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    Middlesex, UK

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  1. Thank you. I must admit I'm surprised that the circuit can have short thin sections without causing major voltage drop. I suppose that short section will act like a resistor and perhaps get a little warm. I also suppose I will have to have a nut&bolt and crimped lugs to convert the small fuseboard wire to the large gauge wiring. Any thoughts on 3x 6mm^2 cable seperately switched or 1x 16mm cable that connects the three sockets in parallel, with only one switch?
  2. Noted, will run cable there and back. I'm pretty sure the hull or at least engine block is connected to the -ve terminal in the engine bay, or am I mistaken?
  3. Wow, thanks for the link these things look like a lifesaver!!
  4. This thread could have been me! I used to have a 12V socket about 16m away from the switch. It worked with the 12V USB chargers that I use (which I highly recommend - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B075WQQG7C), but every now and then the switch would trip. It has since stopped working entirely. I'm not sure how thick the wires are, they look like about 3mm in diameter including the insulation. I want to install 12V cigarette lighter sockets in three locations. I'm trying to figure out what gauge of wire I need. The locations are 8m, 11m and 16m from the 12V trip switch board (one way wire run). The chargers that I use are 3.75A max. Should I: A. Run these all to the same fuse and select a gauge appropriate for a 3.75A*3=11.25A over 16m? This I worked out to need 16mm^2 (5 AWG), which results in a voltage drop of 3.17%. B. Run these to their own separate fuses, with the largest required cable being 3.75A over 16m? This I worked out to need 6mm^2 (9 AWG), which results in a voltage drop of 2.83%. I also have four other very nooby questions regarding 12V wiring: 1. Do you wire the negative directly to the hull, like a car? Or run a negative cable back to the battery? 2. The switches on the fuse board have very skinny little wires connecting them to the main supply. I would have thought that the whole circuit would have to be in large gauge - the weakest link essentially limiting the whole circuit. Or doesn't it work like that? 3. The switches have some kind of built in trip with a little reset button. They don't seem to be fused. 4. Where is a good vendor to buy electrical wiring? Online shop?
  5. Thanks for all the advice. Here is my plan of action: 1) strip out existing chipboard lining and polystyrene insulation 2) remove loose rust with wire brush (no angle grinder) 3) if there is any rust remaining, dab on vactan 4) if not, coat of primer 5) coat of topcoat 6) thin layer of aerosol spray foam (to bond celotex and fill any gaps) 7) press celotex boards into spray foam before it has set 😎 aluminium tape all joints to create an effective vapour barrier 9) re-line in 6mm plywood 10) finishings as per wife's orders
  6. The hull is made up of flat plates but not necessarily parallel with where the walls are going to be. Besides, the Celotex is not going to be bonded to the steel so I'd be worried that it doesn't seal out the condensation. Is this the kind of kit you used? Our steel work is primed, too, but the moisture/rust has worked it's way through. It looks quite superficial so I don't think there is anything to worry about yet, I'm planning on cleaning up the rust and repainting with primer before insulating anyway. But still, I'd rather keep the condensation completely away from the hull if possible. Do you think it's anything to worry about? Here are a couple of pics of what I'm talking about:
  7. Did you apply a say 10 to 20mm layer of aerosol spray foam and then press the Celotex board into the foam before it cured? Does this aerosol layer sufficiently cover the steel and seal against moisture?
  8. I am fitting out a spare room as an office/guest room. At present it is very rough. Sterling board lines the floor and a third of the walls, original Black Prince fiberglass laminate another third, and the last third is missing its lining. Behind this lining is 50mm thick polystyrene slabs that are variously balanced in place on the struts or stuck down with a blob or two of Gripfill-style grab adhesive. Needless to say this room gets very cold in the winter, and I presume it will get very hot in the summer. Moreover, there are flecks of surface rust on the hull behind the insulation, and I'd like to prevent air and therefore condensation from getting to the metal. I would like to strip the linings entirely from this room and re-line it with thin (e.g. 6mm) plywood. I want to look into insulating this room better, and the advice I have seen from scouring old threads on this site is that spray foam is the way to go, though expensive. Is there any difference between the spray foam installed by professional companies and the spray foam in a can like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/370892389649 I've also seen bigger DIY kits like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/293040411232 What would be the most effective and what would be the most cost-effective way of insulating this room from cold, heat, noise and especially condensation?
  9. Fair enough. I think probably your best bet for improving the signal is to get as tall a mast as possible. Unless there is some impact on attenuation of the signal over the longer length of cable? Perhaps it would be worthwhile my giving Connex a call then and seeing if they recommend the same. Thanks for your help.
  10. Interesting, thank you. I would expect a larger antenna to be more effective though. On the site you linked there is this for example: https://www.connextech.co.uk/fgo---4g3g2g-high-gain-omni-antenna-ffgo35342-nf-xx-821-p.asp As well as a very impressive looking Yagi antenna (but I believe these are directional): https://www.connextech.co.uk/lte-mimo-yagi---lte-high-gain-yagi-antenna-1400-p.asp We do have cheap Chinese phones that may not have the best antennae. Its reassuring to know that others find 3 effective in a mifi unit!
  11. Excellent, excellent, excellent OP by @NB Ellisiana, packed full of good information there, thanks and greenie given. I'm in very much the same boat as it were with requiring excellent internet for work while CCing around the country. 'Pologies for reviving this old thread, but I think it's perhaps in need of an update. As 6-months-in newbies we're still trying to figure out what we need and how to get it before we drop a lot of cash. But we do intend to drop the necessary cash to make sure that our internet is as good as we can get it. Our current system is working fairly well in the southeast (where we are currently) but no doubt this will need an upgrade when we venture further out. We are simply relying on hotspots provided by our two phones. For redundancy, we each have a 12-month SIM only contract from different networks. One EE at 22 GBP / month for 40 GB and unlimited calls/texts, and one '3' for 20 GBP / month for unlimited everything (including data). This is the exact opposite of my experience. EE has been excellent in every way, including the customer service. 3 on the other hand barely works even in London. They say it's because they are rolling out the next generation of towers, which may or may not be accurate. However 3 with the uncapped deal is still handy to have. Is this technology moving on or is this just different areas having different coverage? Which network or deals are people swearing by these days? Secondly, I'm sure the technology has come a long way since the Huawei E5332. Any updated recommendations for the fastest and strongest Mi-Fi router that will accept an external aerial? I may be dreaming but if it was dual-SIM and could automatically pick the strongest connection, that would be first prize! I would also want to be running the internet entirely off 12V, like the OP. Finally, having a secondary router / wifi extender so that I could have strong signal on both ends of the boat - has this been necessary/advantageous for anyone here?
  12. @Patrick_C Could you give a link / model / part number for the silencer you fitted? Is it the same as the one that @Flyboy fitted? I think I should probably do the same with my D4 hydronic... I don't even have an exhaust silencer at the moment.
  13. Sorry perhaps I wasn't clear. I start the engine to recharge the battery when the voltmeter reads 12.1V (at a minimum, frequently it is higher than this). While charging, the voltage jumps up to 14.5 (I think). After an hours' charging, I turn off the engine. The voltage then reads around 13.8V. This is the highest I've ever seen the battery, so I presumed that meant "fully charged", but after the above conversation I realise is probably around 95% charged. To be fair, no one has commented on the fact that the seat diagram I posted shows the tiller arm sweeping underneath the seat, rather than into the seat/steerer as in all of these comments and pictures. If you are perched on a seat that is positioned out of the way of the tiller arm as such, the risk will be significantly reduced, I think. Even the boaters handbook on page 11 merely says "On a traditional or semi-trad narrowboat, stand in front of the small rear deck and not beside the tiller so you won’t fall off when making sharp turns or going into reverse. Don’t let passengers stand or sit in the way of the tiller." What more do you want, seat belts??
  14. Thought this might interest some Black Prince fans. I sent Leighton at Black Prince an email to see if he had any more information about the '99 and '00 Duchess 6 SMART boats, and he said: "I’ve spoken to Pete who recalls that the hulls were a pre-cut kit, assembled by a company called George Prior Engineering based in Lowestoft. The shells would be then delivered to Stoke Prior to be fitted out here. " He also pointed out the following 2000 sister to Bumble Bee and Butterfly is for sale! Holly Blue 504759. Still has much of the original interior! https://narrowboats.apolloduck.co.uk/boat/black-prince-65-cruiser-stern/601185
  15. So all of this stuff about 2 hours a day killing batteries is not true as long as you charge for 10 hours once a week in order to keep your batteries healthy? That means that there isn't that much wrong with what I'm doing (although it's inadvertent) because generally we go for a long cruise every weekend. Not quite 10 hours but I'll run the engine a bit longer in future. I think I get it now. It's actually quite simple. 1) LA batteries get harder to charge the closer they get to full. 2) Leaving batteries a little bit empty kills their capacity over time. 3) Ergo, you want to fill them to the brim as often as possible to prolong their life. It might just be that I've killed the top 10% of my battery by never fully charging it. I'll see what happens once I put solar in. I had planned to upgrade my battery bank at the same time as the solar, but after this conversation I think what makes more sense is to install the PV panels and solar charger utilising my current battery and make sure everything is working properly (including the human operating the system) before I install new batteries. But this is exactly what I'm saying! The best case for lithium is that LA batteries have to be fully charged periodically - this is very inconvenient at times, during winter for example, when there is no sun and you perhaps aren't as keen for long cruises as usual. However due to their great expense, and the fact that they can be quite dangerous if mishandled, I'm still keen to weigh up the cost of Li against simply replacing LA batts every couple of years because I'm not charging them properly in the winter.
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