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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble


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    Uz Boat
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  1. Liverpool Maritime Museum is well worth a visit.
  2. Silly me. Does that qualify me to be this week’s idiot?
  3. Err...what did you do then? Had the shaft or 'just' the prop failed? Either way it couldn't have been an easy or cheap fix.
  4. I thought the basin at Weedon was the entrance to the arm that went to the barracks.
  5. Mike55

    Boat horn

    That looks very like a railway lookout’s warning horn used to warn track workers of an approaching train.
  6. I’ve got a book about these called ‘When Britannia ruled the cut’ IIRC. Very interesting book.
  7. Yes, I realise that my current set of batteries are knackered, and may have been on-their-way for some time. We've only had the boat for 2 1/2 years so the batteries are almost certainly at least 3, probably 4 years old or more. Thanks for this, this is really useful stuff, especially 1, 2 & 3. My alternator is a 110 Amp unit, which seems to be a fairly standard size. I do realise that the energy taken out of the batteries has to be replaced including allowing for loses to get back to the same place. I haven't (yet) done an energy audit but I will do.
  8. I have already read that thread. The batteries I currently have and am proposing to buy are all wet open cell batteries. The boat has a voltmeter and ammeter switchable between the domestic and starting batteries. I also have a hydrometer. The boat has spent all winter on a shore supply, but when we go out over the summer we want to have the flexibility to moor somewhere for 2 nights without running the engine. I understand that a days worth of cruising is necessary to restore the batteries to 'fully' charged, but I'd like to be in the position that I don't have to do that every day, and I can occasionally go 2 nights on battery power alone. I hadn't really considered this - I was looking at a simple switch of similar batteries just with greater capacity. I'll look further into this. Thanks.
  9. I did a test yesterday when virtually straight after switching off the charger there was insufficient capacity to start the diesel heater. I had to reconnect the charger to start the heater. By this morning the battery voltage dropped to just under 12V, on a load of a fridge, watching TV for a few hours, running the diesel heater for about 3 hours plus a small number of LED lights. How do you rule out sulphation?
  10. The reason I'm looking at increasing the capacity of my domestic batteries is to give us greater flexibility in how long we moor without having to run the engine. We'd like to have the flexibility to moor for 2 nights rather than one. We struggled to do that on the current batteries even when they were performing OK.
  11. We've had the boat about 2 1/2 years, and the current batteries were on it when we bought it. I don't know how old they were then. As far as I can tell the charging regime for the batteries I'm proposing to buy is the same as the existing.
  12. My current domestic batteries (4 x nominal 115Ah Trojan 27TMH) are life expired. I'm considering replacing them with 4 x nominal 130Ah Trojan 30XHS batteries. There is physically enough space to take them in my battery box (they're a bit bigger in all directions) and enough clearance to get them in. The existing battery connection cables should reach the new battery's terminals OK. The terminals are the same type. According to the manufacturer's data sheets the charging characteristics (voltages) of both battery types are the same. My alternator is a 110 Amp unit and the battery charger is a Mastervolt Mass Combi 12/2500-100. As this is going to be a fairly expensive outlay, is there anything I've overlooked that is going to come along and bite me on the backside? I'm intending to buy them from Tayna batteries as they appear to be the cheapest. Any advice gratefully received.
  13. Mike55

    Fuel Pump

    Presumably out on the tideway you're running at higher revs than on a canal, so using more fuel so the limitations on fuel flow rate due to relying on a gravity feed will be more likely to restrict engine performance/running.
  14. That's an understatement. Easy start is terrible stuff and damages engines and makes them harder to start in the future, requiring more easy start, causing more damage, requiring more easy start etc. etc. Easy start is highly volatile which starts the engine, but it also washes the lubricating oil off the cylinder walls thereby increasing wear of the piston rings & cylinders. This reduces the compression ratio of the engine due to leakage past the wear and makes the engine harder to start next time. Easy start is the mark of a cowboy.
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