dave moore

Hi Try Sherborne Wharf (Earle Wightman) who may be able to help. It's a short taxi ride from the yard to the main railway stations. 01214556163. Site is secure and close to the sea life centre. Hope this helps Cheers Dave

Hi all I use string stretched across the upper third of the plate and loop it over small pins hammered into the timber, haven't lost a plate in years! (touch wood!!). I agree with the unsuitability of plate hangers, especially with the vibration genertated by the Kelvin that powers the boat. I like to hang lots of plates and overlap them to pack them in, just like many old boaters did. They can rattle against each other and I add very untraditional blobs of Blu Tak to contact ares between adjacent plates to minimise this. Cheers Dave

Hi All good advice here in my opinion. If you're going for a traditional look to your lettering you won't go far wrong. Things developed over a long time and you have a degree of protection in holding to proven layouts. I'm not bidding to letter your boat....but I respectfully suggest that you talk to your intended writer and canvass opinion as to shading colours etc; most us have a sound idea of what works thro' sheer experience, an expertise that the customer doesn't always have. The result should proclaim pride of ownership and turn heads for the right reasons. Good luck! Cheers Dave Moore

Hi James Loader is currently owned by Peter Boyce who also owns the star class butty Betelgeuse, so it could well have been that boat. Hope this helps Cheers Dave Moore

Hi Andy and Ben Thanks for that, I knew someone would know! I'll ring Bunny and let him know. If any other members have extra info, please share. Thanks Dave

Hi all Last nught I was chatting to another painter, Martin "Bunny" Bunford who was active in the 60s/70s decorating and writing boats. ( we hadn't spoken since the 60s) Bunny owned Gifford when Claytons ceased carrying in '66 and before she was owned by the late Edward Paget Tomlinson. During the course of the conversation he asked about the Clayton motor Umea. I'm sure I've seen it, but can't recall where or when. I'm sure someone will be able to put some flesh on this historic bone. Thanks in advance Dave

Hi Rob For me - don't go there! I think I know what Roger (and Graham Edgson) would say..... Best wishes Dave

Hi If using ordinary red oxide, please bear in mind that it's not waterproof like gloss paint and I certainly wouldn't apply it in a permanently damp area. Craftmasters Radddle Red has the waterproof qualities of gloss in a matt finish (and variety of colours) which I suggest may be appropriate. Personally, I'd prime first anyway! Cheers Dave (belt and braces) Moore

Hi I run a J3 in Resolute and oil round the rocker box, water pump and governor rod ends with straight SAE30 Morris oil, the same as is in the crankcase and gearbox. I only use 3 in 1 for control rod bushes, it's way too thin IMHO for engine use. If I can help/advise further, PM me for a contact No. Cheers Dave

Hi Graham If you can remove the slides for a while and dry them out, I'd recommend that you strip them completely and apply a couple of coats of resin (West system or similar) before priming and repainting in the usual way. We id this with all the external woodwork on Resolute and have had no problems over the past 8 years. PM me for further details if I can be of help. Cheers Dave

Hi The J3 in Resolute was rebuilt by Seaward Engineering in Glasgow. Andy and John seved their apprenticships with Kelvin and painted the engine with what they assured us was the correct colour, if you have access to July 06 Waterways world then there's a featured photo there. I don't recall the colour details (and have repainted the engine since) but they should be able to help. Phone No is 0141 632 4910. PM me if I can help further. Cheers Dave

Hi The "down the end of...Cannock" is Norton Canes boatduilders...hardly close, and CTS next door can also handle the job. NCBB cover the cabin and seal off so that there's no damage to the paint job. Good luck with the search. PM me if you want contact Nos Dave

Hi I think that this was built by Harborough Marine. Can't help with the heater! I stand to be corrected, post on a gut instinct from long ago! Cheers Dave

Hi all This is a common problem, regardless of paint type. Any permanently wet spots are likely to suffer similarly, I've seen it often on roofs as described. The modern practice of coiling a rope (often a centre line) is a regular culprit. I keep Resolute's roof as clear as possible and move the gang plank stands regularly so that no damp spot is there too long. Beware! Cheers Dave

Hi Not sure if this helps but I knew of a 70' wooden conversion in the 60s called Jimmy which I think may have been a Ricky. The then owner was Garth Allan who is still around and is now a part of the Guild of Waterways Artists. He may have some useful knowledge...but it's all long ago now! Cheers Dave

Hi all Mary Parry, who lives canalside at Tyrley top lock on the Shroppie maks both belts and bonnets and supplies kits should you wish to make your own. If anyone's interested, PM me and I'll furnish contact details. I believe that she has also produced an instructional pamphlet sold at Ellesmere Port museum. A valuable Guild member! She has recently started running workshops too. Hope this helps Dave

Hi all I too recall my grandmother podging rag rugs in the Black country in the early 50s and IIRC she used old jackets/coats cut into strips as the raw material. I can't say for certain whether they were commonly used by working boaters. Certainly agree with the earlier post about lino being more practical...we have one in Resolute's cabin and it needs a regular wash to keep it clean. Towpaths are dirtier, grittier places than many think. Off topic, I know, but still history - the latest WW has a feature about the "Battle of Stourbridge" in the early 60s. The young lad perched on Bumblebee's 'ellum is yours truly, aged 13!!! Cheers Dave

That's exactly what I meant! Cheers Dave

Hi I hope that the following helps. First, I endorse the previous post about using fine line tape and masking out for what I've always known as the "Mouses Ears" on the stern bulkhead. Most paint docks use a template of some sort for the shape, usually for the upper line. You can cut one from hardboard, or use a large sheet of card. As a right hander, I'd do the right hand half and then flip it to draw the left hand half. To draw on gloss paint I use either a chinagraph pencil or a Stabilo, available from drawing office suppliers, art shops etc. Having drawn the upper line (Hopefully dodging hinges, air vents etc) I mark the position of the lower line by using a 1" wide card strip about 7" long. I mark off the top line, with a series of dashes about 2" apart below (the card spacer gives me a constant 1"gap). You can then either apply the fine lining tape to the top line and the dashes (or join the dashes with the pencil first if less confident). follow this with rough masking usind 1" wide tape and you're ready to flat back the gloss and start painting. I usually cut thro the tape where the rear door joins the bulkhead as someone is bound to open the doors and dislodge the tape otherwise. It's not a difficult job to do but it is exacting to set up accurately. Straight coach lines....most yards will place masking tape where the lines are to go then tape above and below with quality masking tape (I favour Kleenedge from Limekiln Chandlers) , pulling off the original tape to leave a gap. The feathering out method, mentioned earlier, can often be seen under the main colour topcoat. Finally... remove the tape on both jobs ASAP. I don't bother letting the paint dry totally before removing tape. If you need further clarification PM me and I'll talk you through the process. Good luck! Dave

Hi all I too fail to understand the "Fail if you pump" logic of the RYA examiner. I've always found that I can turn more quickly in a confined space with this technique than simply by holding the ellum hard over. Quite how the RYA can claim expertise in narrowboats and their handling is also beyond me..... a few years ago I gave Resolute's tiller to a qualified "Boatmaster3" licence holder.....the attempts to remain parallel to the towpath, despite the channel being elsewhere, was painful to behold. When I queried this I was told "The course was mainly theory"....thank Christ I learned to steer with a tiller, not a manual or powerpoint presentation in my hand or before my eyes. Sorry...grump alert!!! Cheers Dave

Hi all Ash is indeed tied outside the paint dock at Norton Canes. The original wooden bottom was replaced with steel, probably within the last 5 years or so, tho' nothing else has happened since then other than bailing to make sure she stays afloat. Despite being there regularly over the last 15 years, I've yet to meet the owner! Cheers Dave

Hi Richard I'm bound to have one in the loft somewhere...please be patient, I've a lot on at the moment! Cheers Dave

Hi all As a traditionalist with a long time around boats, I'm in the "no" camp personally. I don't mind using shafts and or ropes to help manouvre the boat. I also echo the earlier comment of over use of the engine at high power levels for winding etc, a scenario I call "White water rafting". However....a couple of years ago I was decorating a trad tug for a customer and, on expressing surprise at having one, he replied that health problems in advancing age made it difficult to move around as easily as before, this factor was the clincher for him! I couldn't disagree. It's a dilemma I hope to avoid for a long time yet.....just a thought Cheers Dave

Hi Pat I work in the boat business(not a fitter) and know several top quality people I'd happily recommend..the problem is, they are all booked well ahead. It's how the system works. Unless you can hit on someone who's just had a cancellation, I'd counsel patience and suggest you talk to as many owners as possible. PM me if I can help further. Cheers Dave

Hi Horses for courses, I know...my boat has a 5'6" foredeck, 6" cross beam and 8' of tug deck behind, on a 60' Norton Canes shell. Proportions are pleasing. It depends on how important the external aesthetics are for you personally (for us they were crucial). I agree with the earlier post about a 15mm base too. Most output is 10 or 12 these days. If I can help specifically, PM me Cheers Dave