raymondh

Works fer me Ray

I used a Hep2o plastic pipe cutter for all my 95mm cables cut easily and clean, would say any garden secateurs would also work well Ray

Sill going strong and manufactured by the Godfather of rotary race engines right here in good old blighty Talked to him and his guys in the Norton tent at this years IOM Classic where all thr known Norton racing rotarys were either racing or demo lapping at various events over the two weeks Brian's engine although 200 HP is tiny Ray

We have a cheapo induction hob purchased from Lidle or Alde it works great and as it has electronic control of both heat setting and power input is great on low settings for stews etc as well as blasting the cast iron griddle on max for browning steak or "wok-ing" Ray

We are with Craftinsure and from this renewal the 3rd party is up to £5m which is what C&RT require to use the dry dock at Wigan, all others we have contacted are £3m with an extra payment to up to £5m Handy as we are in Wian DD for two weeks in June Premium has gone up by £5 this year despite 8 years of no claims but still competative so we will renew Ray

My system has 3 circuits 7x rads 1 towel rail 1 x calorifier 1 x webasto heater and say 60+ mts pipe perhaps you could suggest a simple clean quick way of draining the system, flushing and refilling then bleeding the rads etc that will take less time than the few mins it takes me to check the effectiveness of the exiting coolant As I stated initially each to their own ways, mine works for me Ray PS I do the same for boat engine,car and motorhome, checking not replacing was the norm in the transport department at the company where I worked over 50 years ago and as I have never had any problems doing this and saved a fortune in time and antifreeze I am happy to continue R.

You will get a lot of conflicting advice on the forum re antifreeze for heating systems but in general the % of antifreeze to water seems agreed at around 25 to 30% Whilst this is good for heat transfer it does not give the required degree of corrosion protction (again some will agree to differ) I check the anti- freezing properties the old way by placing a sample of the coolant in the freezer @ - 18C if it does not freeze then its ok My check for the anti-corrosion properties is a little more basic in that I have a small sample of all the metals in use in the system imemersed in the coolant placed in the freezer which is then left on top of the header tank ready for next year - if the metals show no sign of corrosion I am happy to leave for another year but I do check the sample ongoing I did last year put the product below in the system, its to early to comment but the test samples show no sign of corrosion ANKORSOL ANTI CORROSION FLUID Description Ankorsol is a specially formulated corrosion preventative particularly suited for protecting both ferrous and non-ferrous metals from corrosion in water and/or glycol systems. Ankorsol provides lubricity to aid lubrication of pumps etc. whilst also helping to prevent furring or scaling of pipes. Its unique formulation ensures corrosion protection is possible at relatively low usage concentrations and thereby having minimal effect on cooling efficiency. Ankorsol is free from mineral oil, sodium nitrate and phosphates. It is fully compatible with water, ethylene glycol and propylene glycol at the recommended concentrations, unlike mineral based water-soluble corrosion preventatives. Applications Ankorsol can be used on its own as a corrosion preventative for water systems (typical treatment rate of 3%) or as a supplement for antifreeze (typical treatment rate 2%). It is particularly useful in vehicle cooling systems where a high level of freezing protection is not required, enabling antifreeze to be used at a much reduced concentration whilst maintaining a high level of corrosion protection. Note: Ankorsol at the recommended concentrations in water will not give any protection against freezing. If this is likely to be a problem, additions of antifreeze are recommended. Regards Ray

No probs with either radio format both dab and fm use internal aerials I have ordered two sets of 4 x leds from suppliers in the east, China and HK, cost total of £7 for 8 bulbs delivered Will see how these perform as they are "capsulel" type which I have not used before When I tested the bulbholder temperature at the time of converting to led the halogen heated to nearly 100 C the LED was 26 C Halogen glass capsule on 20 watt lamps have a glass temp of over 300 C Might try setting a LED on fire just to see what happens Ray

Hi, Just measured our "H" valve and its 50mm ctrs same as the compact Ours were fitted Jan 2007 ish so should be same as yours? Again good luck fingers x Ray

Two min search on ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/G4-2W-LED-CAPSULE-BULB-REPLACE-HALOGEN-BULB-DC-12V-24-SMD-3014-LED-LIGHT-LAMPS-/271930347410?var=&hash=item3f504fcf92:m:mhDxh8BawORfqe5zz3U7cpg Will order for my wall lights - others from this supplier have been in use since 2014 without any issues or failures Seems to be more old wives /war stories than actual experience of mass failures when buying direct from China as opposed to via a third party Ray

About 30 led lamps on boat and camper all now from ebay cheap China.Hong Kong stuff all working at up to 14.8v no probs at all Bedazled purchased when boat fitted out all failed just after 12 months and cost a fortune Just check ebay leds are around the 10 to 30 volt spec and ac/dc I buy now and then just to see inrease in light output year on year and have a box of unused leds waiting for a failure All are sourced from the far east and you pay more for the bullship marketing crap that the lamp However its your choice 99p or £9,99 its the same lamp Bedazled do not make lamps or specify bespoke leds from China Ray

Also depending on make safety cut-out devices may be single-use (i.e. must be replaced after they have been activated), or, manually resettable Which type is on your heater? Ray

Be aware that domestic overheat stats may trip when the calorifier is heated by the boats engine "An independent secondary safety stat that is set at a much higher temperature so the engine doesn’t trip the stat unnecessarily. This would happen with a standard domestic immersion." Quote from SureCal website Ray

Are these the same rads as in my link ? Ray

Sorry to read that its corrosion forcing the change and I share the concern above re the other rads Ours is a 2007 build and the heating coolant is tested every year (we have 7 rads + towel rail) and there is no sign of rust or discoloration of the fluid and the antifreeze/inhibitor both check out fine Its powered by a Webasto 90s and run for getting on 7000 hours so used quite a lot? and has two full loop circuits so no dead ends or restricted flow when just used for water heating Please let us know if you find the cause of the corrosion as there are a few 100 out there Regards Ray

Hi, Assuming your rads are the same as mine http://www.purmo.com/en/products/panels/compact-ventil.htm#tab-technical-data I have relocated one and replaced it with a "standard" type not realising that Purmo were available in the UK Its a simple job as the pipework is Hep2o push fit so, at worst a couple of straight connectors and a bit of pipe per rad I would ask why you are changing as the Permo rads "H" type connections are a lot less intrusive than a valve and pipe sticking out of each side Permo are part of the Rettig group ie Myson, Radson etc Good Luck Ray

More like http://www.elyboatchandlers.com/solid-fuel-stove-hardware/morso-narrowboat-offset-flue-kit-62905811?source=Froogle Ray

As C&RT Investment income at £31.1m brings in more cash than Boat licences and moorings at £26.4m I would get rid of the boaters and concentrate on the property side of things Ray B

We have one of these http://ao.com/product/pd1820lfgb-black-decker-18v-flexi-dustbuster-with-floor-extension-handheld-vacuum-cleaner-chrome-37543-58.aspx Works for us Ray

We pay 15p inc vat per Kwh with no standing charge Ray

I use one similar to this http://www.tfc-group.co.uk/assets/graphics/static/STT_RF.pdf As I did not want to run cables around the boat Ray

Whilst moored at a none CRT water marina on the L&L Wigan area almost none of the boats were licenced few had a BSS or insurance and most went on weekend or other jolly's on the canal and only when CRT started checking did those moorers who were "on line" get end of garden and licences/insurance/bss Shock! even boaty folk will pay bugger all if they can get away with it Ray

All the main steel used on our boat was supplied blasted and epoxy primed (see my gallery for pics) it depends on what the builder is prepared to pay Ray

We changed from a 5Kw Webasto to a 90S as the rads did not get passed warm! no real probs exhaust is 38mm so new skin fitting needed rest of syatem left as was, we have room stat and hwcyl stat and TRV's Heater always runs at full power and shuts off when rooms or hw are up to temp, been running now for nearly eight years 6000 ish hours without any maintenance or trouble My thoughts are when it needs service it will stop working and then I will strip it down and see what it looks like Will report when the heater fails to start up Ray

Main use is caravan/motorhomes where weight is king so plastic is number one ceramic for number two's Boats are a small market compared to caravans and motorhomes, in fact the larger caravan/motorhome manufacturers produce more units per year than we have boats on the system Ray