tosher

1 There were just a few bubbles that seemed to be full of water when I scraped them off but the metal under these was not shiny. 2 No - they were spaced randomly along the hull and on the base plate, not around the anodes.

I had a similiar experience but with a GI fitted. What I took for galvanic corrosion were small areas about the size of a pea, rusty looking round the edges and almost like shiny solder in the centre, a silvery colour. Is that what galvanic corrotion looks like ?? Does anyone have any pictures of the real thing? tosher.

Any one know if/when the above might happen ????

EXACTLY !!!!

I had a pram cover from Wilsons two years ago, there was a couple of false starts but eventually they showed up and it was made and fitted. I am quite pleased with it and no leaks yet but wouldn't call it a brilliant job. I am now looking at having a cratch & cover fitted but not sure if I will use them again although I might be persuaded by the 5 year warranty they now give.

There are two sides to every story. A friend had some paintwork done on his boat there earlier this year, very poor job indeed. The jungle telegraph has it that many boaters are waiting to leave when their contracts end. To leave before the end of a contract is quite expensive even if you give the statutory notice required. This is due to the method of mooring fee payment they operate and ANNUAL deposits that all berth holders have to pay. Couldn't agree more about the location though.

I wonder just how widespread this practice is as the same thing happened to me with a boat for sale at Braunston Marine. I travelled 90 miles to view it but was told it was sold when I arrived. Needless to say I never went there again.

I often cruise for days without using my BT but it's battery is being charged, I often tie up for days on shore power without using my BT but it's battery is being charged. Are you saying that a Smartgauge will not give an accurate SOC under these conditions? I'm a bit puzzled/

Thanks Dominic M, I do everything you suggest except disconnecting the pump supply pipe. Will do that in future. The 15mm pipe lagging was only £1.99 for 5 x 1 metre lenghts from Focus so cheap enough.

I suffered very similar frost damage last winter as well, three pipe failures all on 90deg HEP20 bends onto copper pipe. Also blew the bottoms out of the domestic water filter bowls and split the bath tap wide open. I have now lagged all the pipework but still drain all the domestic water system and leave taps open just to be sure.

I'd be happy with the following :- Remote display. Services Batteries - Amps in/out, Volts, State of charge. Eng & BT batteries - Volts, State of charge.

Both the "smartbank" and "PGM/Batt2" indicators glow when the screen is inactive, too faint to see during the day but can be clearly seen in total darkness. tosher.

Done in one hop, takes about 4 hours. Will take longer of you stop at Litherland services or Tesco's.

Good idea to have the engine serviced some time before the actual trip. It's suprising how many people seem to have problems soon after a service. tosher

We also moored at bridge 9 overnight in July without any problems. It is very close to the "Canal Turn" on Aintree race course and there is a convenient hole in the fence where some folk sneak through to stand on the course. It was only later that we heard people saying it's safer to moor at bridge 10. tosher.

If the amount charged for a licience is not based on usage, why do I pay more for my 57ft boat than a person with a 45ft boat ????

That is what I did when converting from a lifting hatch to a sliding hatch. Flat brass strip on the hatch support frame and nylon flat strip on the underside of the hatch. Works a treat and very easy to slide.

Hi Sue, I have a JVC 19in (LT-19 something or other) bought from Comet about 5 months ago, can't remember the exact model number and I'm not on the boat at present to check it. I bought a 12v/12v stabilised supply from maplins for about £30 which plugs into a 12 volt 3 pin socket on the boat and then into the 12 volt socket on the rear of the TV. It works very well, is a really good picture and seems to pull in a good signal in areas where the previous TV would not. The only slight negative is that the sound quality is just a bit tinny but very pleased with the TV in general and no regrets about buying it. Only time will tell how reliable it is. Hope that helps --- tosher.

. On a linked matter, the Smartgauge website indicates (to me) that the gauge can only monitor two battery banks and I plan to have three. Does this mean I need to purchase a 2nd Smartgauge to go with the SmartBank setup? Mine only monitors the "state of charge" of one bank, it does monitor & indicate the voltage of two banks but the SOC of only one. Mine is 2 years old, the latest model may be different.

I was also given the same advice from Rylards, they also said that the Premium was "more aggressive" at bonding to the old blacking (Rytex in my case). I followed this advice and did as they suggested except that I finished with a top coat of Rytex as I prefer the mat finish. This was well over two years ago and when we had a quick lift out a couple of weeks ago for a prop change the blacking still looked in very good condition and fit for at least another year.

Measured mine last time we slipped, it's 12 inches. 57 ft hull with 17 x 12 prop & 42 hp engine. steers a treat. tosher

My Vetus 55 bow thruster has started misbehaving after 3 years use. When in service the motor speed is very erratic changing from normal to almost stopped, slightly worse in one direction, almost as if the batteries are shot (2 x Numax Marine110ah). I have done the following :- Had the batteries checked at a battery dealer with a digimeter type tester and also a drop tester and they hold volts ok under heavy load so declared healthy; checked prop and no debris; All connections on motor and batteries cleaned and tightened, checked motor brushes and not much wear and free to move in boxes. None of which made much difference. The only other thing I can think of that might cause the problem is the motor contacts but I don't know how to get to them and a bit afraid of doing some damage. So PLEASE could anyone help me with a discription (foto's if pos) of how to remove and replace these contacts. Help would be much appreciated. Many thanks. ---- tosher

Just spoken to "CATFLAP" who was in that area today but the key's don't belong to them. They said thanks anyway. tosher