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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble


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    Diglis Basin

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  1. Great video, thanks for sharing. Must visit this place one day. I'm amazed how big the K2's look, I suppose in my engine room, I'm looking down on the engine so although still big, it doesn't look quite so big, if that makes sense! He seemed to rev them fairly high but still look very smooth, I would be sending ripples out rocking all the boats in the marina at anywhere near max revs!! I just wondering if they would miss one of their K2's, I could do with one for spares which hasn't been cooled by salty water.
  2. A number of ways to do it. Hadn't thought about condensation, it will not seal air tight when closed so there will still be some air flow but I have seen some with brass ventilation grids on the ends - will just have to wait and see. The reason I'm fitting it is to provide more light over the galley (small portholes on my superstructure) and to let the cooking fumes out. I have a second pigeon box already fitted over the engine room but that doesn't have port holes (another one of those jobs on the list!) and is always open so condensation is not a problem.
  3. I jig sawed the holes out completely. The nuts on the back will show but my interior is very industrial so will blend in.
  4. Taken me years to find a square hole drill so I'm sorry, but not going to let it go lol
  5. Thanks for all the suggestions, will try with o rings and sealant. The holes in my pigeon box were badly cut, looks like they were cut freehand with gas which looked terrible from below so I cut them out completely with a jigsaw and made a plate to fit over with holes cut using a hole saw. Fitted the plate with coach bolts to look like rivets (lots of "rivets" on my boat) also drilled some square holes to mount the pigeon box with "rivets".
  6. Thanks for suggestion. I did have a look but the problem with the pigeon box porthole is that they are only 82mm dia so difficult to bend a edge seal around - needs to be a formed seal to glass diameter. It did get me thinking and just purchased from Ebay some 4mm cross section 82mm o/d o rings which will hold the glass in place on one side along with some Sikaflex on the other side to seal it - unless someone comes up with a better suggestion!
  7. I'm fitting portholes to a pigeon box. The recess in the brass porthole is 7mm, the glass only 3mm thick so leaving a 4mm gap to fill. What is the normal way to fix and seal the glass? it seems a wide gap to completely fill with sealant. My intention was to use Sikaflex to seal the glass and then use it again on the brass porthole frame to the steel pigeon box but I am now thinking it might be better to make a gasket to fill in the gap.
  8. Replacing a Gardner with a Kelvin, I like it but surprised that hasn't raised a few comments! I suspect you have tried the usual places for Kelvin spares including Phill Trotter, I was searching on appo duc and found he was selling T3 & T8 bits but in the background of the photos are a good few J's and K's spares including heads and barrels but, getting him to part with them may be a tall order! Good luck with the rebuild.
  9. Yes it is the day tank and No, the rivets are false - A bit like the boat which is a Barry Hawkins copy of a R W Davis copy of a Northwich Trader complete with false rivets even, for reasons I've never been able to work out, below the water line!
  10. Are you hoping to put them to use one day? or are you looking for a Kelvin owner to give them a new forever home?
  11. Final couple of pictures of completed installation:
  12. Just thought I'd post an update: Work progressing, manifold is fitted and engine rebuilt. Just some pipework required to complete - waiting for some 28mm copper to be delivered.
  13. Just one head. No Kelvin club that I know of. There is a Kelvin facebook page and of course Mike Skyner web site (sky-net.org.uk) which as been my main source of Kelvin info.
  14. OK, Looks like I will have to remove the head completely. Back on the boat this afternoon so will have another play.
  15. Going from the spares manual, there is a cylinder head joint. I'm hoping that because the head movement will only be a fraction of a degree, then I will get away with maintaining a good seal. The more I work on my Kelvin, I think having an genuine Kelvin took kit (as originally supplied with these engines) would make engine maintenance a lot easier - I wonder if one still exist anywhere?
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