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Mike55

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Everything posted by Mike55

  1. Thanks for the information - I ended up doing it for a little over two hours. Our 2500/12-100 stayed in equalise mode just fine but the voltage never went above 14.8V. The specification stated 'up to 15.5V', which includes 14.8 but seems low. Our batteries are 12V Trojans (30XHS).
  2. I've managed to get my Mastervolt Mass Combi into equalisation mode but can't find any recommendation on how long to leave it in this mode. Does anyone have any suggestions?
  3. They're at the stern (semi trad), & the locker top forms a seat. The locker needs to be about 2" higher/deeper. Raising the seat 2" would make it uncomfortable to sit on, so lowering the floor would seem to be the way to go. The locker drains are in the floor & our diesel heater is mounted underneath, so I'm not sure how much space we've got to play with. It's way to hot today to spend any time in the engine bay with a still hot engine!
  4. 6kg cylinders are the same diameter as 3.9kg I think, but obviously taller. Problem we've got is that our gas locker isn't deep enough to take 6kg cylinders without significant modification. I'd be quite happy to use 6kg, it's just modifying the boat that worries me.
  5. Not quite where the OP wants, but we used Lyons boatyard on the North Stratford a few years ago. They were very helpful.
  6. We tried to get on that cruise, but it was already full. Subsequently a space became available, but by then we'd already set off on a trip 'down south '. Shame we missed you!
  7. Thanks all for the information/experience.😁
  8. Yes, similar to my recent experience, spoke to VTS fine on leaving Brentford, but nothing at Teddington. Had to phone them. I too am looking at connecting my handheld to a fixed aerial. What type of aerial have you fitted? I was looking at https://www.force4.co.uk/item/Shakespeare/Stainless-Steel-Whip-VHF-Antenna-With-Magnetic-B/AVW?utm_source=google&utm_medium=base&utm_campaign=base&stock=14108&gclid=Cj0KCQiAraSPBhDuARIsAM3Js4o2IjBrimBomWqasfNevy8GWSjy40FHSF6X-zNXV0C8DNHUewT_2hcaAsZdEALw_wcB
  9. Do you mean the map on the CRT website? Or some other CRT map?
  10. Bought some electrical contact cleaner (from Toolstation) on the way down to the boat this morning. Gave the switch a squirt between the rocker & its surround, left it to evaporate, put the power back on and hey presto it's working again. The contact cleaner worked a treat! Thanks for that top tip folks, quick, easy & best of all, cheap!
  11. I'll get some contact cleaner and try that as a first go, failing that I'll look at Sellweb, although noting the other comments. By coincidence I live just outside Tamworth and the boat is moored nearby at Fazeley too, so convenient if nothing else. I'm not great at soldering - my hands just aren't steady enough. Thanks for the very useful input.
  12. I doubt if it is the shore supply cable as the unit works fine in Inverter mode. I've got two shore supply cables so will try it with the the other one just to be sure, although of course this wouldn't eliminate a fault in either the socket I connect to or my fixed inlet plug.
  13. Recently our Mastervolt Mass combi 12/2500-100 inverter/charger appears to have developed a problem with its 3 position rocker switch. The 3 positions are: Inverter-Off-Charging, and it's working OK in 'Inverter', but in 'Charging' for some time I've had to rock the switch back & forth to get it to start working. Once it's started it's fine until it get switched off, then the problem recurs. It's now got worse and won't go into 'Charging' at all. This means that to charge the battery (& get the 240V system to work off the shore supply) I have to leave the switch in the 'Inverter' position. Why does this matter? It doesn't unless there is an interruption to the shore supply when it will then start to drain the battery, made worse by us having a dehumidifier and thermostatically controlled heaters running off the 240V system as the boat is unoccupied over winter. I suspect the problem is a poor contact in the switch. Does anyone know if the switch is replaceable or alternatively if there is anything I can do to clean the contacts? I've tried repeatedly operating the switch, but it hasn't helped. The Mastervolt manual is no help whatsoever.
  14. I've previously used Vactan followed by Bonda primer and finished off with Danboline for a bow locker that does get water ingress through the scuppers. It's remained rust free for about 4 years now and still looks fine even though it has things like an anchor frequently stored in it. To my surprise the Danboline has been very resistant to the inevitable knocks. I used Vactan rather than Fertan because (I believe) Fertan requires washing with water after application which then requires to be dried. Vactan can go straight to the next coat once dry the following day.
  15. Mike55

    Toilets!

    So where are you able to use your self pump out system? Every elsan point seems to have a sign somewhere that says something like "Not suitable for self pump out".
  16. I too have recently fitted a Balmar SG200, it's been in use for about 6 weeks now. Monitoring discharge seems fine but when charging the SoC seems to be inaccurate. It uses voltage & tail current to establish when 100% SoC is reached. The 'Time remaining' to 100% is currently useless - it'll frequently go from 6 hours to go to fully charged in 20 minutes. I'm reluctant to start tinkering with the pre-set values, certainly until I've got a better idea of what's going on with it.
  17. https://canalrivertrust.org.uk/media/original/43721-boaters-instructions-for-booking-a-passage-on-the-bridgewater-canal.pdf?v=ebc49c
  18. According to the IWA Silver Propeller web page, any visit after 1/1/2018 counts, so provided you've got the evidence (photo) it should count. The new additions caused us to jump from 15 to 16 - it would have been 17 but we didn't have a suitable photo of Coventry Basin from when we were there in 2018.
  19. That would only work if you only coupled the two 'balanced' sides together. The other two would need to be vented to atmosphere. If you cross coupled the cylinders (as you proposed originally) it won't move. It may be quite difficult to find cylinders where the annular area of one equals the full bore area of the other. An alternative would be to use two identical cylinders but mount them to different points on the doors to accommodate their different strokes. That would be quite an interesting exercise in trigonometry. Good Luck!
  20. I think there may be a problem with your idea to use hydraulic/pneumatic cylinders unless you can come up with a system that extends one cylinder whilst retracting the other. The reason being that the cross sectional areas either side of the pistons are not the same because the piston rod creates an annular space.
  21. I have one too and find it deals with most of my trips down the weed hatch. If I do have to put my hand into the water I always wear an elbow length thick rubber glove. Apart from protecting against Weil's disease, it also protects against fish hooks, which can get caught in the weed/rubbish that ends up on the prop. I sharpened the blade as it was pretty blunt as delivered. The handle isn't brilliant, but I think the current version has an improved handle.
  22. I've often wondered how usable the step at the rear of our NB would be - it's of the extended plate type. Recently I saw a boat with two pieces of angle welded onto the rudder to form a step on each side. Positioned sufficiently low to allow easy use, in conjunction with the existing step this seems a simple modification to make the boat safer. My only concern is whether it would affect the water flow past the rudder.
  23. And a Merry Christmas to you too! Dave ?
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