tosher
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Posts posted by tosher
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When I bought my new Izusu engine some years ago, it included a 1 day engine maintenance course at their assembly factory. On this course they recommended exactly what you suggest, periodically running the engine at full power for 10 to 15 minutes. Canal or river bank permitting of course.
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Absolutely brilliant, thanks for sharing it with us.
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Run it and time it till the fuse blows. Now deduct a few seconds and this is how long you should have run it for....
MB (etc)
If adopting this approach bear in mind that replacement slow blow fuses cost about £10 each.
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We are leaving Nantwich tonight, heading down the Shroppie, then Staffs & Worcs. to Stourport then down the Severn to Worcester. Hoping to fit in the new Droitwich Ring while we are there.
Wave to Aeshna if you see it passing!
Just done the Severn from Stourport to Gloucester and back. No trouble at all and water levels are at normal summer level. The river is lovely you will enjoy it. Have fun. tosher.
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I too would recommend Elecsol batteries. Mine are open lead acid carbon fibre construction type and in their 6th year of service. Can't comment on customer service as never had to contact them.
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It would be handy to know if anyone can find out if these filters will pass a BSS examination as we would like on fitted to NC. Currently we have a metal filer with a metal drain plug fitted to the tank but the only way to check the quality of the fuel is to drain some off periodically. It would be helpful for us to be able to check at a glance wether we have dirty fuel particually before heading out onto the coast.
My feelings as well. A lot easier to check with a transparent bowl than messing about draining fuel off.
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What have you tried?
Mount it on rubber, wood then rubber again, in a box with sound insulation form. Use flexible hose to connect the pump up.
Edit to add this link... http://www.soundservice.co.uk/enclosure_kits.html
Another edit, do use MDF for the enclosure. It's quite dense so is good for blocking sound.
Well I finally got round to doing something about my noisy Shureflow water pump, I bought a new Jabsco pump and installed it as suggested above (except for the box) and the difference is remarkable. It is now almost silent, the trick seems to be multi layers of rubber and the flexible hose connections onto the pump. Thanks again for the help.
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When we picked our second hand boat up last week the bow thrusters were working fine, now when the button is operated for the thrusters it just makes a clicking sound what do i look for. cheers
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There should be a 250amp (depending on thruster size) slow blow fuse in the motor circuit mounted between the motor and it's battery. If you have been operating the thruster continously for longer than about 10 seconds or operating it repeatedly many times this fuse may have blown. Easy to replace but cost about a tenner.
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I do not see what there is not to understand:-
View Posttosher, on 13 March 2012 - 08:27 PM, said:
"Newton Crum" - Helmsman's policy states "Dehumidifiers and heaters, unless Certified Rated for Marine use, must not be left on unattended overnight"
Thanks for the information.
I think this needs the widest publicity in narrowboating circles because the use of both are far from uncommon.
From memory they will also not allow the loan of the boat (with NO form of payment) to extended family and close friends - I did not bother to get them to tell me who I could loan it to.
My misunderstanding came about because in my earlier post I referred to "Newton Crums" insurance policy and in your reply to that post you used the word "they". I automatically assumed you were refering to the same company. My mistake.
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Not according to an email my insurance company sent me before I took the policy. I do have to ensure they are competent to handle the boat though.
You have me worried now --- I don't fully understand your post, the wording I used was taken directly from the policy I received three days ago. I do have to satisfy myself they are competent to handle the boat but who would loan there boat to some one without doing this.
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So provided that it's got a time switch that only turns it on during the day when unattended you'll be ok....?
Good thinking!
Just for completness I must point out that the piece was edited after it left me. The first paragraph as I wrote it said: "I recently read about a clause in a boat insurance policy that could have profound effects upon a significant number of boaters. I cannot attest to the veracity of the information but the implications are so important I think a warning is appropriate."
Thanks for the information.
I think this needs the widest publicity in narrowboating circles because the use of both are far from uncommon.
From memory they will also not allow the loan of the boat (with NO form of payment) to extended family and close friends - I did not bother to get them to tell me who I could loan it to.
"Loaning Craft" does include cover for owners immediate family. For others the owner must supply details of borrowers to the insurance company.
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They defiantly said they had such a clause so if its not on CWF I must have read it on one of the Newsgroups or NBW, but I am sure it was not the latter.
Found it on the Cutweb board. I quote part of the message:-
"We recently renewed the insurance cover.
We noted that our insurers have added two new 'get out' clauses.
(1) The use of de-humidifiers will not be paid by the insurers if they cause
damage when the vessel is left un-attended - unless they have specified for
marine use.
(2) The same as above but in relation to heaters unless they are specified for
marine use.
Presumably these items have been identified to cause losses of insurance claims
I assume by fire?
My question is: Are there any makes of de-humidifiers/heaters that are deemed
suitable for use on boats?"
"Newton Crum" - Helmsman's policy states "Dehumidifiers and heaters, unless Certified Rated for Marine use, must not be left on unattended overnight"
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be careful when you clean the contacts. They are plated and abrasive will make them worse in a short time.
Yes indeed, I used my wife's nail polishing card to to dress up the contacts, the smoothest one she had, then just rubbed up with a cloth. Worked fine but will have to see how long they last.
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I had some trouble with my Vetus 55kg BT after 5 years use, speed was very erratic in one direction. The problem was a bad contact on the brush leads under the securing screw. These units are quite robust but are likely to misbehave sometimes. It is a DIY job to remove the motor, remove and clean the brushes, clean the comm, strip down the contactor and clean the contacts then replace. A good fettle up like this will usually solve most problems and it really is not difficult.
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In other words they will not pay for the new wiring loom or the huge labour costs of replacing it, but will pay for the replacement of the oil filter that was damaged in the resultant fire.....
Just a thought, from the OP's description of what happened it would appear quite possible that only one wire (or maybe two wires) were faulty that caused the engine to start. All other electrical systems seemed to be behaving normally at the time. So is it correct to blame the whole wiring loom for the fire when only a couple a wire were responsible.????
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My bet would be condensation, especially if the engine is run in these sub zero temperatures. If it is a leak then the source must be identified.
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Yes, you are all correct. I conducted a little experiment which seems to prove the point. With a fog light and meter connected to the battery, I tilted and rocked the battery, the light went intermittently dull and bright, and the voltage oscilated between 12.8v and below 5v, which suggests that there is conductive debris in the bottom of at least one cell causing a partial short.
The old battery is now outside waiting to be taken to the tip, and I am looking for a replacement. Unfortunately the 644 battery is difficult to find in battery supply companies, and the Chandlers only had the 643 in stock. They could all order one for me but at £110/£125 I thought that was a bit steep, so it looks like the internet.
So far I have come up with three possibilities - Numax at £87, Advanced Battery Supplies at £85, and Griffin at £80. (all including delivery). The only make I have actually heard of is Numax, which I believe are made (or marketed) by Varta, The Advanced battery looks identical to the Numax, but the advert states that the colour may vary, suggesting that they source from different manufacturers. The Griffin makes strong claims but I have never heard of them.
So my next question is what experience do others have of any of these makes, and does anyone know of a cheaper source?
I have had a Numax engine start battery for 6 years now and it's still going strong but my engine alway's starts first turn of the key so the battery has never done any serious cranking. Not onboard at the moment so can't give full details, I can only remember it says "Numax Heavy Duty" on it. (Hope I'm not tempting fate with this post)
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Ok I accept that I was lucky with my Elecsol bateries. What do we know about Alphaline? cadmium lead batteries
I must lucky too, now into my 6th year with my Elecsols and still going strong dispite abusing them badly for the first 2 years through lack of propper monitoring/charging.
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Hi Tosher
I gave the black plastic ball and alloy housing to an engineer freind of mine and asked him how I should fit on to the other. Whilst we were talking he had fitted it by hand! I didnt notice he was manipulating it whilst we were talking. I asked him to show me what he did, and he just offered the ball into the back of the housing, it will only go one way, with the two cut outs. Push it well in with your thumbs, a bit of fairy liquid on the o ring will help, then manipulate the ball around in the housing. It has to be "lined up" quite accurately, but it will go. Magic. No big hammers, no vices. It works, try it.
Regards Coll
Thanks for that "collontheavon" it sounds like it is exactly what I wanted to know. I will try it on an old one I have at home and see if it works for me, will keep you posted, Thanks again - tosher.
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Hi Tim. Yes you have got the one. Cast ally housing, two cut outs The "plastic" bushes I got from Midland Chandlers £18.00. To get the old one out I had to give it a good few blows with a plastic faced mallet. Tried the same to get it back in again but the bush wont go, afraid of breaking the cast ally housing really. To see what the bush looks like try the M C website its a SG-043 Warstock bush 1.5 inch.
Coll
Watching this thread with interest as I tried and failed to change mine for exactly the same reason. Ended up just changing the "O" ring even though there was some wear on the nylon bush.
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I think it is essential to use some form of change over arrangement. I used a switch like the one mentioned above, double pole and 4 positions, OFF-1-2-3. I use positions 1 or 2 for shore power and 3 for inverter output. Got it from Puffer Parts for about £25ish and works a treat.
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These de sulphaters are built into the chargers for items like fork lifts where the discharge each day is well over 50 % and clearly helps the recovery from deeper discharge .The fork lift makers and battery suppliers would not endorse them /validate the warrantee if it was not to there advantage.
These de-sulphaters were discussed on the forum quite some time ago and I seem to remember some knowledgable person posting saying that the more expensive Sterling multistep chargers have this facility built in. Anyone remember that?
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Same problem here, tried Internet explorer, Mozzila and 3 dongle but all the same. Fine now.
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You only have to take a boat through a few of locks to relise that it is/would be far more awkward if another boat was tied up on the lock moorings. For some one to own a boat for 12/18 months, even if it's not moved very far, and not realise that is a bit beyond me I'm afraid.
Disconnecting alternators prior to welding
in Boat Building & Maintenance
Posted
It sounds like a bargain to me if he is a good competent welder. I paid about £400 for my complete job. It was welded in ok with the boat still in the water and solved my engine cooling problems. Remember may have to increase the size of your coolant expansion bottle. --- tosher.