Barge Maria

Was the she'll builder a lady .....??

Yes, as stated the BMV is a good bit of kit but as supplied out of the box the settings are too conservative and need overriding. This is easily done. I particularly mean the tail current and voltage settings that cause the unit to show full charge. The unit then "resets" every time it detect a full battery charge (and I mean a proper, full charge). As noted a good session with a 3 or 4 stage mains charter should help. Rolls batts are very tough so hopefully they haven't been ruined. Good luck!

No worries! I knew what the assumption was and why. The manual/PDF shows a jumper for the N/E link in the IT. I shall need to..er...refresh my memory when I get back on Wednesday.

No its a Victron IT. I didn't mention inverters at all.

Thanks. As far as I know the Victron has the correct N/E bond internally and it is clearly earthed to the hull... Gurt big earth wire! These replies are much appreciate iated btw.

Quick QN.... To check the N/E bonding, is it as simple as turning power off and checking resistance between the conductors? I have a Victron isolation trannie in the system but have no reason to suspect this. No doubt someone will guide me! Cheers Tim.

Thanks for all this folks. Just to confirm: No adjacent cables Not cheap LEDs Glow stays all night I shall investigate N/E bonding upon my return to the boat. Tim

I wonder if one of you electrickery experts can give me a steer please. 230 volt led bulbs in metal kitchen light fitting Work fine, all other use elctrics work OK as well When switched off they still give a faint glow whilst in fitting When unscrewed there is no glow I can't seem to detect any voltage from the turned-off fitting when using a multimeter although access is tricky (deep plastic collar on fitting) Any ideas anyone? Many thanks - apologies if this email seems curt but typed on small tablet in haste while on car ferry! Tim

To MGJ - I never said they hadn't come to the right place, but the OP needs to get a sense of priorities. Hence my comment. Nothing else meant by it, and I assure you not trying to be rude.

I don't mean to be rude to the OP, and there is some very good advice in this thread from experienced liveaboarders, but if your main question is about car insurance rather than moorings etc. then you really have a lot of things arse about face I'm afraid.

River Sour? I assume the Soar. Severn is MUCH bigger but can be boring. Make sure you have appropriate anchor and chain plus MOB equipment, it can run fast and then on other days be a pussycat. Avon is beautiful but as it drains Bredon Hill and part of the Cotswold edge it can go up and down like a tarts draws. Make sure you check the forecast. Some locks are hard work as they have steel gates and some bridges can be a bit tight if there is a bit of fresh running. Enjoy it though!

I don't know whether this is of any help but many old Dutch barges (mine at 105 years old) are insured via GJW but via their specialist barge man Geoff Bradshaw. He is very knowledgeable but I don't know if they would do narrowboats under these provisions but perhaps worth an email to barges@gjwltd.co.uk and address it to Geoff?

I've never done the link but might I ask what the problems were?

Nice pic. Well done! We're in Bruges and a complete hooley is forecast here as well. Batten down the hatches

About 30 to 33 I think. Similar capacity Vetus 415 is in that area. www.nauticus.co.uk/bmc.pdf Found this in a Google search, might be useful for you.

As others have said in the Avon is well worth it. Very beautiful. Some locks are hard work, all are widebeam with steel gates (as I recall). River levels go up and down like a tarts draws so keep an eye on the forecast as it drains Bredon Hill and the Cotswold escarpment! Tim

Anything of use here.... www.asap-supplies.com/marine/manual-pumps Tim

As stated earlier you do already have a verbal contract which has not yet been completed. I am intrigued that the broker, having advertised the boat (I assume) had not satisfied himself that all systems worked, and can't start the heating. There is a trading standards issue there if this is the case. FWIW I would be inclined to walk away. Good luck with it if you proceed.

Thanks to all of you for replying. I'm going to stay on constant ..... well, the heating is, but turn the 'stat down when we go out to the local bar...er I mean supermarket. Lot of supermarkets in Bruges!! Cheers n beers to all. I'm sure there will be other opinions and MtB might have figures. Tim

Yes that's what we used to do but it occurred to me that having a "cold section" in the middle of the day, when we are on board pretty well all the time as we work from home, might be less efficient as you then have to ratchet up the heat again when the timer comes on again at, say 5pm after having been off for, say, 7 or 8 hours. I just wondered if there were any comparative cost figures anywhere.

I wonder if anyone has any statistics or thoughts for whether it is better (i.e. more efficient) to run the central heating constantly but at a low level, to maintain a sort of "bubble" of heat in the boat (ours is a 30m Dutch Barge) compared to having the heating turn on in the morning for brekkie, then off until, say, teatime for the evening. I am currently running low-level all day, largely driven by swmbo's feet which are permafrost even in the Summer!