Lumisid

For sure, but I like the relaxing part !

Again thanks, will you try to get telephone communication with the lock keeper when out on tideway so they know when to expect you and prep the lock. This is essential and was the point of my OP… I’ve always found the comms with the Limehouse lock keeper very good. They had a mobile and it was straight through every time (lock included!)

That’s great to know, thanks

It’s changed since after summer 2023. it used to be aqua vista and the lock keeper had a mobile number you could call. CRT are responsible for Limehouse Lock now and it’s booked in the same way as Thames Lock online. Problem is who do you call when your on your way down… Yeah for sure I’ve done it maybe 4/5 times, every time I think never again but… haven’t hit the wall yet !

Yeah it’s changed late 2023, CRT are responsible for the lock now not the marina anymore. That phone call is key!

Has anyone come into Limehouse (from the tideway) since the switchover to CRT? As it’s not the Limehouse keeper who do you call to prep the lock when coming down from Tower Bridge? thanks

Ok interesting, I remember when I plumbed the radiators I was told to use the screw fix stuff by most people (pro fitters) I’m going to connect the diagnostics again later and have another look, I really hope not but yeah could be a possibility, thinking there might be some crud in the heat exchanger itself …? Don’t know if that’s possible

Antifreeze is at 25% I used the screw fix one with inhibitor mixed in and deionised water the spine is all low down apart from when it reaches the engine bay where there is a couple of right angles leading up (about 20cms) to the hoses from unit (flow) and up to header tank (return) ill get a pic in a bit Hi, there are 2 shut off valves on the spine which are fully open, I’ve experimented with taking the caloriferi out completely but the unit operates in exactly the same way. I also opened up the radiators completely (after having balanced them) and it’s still the same Yes this is what I have done

The rads are about half as hot as they should be even if the system runs continuously for 3hrs plus. No thermostatic valves. All rads are bled, header tank (2pipe) is at the highest point. The header tank doesn’t seem to circulate as much as it used to (bubbling…) problem started when there was brown sludge in the system so flushed all radiators, flushed pipes and valves, took the unit replaced burner and glow plug basically took the whole thing apart. Changed coolant There was a marked improvement but now it seems really slow to heat up

Hi all, thermo top c keeps cycling between part and full load every few minutes for entire cycles. As a result it all takes much longer to heat up. Does this suggest a circulation issue? I’ve plugged the diagnostics in and the temp does get up to 76degrees then ramps down to 60odd and then repeats up and down for the entire cycle… I have searched the forum can’t quite find a topic which indicates the same issue….apologies if I missed some threads thanks

It goes to a board with an AC in terminal. Due to the uncertainty of this and the fact there is no spec in the manual (for this particular model) I’m going to remove it and put both 240v sources (shoreline and inverter) through an AC manual selector switch and keep it simple

I will be on Shoreline for 3 days later this month...I've got 670ah battery bank that I would like to put a charger on while I'm plugged in. I'll be arriving fully charged so presumably the batts will just need to be maintained throughout the stay....Can I getaway with strapping a little Ctek 5a on ? Only real load on the 12v is a very economical Inlander fridge, LEDS, pumps and device charging. Any tips?

I use shoreline so seldomly, I think a manual will be fine

Inverter installed from new I’m thinking along those lines. Installing a change over switch seems the simplest way to go, thanks Sure, definately not wired to the same terminals though

I’m trying to upload more pics but site is not letting me, sorry

Colecraft did the electrics...it was a sailaway I’ve included a pic won’t let me load anymore.

Got a close up, def an ac in going on...somehow... I put a pic up, there is an AC in you can see at the bottom of pic

Definately this model. If you follw the line 240 comes in the boat goes through the galvanic isolator then inverter then to Rcd then sockets and immersion

Thanks. I only have an inverter not inverter/charger so unsure if it will source the incoming power (as you suggest)

Hi all ive got a Victron Inverter compact 2000v which has 240v running through it (AC in and AC out). I recently had the opportunity to plug the boat in (via the shoreline) but Inverter doesn't seem to have a bypass while it's switched off. So no power was coming through. there is no A/B selector to choose from to distribute power (shoreline or Inverter). The line goes: Shoreline-galvanic isolator-Inverter in-inverter out-rcd fuses- sockets etc. cant find anything in the manual regarding this but as I've said, on shoreline if the Inverter is off, there is no power. Unsure to switch it on with 240v going through it in case i cause some damage. Any ideas?

A great boat dog... loves swimming too

I totally agree, I'm right on the cusp of doing just that...!

Hi all, I’m finding that if I close off rads (I have 2 lever valves on the main spine) the calorifier gets hot v quickly. However when removing the calorifier from the circuit and opening the rads they do not heat at the same level. I know above I had written that they did heat up once I had turned calorifier off (after it being heated) but if starting from cold they do not get up to temp. Seem to be going round and round with this. Any ideas welcome... one extra point to add -when system worked well the air intake, on startup, was always noisier than it is now. It would make a slight howling for 10-20 secs, then back off and then boiler would really cook. It doesn’t do that any more. Not sure if this is related...Anyone have experience with this? Thanks

Rads are balanced

Hi all, thanks for your comments and just an update i changed my fuel lines and made sure there was good dosage from fuel pump on start up. All seems to be good. on turning the rads off the calorifier heats up quickly and it's the same vice versa if I turn calorifier valves down rads heat up quickly im guessing now it's a question of balancing the flow between the calorifier and the rads to get that sweet spot...! i have two valves on the calorifier one on flow and one on return, it seemed to work well with the flow (in) wide open and the return nearly shut. Sorry if I'm mixing terminology,