side of the tank. But in theory it's the same practice. I won't need an overflow pipe, so the best bet is the breather and filler cap I think. I will google these now along with Essex fittings. Do you think I should put some sealant on the rubber gasket?
Thank you
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I think if you put grease around the drill bit it should avoid any shwarf dropping into the tank. I can't really connect it to the fuel filter as the unit is gravity fed. So the higher the fitting to the existing fuel tank the better.
The heater fuel tank connector looks good. That might be an option
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Hi,
Yes I will be drilling straight into the existing fuel tank.
That would be an option but I'd have to drain the whole tank which means I'd get all the crappy stuff at the bottom of it.
Am I right in thinking that? I didn't want to fully drain the tank if im honest.
Thanks so much
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Hi,
Thanks for your replies. Basically once I drill the hole into the diesel tank, how do go about securing the copper pipe to the fuel tank? Someone mentioned chemical metal to secure a dut around the hole then plug it by screwing in a bolt.
Will this be suffice?
Thanks
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Thanks LadyG
ill have a look at the search function and hopefully someone pops along with some advice
bread
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Hello
I’m fitting a Refleks diesel stove in the boat and it’s gravity fed from the diesel tank. It’ll be a quarter full and wondered what connections to get to stabilise the connection on the tank.
I’m fairly handy but by no means qualified and wondered if it’s wise to carry out the work myself. Struggling to find anyone to do the work this time of year.
thanks in advance
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Hi guys,
So, after much deliberation I've finally decided to fork out for a Refleks Diesel Heater. At the cost £940 it is steep I agree. Though the advantages far outweigh those of the Chinese planar heater. I think that Chinese heater would be good to initially warm the boat up but if you want something running all through Winter pretty much constantly, I think the Refleks stove is worth the money.
Saying that, I've now bought the Chinese heater, so if anyone wishes to buy mine unboxed and set it up then please let me know. I bought it for £170, but I'll sell it for £150. I'll advertise on the Chinese FB page too. Thanks for all your advice though. Let me know if you think I'm making the right choice.
Cheers
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Ha,,,brilliant !!
I've just joined that Chinese facebook group and I'll delve a little further Jambo. I'd rang a couple of heating engineers who refused to install it and injected project fear and advised me to buy a Planar. But if I find that's not the case I'll fit it myself and become nocturnal from fear of sleeping.
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Hi guys,
The heater arrived but I'm tempted not to fit it as I've heard a couple of people say they are prone to catching on fire. Needless to say that's put me on edge so I'm thinking of just forking out for the proper Planar 4kw Model. It's an extra £400 but I guess it's a small price to pay for a piece of mind.
Anyone wanna buy the cheap one ? ha
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Doratheexplorer.....Brill, ill defo give that a go. Thanks so much
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sounds like every Alde Heater May be different. If I left my old Alde heater on 1.5 - 2 I’d have rather reached the summit of Everest than sleep there the night. It’s all trial and error by the sounds of it. Will definitely report back on findings once in A&E with frostbite
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You're right Mike, that's pretty interesting. I've bought it so I'll let you know how I get on. It might be that I use it as the initial warm up then switch the Alde boiler on overnight and see how much gas that takes.
Cereal Tiller, that's good to hear. So it should in theory cost around £4.50 a night if I ran it all night? Unless it's red diesel then should be a little cheaper
Thanks for that
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Doratheexolorer...thanks for that advice. A solid fuel stove is the one I agree but I find it really gets to my asthma so trying something different.
Will make sure all doors and draughts are sealed though.
I will fit the diesel hearer and switch between Alde and heater I think. Thanks again for the advice on Alde settings, will try that for sure.
WotEver....
that manual is the one!!! I’ll have a good read of that before it arrives... cheers bud
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I agree a Planar would be the best option. But my bank account says it can't afford £469. Though come mid December ill wish it had
Plumbing query - marine toilet
in Build Blogs
Posted
Hello,
im installing a Jabsco electric toilet into my boat and just need a little advice please. I have connected the waste pipe and connected the inlet pipe for freshwater to fill/flush the loo. When I open the stopcock and switch on the pump the toilet continually fills with water. To prevent this do I need to fit a solenoid valve to prevent this happening?
Thanks in advance