Pirateringo

It's all starting to make a lot more sense now. Cheers

Cheers for the help, so just checked and its floating at 14.1 it's also doing same on absorption? Just ran engine and that's now pulling in 6a at 14.5v

I've just been reading all about this, so I've been charging batteries with generator since 9 this morning, kept turning off victron and back on which did go back to bulk again. Currently pulling in 4a which is 1% tail. I'm assuming there not really charged yet? Should I wait till they get to about 2a draw

These batteries were all brand new today from tayna batteries. I know assumptions usually buggar things but after connecting them all I ran generator it took maybe 30 minutes then battery monitor (bmv 602s) showed fully charged plus battery charger went into float. Currently telling me 12ah used and sitting at 12.32 OK cheers will try that. By the looks of things it won't take much abuse to see 50%

Batteries are now currently showing 12.33v and we have hardly used them. No TV no fridge just a few led lights for a few hours

Hi, yes it was 10ah. Batteries were charged using my generator via a victron multiplus. The battery monitor synced and said soc 100% so I assumed they were fully charged.

I have replaced my 4 old batteries with 4 new ones each 110ah fully charged them and synced my battery monitor. After only using 10a my batteries are reading at 12.4v any idea why this may be happening please? If one of the batteries was duff could it have this effect?

Yeah this, sorry all. I'll try to be a bit clearer in future. ? Engine numbers match the original paperwork with boat. Am I right in thinking that if somebody were to fit a flexible coupling that they'd have to cut of some of the shaft in order to fit it?

Hmmm no I think I'll have a go, it's done me well most my life so far. I'm looking up and reading plenty. If I mess it up then so be it ?

Here you can see where original mounts sat, which would have put adjusting thread 20mm further forward than it is now, sorry I meant shaft not tube

Yeah, the hole is m16 I've decided I'm going to replace the mounts with the correct 140mm mounts. I'm assuming I can undo the coupling, hoist the engine up using a chain lift. Cut 20mm off end of tube and then replace engine and tube. Please telle if this is fantasy? Oh and it is no grease stern tube. I'm going to get a professional in to realign On another note, how do I know if my coupling is flexible or not? I'm thinking if it's not when I do all this I might as well fit one. But no idea which one I have

OK, so if I do that then the dimensions whether there 140mm or 100mm shouldn't matter? If I did decide to move engine back whqt would that entail. Does the prop shaft just slide through stern gland? Or will I need to undo the fittings?

Sorry just rechecked there a 100mm. Now the ones Im supposed to have are 35 shore hardness. Is this all I need to go on as I've found some that are the same dimensions

I'm just going on what I have read on the web. My engine is a 42hp isuzu. All the mounts I've found for it are 140mm bolt to bolt but the current ones are 110mm The boat shakes excessively with engine running but then 2 of the mounts have become like putty so it could be that. Unless there areounts suitable for my engine at 110mm? Engine doesn't look to low as it enters stern gland

Yep just felt plenty of space there, so next question as I'm new to this ? can I move it back easily, can I do it with boat in water?

The previous owner of my boat has at some point put on engine mounts thwt are too small for the engine. The original mounts should be 140mm bolt to bolt but he has used 110mm. In doing so the engine has been moved back. So I'm going to replace mounts as there soft anyway. My question is will I need to cut prop shaft when moving engine forward again? I'm assuming he just moved it back when he replaced mounts. I know engine will need realigning which I'm going to get a professional to do but I'd rather replace mounts myself to keep costs down Cheers John

Fair enuff, I'll look Ta

Hi all, I am going to be changing the engine mounts on my boat soon. Is it possible to somehow jack up the engine enough to change one mount at a time? I'd rather do it myself than pay somebody, and I have someone coming to help realign Cheers

Cheers mate, I will ?

Hi, yeah I've looked at that one but it says spaces upto 60' unfortunately we're 62'

Hi we need somewhere the cannock/Telford area and this place seems OK location wise. Does anyone have any experience of the place. There doesn't seem much info on the web. Can't find email address

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LOL fair enough, cheers for the advice. I think I'll just get all 4 mounts replaced then Anybody know a person who could come out and do this for me? West Midlands area (lichfield)

Thanks for the reply Tony, I have no idea if it's flexible or not. Is there a way to tell? I'm assuming I could just scissor Jack the engine up a bit and do one mount at a time?

Hi all, have only just had time today to have a proper look as I've been working away. 2 of the engine mounts rubber seems to have become a putty type substance I can literally take of blobs with my finger. I'm assuming this is the reason the vibration is so bad. The previous owner had a battery leak (explosion) I'm assuming this is too blame? Or is that just age? Any way the 2 bad ones are front right and rear left looking at engine from tiller. Is it an easy job to change. Please bide with me, I'm new to this ?