tosher
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Posts posted by tosher
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I have a Shurflo that has worked well for 5 years but it is very noisy dispite all attempts to muffle the sound.
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I had a lovely meal at the Red Lion on Saturday...
Casp'
So did I and very satisfied. It's by the church for anyone trying to find it. tosher
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Three allow port 26 which my email provider has enabled to get around this problem (not only with Three) but your email provider will have to enable this.
if you try 465 which is not disabled by Three then you will have to set Secure Authentication for Outlook to work properly.
The next step is to ask your email provider what other ports they allow.
Thanks for all the advice, tried everything without success. Next step is to contact my ISP. Will post if successful. tosher
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Three annoyingly blocks port 25 which is the standard port for SMTP outgoing mail. If you can receive but not send, this is probably the problem. You need to change the port for the outgoing mail server in Outlook Express. Typical ports that your mail provider might support are 587 and 465. Try both, one may work.
Thanks for that nickorman. It is as you describe - I can receive but not send. I have just tried both 587 & 465 in the outgoing mail server but afraid both failed to work. ????
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Help -- I use a 3 Dongle with my laptop top get internet access when onboard the boat. My ISP is Force 9 (Plus Net) who use "Squirel Mail" to send and receive e-mails. This is a bit restrictive and not as easy to use as Outlook express. I can use Outlet Express ok when at home on my broadband connection but can't seem to make it work with the Dongle. Is it possible to use Outlook Express with a 3 Dongle? and if so how??? Thanks. tosher.
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Inlet, outlet, breather and it needs a sump with a drain tap/plug to remove the water that will accumulate.
Outlet needs to be on the top with a pickup pipe down to the bottom. Also the tank needs to be pressure tested.
That's for starters
Just a quick question - when the suction pipe enters through the top of the tank, how close to the bottom of the tank should the end of the pipe be? Thanks. tosher.
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I see that Waterscape still says that "from 3rd June until further notice" due to a police incident the narrow locks are closed and all craft must use the large locks.
Is this still true or have they merely forgotten to take the notice off the website?
Yes, came through yesterday. The walkway across the lock gates is still closed but the bridge is right next to the lock. It's the bottom lock out onto the river.
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I think you will find that lumpy water boat engines tend to be run at higher revs for much longer periods than canal engines[ie, south coast Portsmouth area to France Cherburg 60ish miles at approx 2750/3000 revs no shutting down for moored boats/locks + engines in narrow boats tend to be in 1400/2000 rev range] + more revs = more fuel consumed
I think this is the main reason + smaller props. When we are cruising a section of cut with a lot of locks close together our fuel consumption per hour is considerably less than when we are cruising on a long lock free section.
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All "Propane" bottles from all suppliers use the same fitting - a left hand POL fitting (also used for acetylene), "Patio Gas" (AIUI) is just propane
in a bottle with a "company specific" quickfit coupling, most Butane bottles have company specific quickfit couplings.
From calor's site - 3.9Kg - £15.49 = 397 p/Kg
6 Kg - £ 19.99 = 333 p/Kg
13 Kg - £25.49 = 196 p/Kg
Quite a difference to my mind.
This page shows the exchange options calor exchange groups
It seems that anything is freely exchangable for anything, except 6Kg bottles which can only be swapped for 6Kg bottles !
I changed my 13KG bottles for 6KG bottles at Build Base with no hassle at all, a straight swap. Looking at the Calor web site it states that the Recommended Offtake for a 13KG bottle is 15KW compered to the Recommended Offtake for a 6KG bottle is 11KW. Does that mean that the heat content of a 6KG bottle is roughly 75% of a 13KG one ????
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I believe Tam & Di are right. Its BW conditions on opening a marina that all boats are licensed. The marina operator then enforces the condition on the moorer. The water you are standing on is null & void if the marina has a private source of supply like a stream or underground source. Your licence is a licence to navigate and if you don't move out of the marina your are not navigating your are mooring so why should you need a licence. I also believe that BW imposes conditions on marinas that they have to pay an annual levy on the total number of berths provided even if they are not let. Its a good way for BW to obtain income and someone else do the work of collection. It is possibley the reason why BW want to try and get rid of all online mooring by moving boats into marina's so still keeping income from mooring but without having to actually have the hassle of providing it.
Someone posted a while ago that this connection charge is around 10% of the annual mooring fee the marina charges for each berth (ultimately paid for by the berth holders). So if you keep your boat in a marina the true cost of navigating on the canals is your Licence fee + 10% of your marina berthing fee which for a 57 foot boat (£722pa) in modern marina (10% of 2200pa) is Very expensive.
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I am thinking of replacing some of my halogen light bulbs with LED's to reduce power consumption but want to keep the original light fittings. Is this as easy as the advertising blurb suggests and are the LED's as bright as they say. The ones which look ok to the untrained eye are from "Bedazzled" and they claim they are just as bright as the comparable halogen bulb. Anyone tried them ?????
What fantastic responses to my post, just what I was hoping for, they answer all my questions and some that I hadn't even known about. I now feel much more relaxed about changing to LED's. Thanks to all - tosher.
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I am thinking of replacing some of my halogen light bulbs with LED's to reduce power consumption but want to keep the original light fittings. Is this as easy as the advertising blurb suggests and are the LED's as bright as they say. The ones which look ok to the untrained eye are from "Bedazzled" and they claim they are just as bright as the comparable halogen bulb. Anyone tried them ?????
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The same happened to me. I repaired it and it lasted about another 3 years of liveaboard use (5 in total so not bad). I replaced it with a Jabsco Parmax 3 last year.
I have a Shureflow Aquaking that is still working ok after 4 years use, the only problem is that it is Very Noisey. How did you find the Jabsco compered particularly noise wise ??? I'm thinking of changing to the Jabsco if they are quieter. Thanks tosher.
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Charge the batt fully, then count how many amp hours can be used until the batt voltage remains below 12.2V all the time (or your Smartgauge says 50%).
Double the figure and compare it to the batt's rated capacity, to get some idea of the batt's 'state of health'.
cheers,
Pete.
Thanks for that smileypete I will try your method using my smartgauge, it sounds a bit easier than Gibbo's explanation which is a bit beyond me I'm afraid. tosher.
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Yes it's costing more in fuel but that is always the case when absorption charging, with new batts we could nearly halve our daily charge time as we could just stay in bulk instead of being mostly in absorption as we are now, but more often than not we cruise for longer than that anyway so on balance we can stick with present batts. Gibbo reckons we have about 45% of our 480ah (24v) left which is still a reasonable amount, just the same as nearly 4 batts instead of our eight.
Difficult call but as batts are giving stable supply I think sticking with them is still ok for a while besides being a northern git I am a bit reluctant to spend money.
Any idea how he worked out the remaining capacity?? I seem to be in a similar position to you regarding failing battery capacity and would like to be able to confirm this before spending big. tosher.
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I pay Council tax to my LA. This means that I contribute to the sevices that they provide. When I go elsewhere then I use other LAs' facillities and CT payers from other areas who visit my LA use mine. This is fair enough. We have paid our shares.
If I pay no CT to anyone then I am benefitting from LA provided facillities, without contributing, wherever I am.
What is silly and ill considered about that?
I'm with you on that one AlanH and very many boaters I've spoken to over the years feel that way too.
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I bought a boat from Harral in 2007, very UNimpressed. They were slow with sending me details after my initial enquiry and when they did arrived they were very poor and next to useless. It was only after meeting and talking to the owners that I decided to buy. After completing the sale Harrals charged me £240 to lift the boat into the water (yes -£240 for a one way lift). I moved the boat to it's new moorings (20 miles away) and waited for the lift that Harrals had promised so that I could collect my car from their yard. After several days the lift eventually arrived and guess what , they charged me for the petrol !!!!! It would never deal with them again.
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OK, I was guessing about 17 x 12.
Crowthers calculated 17 x 10.
I was slightly surprised as I expected the pitch to remain at 12".
Anyway, was just wondering if there was anywhere else where I could get a second check just to confirm before I lashed out a wad of money.
Heres the spec I know for anyone who may be able to do some sums:
48' narrowboat.
Isuzu 35 engine (max rpm 3000)
PRM 120 2:1 gearbox (I think its 2:1 anyway)
I presume about standard weight and draft for the size of boat.
I know its a bit of a black art but once its on, its on......
Does anyone know any manufacturers who could give me the size on this data?
Cheers
Frank
If you decide to go down the 17 x 12 route I have one for sale. Very little used & like new. PM me for details if interested.
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2 questions :
1) did you notice any regular bubbles of different sizes in the coating around (1 to 4 cm diameter)?
2) were those "peas" in little groups, mostly around anode's areas?
1 There were just a few bubbles that seemed to be full of water when I scraped them off but the metal under these was not shiny.
2 No - they were spaced randomly along the hull and on the base plate, not around the anodes.
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Couple of points.
1. How do you know it's galvanic corrosion? What are you using as an indicator that it's that as opposed to plain old rust?
2. Have you checked the installation? I know lots of "boat electrical engineers" who don't know how to wire an isolation transformer up and still get the incoming shorepower earth connected to the hull.
I had a similiar experience but with a GI fitted. What I took for galvanic corrosion were small areas about the size of a pea, rusty looking round the edges and almost like shiny solder in the centre, a silvery colour. Is that what galvanic corrotion looks like ?? Does anyone have any pictures of the real thing? tosher.
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Thanks very much for the replys.
Looks like i had better keep plenty of cash in my back pocket and watch out for the 20% off days at Midland Chandlers
Any one know if/when the above might happen ????
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Forgive me, but I always thought pram-covers were for babies..
Tone (bedraggled)
EXACTLY !!!!
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I had a pram cover from Wilsons two years ago, there was a couple of false starts but eventually they showed up and it was made and fitted. I am quite pleased with it and no leaks yet but wouldn't call it a brilliant job. I am now looking at having a cratch & cover fitted but not sure if I will use them again although I might be persuaded by the 5 year warranty they now give.
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I would agree with Dor that Aqueduct is the ideal marina location in that part of the country, mid-way between the Shroppie and the T&M within easy reach of beautiful and historic destinations in all directions.
Having had my boat painted there last spring I can vouch for the friendly service. I'm not surprised there is a waiting list.
For a big marina, Overwater is attractively laid out and should look good once the landscaping has matured. I hope they are going to make a feature of that island. I like the village of Audlem very much.
There are two sides to every story. A friend had some paintwork done on his boat there earlier this year, very poor job indeed. The jungle telegraph has it that many boaters are waiting to leave when their contracts end. To leave before the end of a contract is quite expensive even if you give the statutory notice required. This is due to the method of mooring fee payment they operate and ANNUAL deposits that all berth holders have to pay. Couldn't agree more about the location though.
Best pump for water
in Boat Equipment
Posted
It is mounted on a wooden pad with rubber feet between the pad and the wooden floor and it is fixed in the bottom of a cupboard under a false floor. I have tried wrapping it in old towels, bubble wrap and various other things with very little reduction in noise. However I have not tried propper sound insulation foam and the pump is connected to solid plastic pipes not flexibles. Will try as you suggest when next onboard, thanks for the advice. tosher