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ivan&alice

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ivan&alice last won the day on June 22 2019

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    Middlesex, UK

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    Software Developer
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    Butterfly

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  1. Thank you Frank! Yes would be on a bike. I'll give them a call tomorrow but my guess would be that they are not working at the moment. I understand the point behind this, but don't you run the risk of unintentionally welding the fitting in? Why not intentionally weld the fitting in? Essentially turn the connector into a male for screwing the hose directly on? Thanks for the detailed description of the repair. It does seem like welding would be the answer, from both a cost and a neatness perspective. The oil cooling arrangement may not be ideal but it has worked well enough for many years. (That said I do wonder if the overheating oil might be the reason for the hoses' failure). Thank you - this is a long way and I'd like to have it sorted before then, especially considering that we should not be cruising during the lockdown. But I'll keep this in mind if i don't find anything closer. This to me sounds like the best of the best solution, to avoid having to impact the engine cooling system at all. But it is also by far the most invasive the other idea, to roll my own heat exchanger with copper pipe, could work to avoid having to mess with the engine cooling... Thanks to everyone else for the replies, especially Tony for the description of where to mount the cooler. I think I'm still keen on trying a repair, weld if possible to have it done in these difficult times, and araldite if not, at least for now.
  2. Even though it has already passed through one skin tank? I would have thought that pre-heating the engine's coolant with the gearbox would be more of an issue than pre-heating the gearbox coolant with the engine. But perhaps gearboxes like heat less than engines do? Just had another thought. When the calorifier is cold, I believe the cooling is diverted to the calorifier rather than the skin tanks. In this case, won't the coolant stop circulating through the oil cooler / skin tank circuit, and potentially cause overheating of the gearbox? I could try to put something around it to hold the Araldite tight against the part, thanks for the suggestion! Thank you! I have just been to Hopesafe in central Watford to get these hoses made up. Sixty quid later, I've split the part that the hoses attach and it looks like these hoses will be far too short to connect to where I'm told a new oil cooler should go (on the coolant inlet just before the engine and just after the skin tanks). Would the engineering company you mention be able to repair the oil cooler end cap? This part sounds... ok... This part... a bit terrifying. The pipes I need to connect them to are really nowhere near the manifold so it would be quite an operation to connect them up. But I guess I'd have to do what I'd have to do? 218 GBP for the cooler, another 80 GBP for new longer hydraulic hoses, plus another 50 odd for the coolant pipes and brackets I'd need. Oh and replacing the coolant (which I do need to do anyway). Thanks so much for digging this out and showing me the size. It's chunkier than I was expecting. I think a proper Beta part that bolts to the manifold might be the way forward, even if it is painfully expensive. Decision is to attempt a temporary repair what I have with Araldite (any suggestions which one? There seems to be a number of options). Then a proper fix probably with the Beta cooler, longer hoses and spaghetti of coolant pipes coming later 😭
  3. I think the male-male adapter might be tapered on one side and not the other. I wasn't sure which way around it went and both seemed to fit, so I think I inserted the tapered side into the oil cooler end cap, causing it to split. I then turned it around the correct way, but this seems like the most likely explanation. The hose side still seems to fit perfectly, though. I accidentally posted a duplicate of this thread, which had one helpful reply suggesting I contact @RLWP to ask if your engineering company could possibly help with repairing the part? For now, especially given the lockdown situation I think I'm going to do as the Beta salesman suggested and try to seal it with Aruldite. The leak is such a tiny ooze that it will at worst just mean an oily engine and having to top up the gearbox every so long. @Ryeland I can imagine, looking at my engine bay, that placing a new inline oil cooler would be a major job, and a major job that needs to go on a list of other major jobs to do! The obvious place I think would be in the steel pipe that joins directly between the two skin tanks, located as it is right next to the gearbox and hopefully having water that is at most medium temperature. I'd have to cut out a section of this pipe long enough to take the oil cooler. As you can see from the picture that pipe runs directly under the prop shaft and it's really inaccessible. Thanks for the offer! How long is the oil cooler? I'm curious to know how much of the steel pipe I would have to remove and if that would be possible. I think the place that was suggested is here - on the coolant inlet to the engine? This has the advantage of not needing to angle grind through steel but also the disadvantage that it is located a long way from the gearbox - I'd need much longer hoses (green) to get the oil there. I've put coloured arrows to indicate what I think is the coolant flow from engine, to skin tank, to skin tank, back to engine.
  4. Thanks, this is a good tip. I'll look around for car repair shops. Ah thanks, so it's kind of an inline device that goes into the coolant flow. Makes sense. That's just what Beta quoted me on the phone. I don't know what oil cooler. 100 GBP odd seems much more reasonable. I guess I would still need something to plug up the hole left by removing the oil cooler end cap? I still don't really see anywhere that there is enough hose that I could remove to fit something as large as this, most of the cooling pipes to the skin tanks are solid steel. So I'd either have to cut into those or perhaps do something else weird. Will think about it. Stupid question, but is it the gearbox that pumps the oil around the system for cooling, or is it something inside the engine / oil cooler device?
  5. Unfortunately they don't have any in stock, so it's either repair or replace with a new 218 GBP (presumably ex VAT) remote oil cooler...
  6. It looks like a repairable problem to me - are there small engineering shops that would fix something like this? Any idea where to go? I'm in Watford, Herts right now, and heading north up the Grand Union. The leak is annoying and making my engine bay oily but I can still drive the boat. Me attempting to be clever, I had the hoses made up a little shorter so that there would be less stress on the bend. I had one of the hoses replaced about a year ago and replaced it exactly, but it had quite a sharp bend on it. I lost gear again a few days ago, and I noticed that there was oil leaking from the crimps, so I decided to replace both hoses and change the length so that they would not sit under stress. So unfortunately needing new hoses seems kind of likely if I replace the oil cooler. I'm not even sure where the oil cooler would go. Yes, I used PTFE tape. I didn't the previous time, but when I was unscrewing some of the other connectors I found gunk on the thread that looked like old PTFE so I thought what's the harm. I did 2 or 3 layers. It was rather easy to thread in, and rather easy to crack. I'm not sure but I think I may have put the threaded fitting the wrong way around the first time, and perhaps one side is ever so slightly larger or has a different thread.
  7. Thanks, "oil cooler end cap" is ideal, that's how I referred to it when speaking to Beta now and they were able to identify the part I needed. Unfortunately they don't do that type of oil cooler anymore (probably because of the overheating problem @Tony Brooks mentioned) and a new oil cooler will cost a bit over 200 GBP. They're going to have a dig around in the factory for me and see if they can find a replacement part for me, and if not, I'll have to see how I can install the separate oil cooler. I've just gone and spent 60 quid on the new hoses so I'll be a little bit sad if I have to replace the whole thing. Thanks for the help Tony and Goat, will report back once its solved.
  8. I changed the hydraulic hoses connecting my Newage PRM 150 hydraulic gearbox to the heat exchanger on my Beta 38 / BV 1505 engine. Unfortunately when screwing in the male/male adapter, I managed to crack the part that it screws into. Gearbox oil is now slowly oozing out of this crack. Here's a picture with the part in question circled (it has a hex bolt in the centre) and an arrow pointing to the crack at the top, which is just visible. Any idea what this part is called and where I should go to get a replacement? Could I get it from Beta or Newage? I have no idea what this part is called so I don't know how to order a new one. I can't see this part on the technical drawing I got from here: https://issuu.com/betamarine/docs/beta-35-38-he-prm150-100-10639?e=15614309/62577801 Any idea what it's called or how to go about replacing it?
  9. I changed the hydraulic hoses connecting my Newage PRM 150 hydraulic gearbox to the heat exchanger on my Beta 38 / BV 1505 engine. Unfortunately when screwing in the male/male adapter, I managed to crack the part that it screws into. Gearbox oil is now slowly oozing out of this crack. Here's a picture with the part in question circled (it has a hex bolt in the centre) and an arrow pointing to the crack at the top, which is just visible. I would like to replace this whole part if possible, but I don't know what it is called nor where I should go to get a replacement (PRM or Beta? Somewhere else?) I have no idea what this part is called so I don't know how to order a new one. I can't see this part on the technical drawing I got from here: https://issuu.com/betamarine/docs/beta-35-38-he-prm150-100-10639?e=15614309/62577801 Any idea what it's called and where I can get a replacement?
  10. I see that FOTRN is 12 GBP for the year and GOBA is 25 GBP. Both very reasonable. How does the mooring work - do they have moorings that they maintain / pay for for the use of members? Are there any facilities at these moorings or are they just bits of river that are open to members only? And if I didn't join these, are there any spots that qualify as visitors moorings along the rivers? On my map it doesn't look like I'll need Denver Sluice to get onto the New Bedford River / Hundred Foot Drain. For Salters Lode lock, do they just open both gates at high tide so you can cruise directly through?? Would a STL for the Nene be cheaper than upgrading to a gold license for 2020? (At my pace I'm not sure how many other EA waterways I'd get to this year). Is this normal? Is SSA likely around April-July? Does this mean I'm stranded wherever I am for potentially months if SSA is declared?? Thanks. At this point I presume you are grounded and need to back up until I find a 65' hole to turn in... Thanks all for the links and blogs, I'll look at these as soon as I can.
  11. Planning my first really long boating adventure for between April and July when the warmer weather hits. The farthest north I have been is just before Lock 74, Lady Capels near the Huntingdon Bridge interchange. I have family in East Anglia so from there I'd like to head north on the Grand Union through Milton Keynes and the Blisworth Tunnel, then take a right through Northampton and onto EA waters. From there, the River Nene to Peterborough and the Middle Levels to Salters Lode. Then the Old Bedford River / Hundred Foot Drain to join up with the Great Ouse at Earith. I then want to follow the Great Ouse to Bedford. Is this all feasible with our 65' narrowboat? Is the time of year appropriate? Where is the head of navigation on the Great Ouse? Am I going to have any trouble finding moorings along this route? Will a gold license be enough or do I need other special licenses for this route? I have not yet been on any rivers other than the Lea and Stort which for the most part were no different to canals. I have read the handbook about river navigation and it seems deceptively straightforward. However I have also read on this forum that flooding and tides can be an issue on these rivers. What else do I need to know and how can I find this out? Any other advice for me? Thanks!!
  12. The Ford Super Plus Premium seems to be a well-recommended antifreeze. I have seen other OAT antifreezes advertising 10 years (including some that I linked to earlier) as well as some that advertise 5 years. The cynic in me finds it hard to believe that Ford has a secret formula that doubles the lifespan - it's probably just This was really interesting, thanks for this. I notice that you can get a 20 litre of Prestone coolant concentrate from eBay for 66.63 GBP. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/352360538574 Is Prestone recommended as a good brand? It might be advisable to get the Prestone simply because it does mix nicely with other antifreeze, just in case I don't get it all out.
  13. I see! So is the following correct: Glycol (MEG) lasts pretty much forever as an antifreeze, but the corrosion inhibitors do not. Antifreeze with silicate based corrosion inhibitors is dyed blue and lasts about 2 years. Antifreeze with OAT corrosion inhibitors should not be used with yellow metals, is usually dyed red and lasts about 10 years. And never the twain should meet.
  14. This will be my first choice. If there are baffles in the way I'll try the compressor and blow it out method. I will do this, if it turns out to be very hard to empty the tanks. If I'm easily able to suck it up out of the bleed valves with a piece of pipe stuck down to the bottom, then I'll not bother. Unless I am trying to change the antifreeze type, not so? I hear they don't like being mixed. As I don't know what kind is currently in there I would not want to risk it - I'll be attempting to get as much out as possible and flushing well with water. Interesting you say this. This is the calorifier loop. All the plumbing on my boat is plastic push fit. What about this concerns you? Do you think that it can't handle the heat? These pipes have been there for a long time without any incident. And what would you recommend changing to? Copper? I'd wonder about the pipes work hardening given the vibration of the engine... As this is glycol based this would only last a couple of years, correct? Especially if the system proves hard to drain, I'd rather get the longer life OAT stuff if possible - works out a lot cheaper over the long run, too. My only concern is the yellow metals thing - the calorifier loop, at least, will have copper in it, so I suppose long life antifreeze is not compatible...
  15. Problem is my skin tanks have no bottom valve, and the inlet and outlet pipes are permanently welded to the tanks. The tanks are in series and if you look at the third picture the only place connected with hoses that I could potentially undo is level with the top of the tank. It might be easier to put a flexible hose down that pipe though, I'll see what it looks like once I get the bleed nuts off. Then I guess it is a case of flushing it out by putting plenty of fresh water in the one side and draining it out the other. I'll fill my waste drum and call it good - I don't want to have too much to dispose of. Thanks for the feedback on the smith and Allan stuff. Note that it is 36 litres _each_ tank, not in total. My estimated total is 81 litres! I got this figure by measuring the tanks externally. So I am sure it is substantially less than this. This is good to know, I guessed stronger was better. But I think then I will start with a 20litre and see if that is enough. The manual says 33% to 50% so I won't go less than 33%. Good call, I'll buy a drum of distilled water as well. Oh wow, I have not heard this before. I don't think there is any yellow metal in the system but there could be, somewhere I can't see. What happens if you do have yellow metal? Does just that part corrode or would there be some other systemwide effect? OAT just seems much simpler and cheaper to only have to replace every 10 years...
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