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ivan&alice

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ivan&alice last won the day on June 22 2019

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    Staffordshire, UK

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  • Occupation
    Software Developer
  • Boat Name
    Butterfly

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  1. @Aprilia I had the same thought process as you when looking at boats. Trad = more interior space = good for liveaboard. The engine room taking space is one big argument I didn't consider, so do consider that. In the end I went for a longer boat with a cruiser stern, and I'm mostly very pleased with my decision although now I can't cruise the northern canals. The engine is very accessible on my boat, and though rainwater does get into the bilge it's not a problem to pump it overboard. I do think some outside space is great when having friends over, and it can be lonely for the steerer if everyone is sat in the bows, so my vote is cruiser - extra long cruiser, in fact. Single piece of advice is the same as @mrsmelly - get a full size boat. The extra cost per foot is well worth the interior space IMO - the only reason not to get a full size boat is if you want to do the northern canals or if you're trying to fit into a particular mooring. I absolutely love the look of a tug deck and would be so proud to own one! But I think it isn't really a good practical choice. If I was going to design my dream boat I'd have a reverse layout with a king size bed at the front, and no bow deck, with an extra long cruiser stern. That said if I lived with such a boat for a few months I have no doubt I would swear that my next boat would have bow doors! When you live in a 60' corridor whichever you choose is going to be a compromise. I have rounded. What are the downsides of the squared stern? I should have thought that a square counter makes it quite a bit easier to get cilled. Does it affect the way the boat swims or the wake that it produces at all? Or as long as the counter isn't much submerged it doesn't matter? The extra usable space would only really apply when the boat was stationary I should think, since otherwise occupants would be within the tiller arc.
  2. Any feedback on the planned circuit? Reckon it will work?
  3. I meant 1mph average not cruising speed - that day I covered 4 miles in 4 hours, which included 6 locks and slowing for a lot of moored boats. My boat handles fine at tick over speed, unless it's windy or if there is a current in which case I have to give it a burst of throttle now and then. I do have a pretty enormous rudder. As an ex-hire boat I think it is probably designed to be idiot proof. I havent sank it yet so it seems safe from this idiot at least.
  4. I did intend that yes, as far as I can tell that's currently how the hose is attached - see pic (but I haven't dismantled it so it might be a hose tail). After a couple of hours of hunting I think I have found everything I need to take all the above advice. (note that I can't find a suitable 22mm hose tail so I've changed to a 13mm ID hose) Flow from engine: 15mm OD engine pipe outlet 13mm ID car radiator hose (about 0.5m long) 13mm hose to 15mm pipe hose tail compression fitting (this is nickel plated brass - is that OK fpr electrolysis?) 15mm PVC pipe with compression inserts (<10cm long piece) 15mm to 22mm reducing elbow 22mm PVC pipe with compression inserts (<10cm long piece) Calorifier bottom compression fitting Calorifier top compression fitting 22mm pipe with compression inserts (<10cm long piece) 22/15/15 unequal tee with a olive-replacing air vent in the top 15mm compression 15mm PVC pipe with compression inserts (<10cm long piece) 15mm pipe to 13mm hose tail (another one) 13mm ID hose (about 1.5m long) Back to engine Please can I ask you to check my circuit? This is the current outlet:
  5. Ah ok. The calorifier has compression fittings rather than BSP so I don't think I will be able to screw a tee directly onto the calorifier? But I could use a very short piece of pipe with an unequal tee, though I can't find 22mm x 22mm x 1/8" BSP. Screwfix have a 22mm/22mm/15mm tee - I think I could use that with the 15mm compression end air vent you linked? Does that compression end fit into a compression leg of the tee without a pipe (i.e. replace where a pipe would go)? I can't see how it would work otherwise. If so, that would mean pipe, tee with air vent, pipe, hose attached with jubilee clips.
  6. Ah thank you! Yes this looks right - although the largest is 19mm OD, not sure if I can jubilee it tight enough to make a seal with 22mm hose. Perhaps I should just use 16mm ID hose with the 16mm bleed valve, and then a 15mm/22mm push fit reducer on the calorifier inputs But I don't understand - what does this screw in to? How do I install this into the line?
  7. Oh, more efficient AND less chance of thermosiphoning. It makes me wonder why the manufacturer would state that the hot should enter at the top and why my calorifier is that way around. I'll experiment - using flexible hoses means it's quite easy to switch over if I need to. I don't have any other header tank other than the engine's water input. This is actually my biggest concern because where the calorifier is now, the coil is around the same height as the engine. Where I mount the new one in the engine bay, the coil is significantly higher. I'd be relying on the engine's water pump to push the water into the calorifier. Can you recommend what I should use for a bleed valve? Or what I should search for? Most of what I can find online screws into a radiator...
  8. I think I get it! The thermostat is used to close the skin tanks when the temperature of the engine is less than X. Excess heat from the engine goes into the calorifier, until the engine is too hot to be cooled by the calorifier circuit alone, at which point the thermostat opens the skin tanks. Alright, so since my calorifier is very close to the engine, I probably won't have a problem with flow. Pro of mounting the cali in the engine bay. Taking all this into account, I'll have the flow from the top of the engine enter the top of the coil (how my old calorifier is currently configured). This should assist the water to flow via thermosiphon and discourage water that is heated in the calorifier from flowing back to the engine. If that doesn't work, then I'll have to add a flap valve (How will I know that it's not working? Hot water cools quickly?) I'm not. Currently the engine is connected by hoses (15mm inside diameter ID, 20mm outside diameter OD) to 15mm pvc pipes, then a push-fit reducer to take the pipes to 22mm pipework to the calorifier where they go through another reducer to fit the old cali's 15mm coils. I don't really have space for horizontal pipes from the cali's coils so hopefully these aren't needed. For the new calorifier I'm going to try the following: * 15mm OD engine pipe outlets go to: * short piece of 15mm hose with a jubilee clip. (I'll reuse some of my existing 15mm ID hose). * 15mm/22mm brass hose reducer with jubilee clips. * 22mm ID car radiator hose (this one is silicone. I can cut a 1m and 2m length for the flow and return, respectively). I figure it's best to have the same bore as the calorifier coil, even if the outlet of the engine is smaller. * Connect via jubilee clip to a short bit of 22mm OD PVC pipe on the end to make the connection with the compression fittings on the calorifier (using inserts of course). I'll make sure the hoses are always rising from the engine to the calorifier. I'll attempt to bleed by slacking off the jubilee clip on the top pipe calorifier coil (the flow side). If that doesn't work then I might need to look at including a dedicated bleed valve. I'll have a mixture of coolant ready which I'll pour into the top of the engine while I do this. Can you see any reason this plan might not work?
  9. Thanks, it does help. So your calorifier doesn't use the hot water outlet on the very very top of the tank - you rather take the hot water from the top female fitting on the side? I think there can be no harm in putting stoppers on them then and using a "normal" calorifier arrangement, with a T on the top for water and PRV. Tony, since you've been kind enough to answer perhaps I could ask you to clarify something from your website: I assume that the cooling pipes leading out of the top of the engine are the outlets (since heat rises). I have two outlets on the top of my Beta 38 engine, located on opposite sides. There's a small 15mm one which leads to the bottom fitting of my old calorifier coil on one side. On the other side is a very large one which leads to the top of one skin tank, then out the bottom of that skin tank to the top of the other skin tank, then out of the bottom of that skin tank to the bottom of my engine. Where the large skin tank pipes rejoin the engine, there is also a smaller inlet to receive the return (I assume) feed from the top of the calorifier coil. Since the pipes meet here, I presume this must be where the thermostat is. I find that a bit confusing because I would have thought that it would be located on the outlet of the engine. The new calorifier is located in the engine bay on top of the swim. This means the pipe run is much shorter than previously and I was thinking of using flexible hoses (50cm from the top of the engine to the bottom of one coil, and about 1.5m from the top of the coil back to the engine. Since the engine is lower than the calorifier, both pipes will be sloped. I think a bleed valve on the top outlet of the calorifier coil will be necessary to get any air out (where the arrow is in the diagram). I'm not sure exactly what it means for the pipes to run horizontally or if that's possible in my case. Thisis how the old calorifier is arranged and it's working well. Considering that now the calorifier is going to be higher than the engine coolant tank on top of the engine, is this still going to work? Will it be prone to thermosiphoning back into the engine when the engine is off? Interesting that it's more efficient! Yeah that's the diagram from the manufacturer of the calorifier, but my existing calorifier (I think) has the return at the top. No bleed valves on my current system but so far so good. To reduce the temperature of the hot water out of the tank? All my taps are blenders actually and I have a thermostatic blender which I plan to use for the washing machine inlet. So I don't think it's necessary to "globally" reduce the temperature. So far at least the water from my taps has never been too hot.
  10. What are the 1/2" female tappings for on my calorifier? I've tried to find diagrams of calorifier plumbing online (including at Tony Brooks' site here: http://www.tb-training.co.uk/17Bdomwat.html ) but I can't see anywhere shows this fitting. I think the top one is for fitting the pressure relief valve (so you don't have to fit it on the hot water outlet?), and my guess is that the bottom one to allow a point to drain the tank for winterisation etc. Can I blank them off with with a 1/2" BSP stopper? And could I fit the PRV on the 22mm outlet to a T on the top of the tank? The way my boat is laid out makes it awkward to fit the PRV on that fitting, if that is what it's for. //
  11. This makes total sense, thank you for the explanation! What I didn't understand is what the anglers had in the canal to be disturbed by my passing. I thought perhaps fast moving boats scared the fish away. I really cannot see how you can compare a effective speed of less than 3mph to a motorway. No one is rushing because it is impossible to rush. I'm personally not on a deadline (though I recognise that others may be) - still I would prefer to make more progress and see more of the waterways than permanent tickover speed affords. Nevertheless, I got the information I was looking for and I will pass anglers at a "slow, steady" but maybe a bit more than tickover speed, in the centre of the channel, because I now know that it can affect their baited area or damage their keep nets. Thanks all!
  12. I'm going absolutely nowhere and certainly not rushing - covering miles is not vital or even an aim. We only ever do a few miles and a few hours a day (I'd wager much fewer than most). We did four miles in four hours today - in effect a mile and an hour are about the same thing, considering locks and passing moored boats. I'd consider 1mph a rather leisurely pace on a motorway. Less than that and you start blurring the lines between cruising and mooring!
  13. Interesting, I didn't know any of this about fishing matches. Thanks for that. Still not sure why the fact that they have spent a lot of money and are taking it very seriously is the reason they want you to slow down - but: That makes sense, thank you. I'm still not sure about slowing for anglers quite as slow as if they were moored boats. I never go over tickover for moored boats which on my boat is extremely slow - and once I was shouted at even at tickover speed 🙄 But I will slow down for anglers now that I know that's a courteous thing to do. Thing is, there is either a boat or an angler pretty much everywhere. Not trying to justify speeding but continously cruising at tickover does make for slow going. It doesn't bother me at all if someone gently rocks my boat when they pass. Speeding boaters are never an issue unless I didn't tie up properly or put fenders in the right places. Perhaps my boat is especially stable. Have you seen those signs that have a red circle with "TICK OVER" that some put in their windows? I've considered putting something similar saying "feel free to pass as fast as you like!"
  14. That went over my head. Is that difficult to do - would you need plans and things or is it just a case of getting a thumbs up? A gold license would cover mooring on EA waters and MLN right? My family is all in East Anglia so the Fens is actually not a bad base for me. @Dav and Pen do you have any more info on those four properties? To be completely honest I am probably just dreaming, the bank manager would have to be in a very good mood to lend me enough to buy any sort of house I think, let alone one with water frontage and one with a mooring, but still no harm in dreaming.
  15. Living in the Fens would be great. One question though would be what happens during floods? As I understand it the whole area has to be carefully navigated because the water levels are liable to change often and dramatically - is it even possible to have a permanent mooring on the Nene? My understanding is that you still need to pay CaRT rent when you moor at the end of your garden, if it's a river you have riparian rights and don't need to pay anyone. Is that right?
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