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NikaVinyl

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Posts posted by NikaVinyl

  1. 2 hours ago, Dartagnan said:

    Just discovered that if you download the Lidl+ app you get a voucher for £5 off a £25 in store spend to 3rd Sept.  So add a very cheap item to this £24.99 and it’s a better offer.  You’re welcome ?

    Thank you, but now the complicated part what do they sell for 1p, ohh the stress of life. ?

    • Haha 1
  2. I got my eye on this cordless light coming up for sale at Lidl Sunday 30/08/2020, priced at £24.99.

     

    Magnetic and hooks on both base I would say this is a decent light for the money and boat use, I also do van life so for me very handy.

     

    • Luminous flux: both sides 1,200lm / one side 600lm
    • Lighting duration (fully charged): both sides - 6hrs / one side 9 hrs
    • Power per LED module: 6W
    • Size: L65 x Ø6.5cm
    • Height with tripod: 90cm
    • 3-year warranty

     

     

     

     

    RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS
    • Greenie 2
  3. I moved the boat two locks today both impeller and pump did it's job, as for the new diy water filter, before I took off I managed to cable tie the filter to the leg so it was unable to lift above the water line but yet was not in the way of the leg movement, the filter is working very well better then my flask filter, I might also add the area I am in is known for terrible weeds the prop had to be reversed spun a few times, filter has passed the test and are now available for sale at £2000, joking aside at around £10 per unit I am happy with the result.

  4. On 31/07/2020 at 22:31, Bod said:

    Taper Lock System.

    There will be 3 holes, 2 will/should have grub screws, to be fully removed with a Allen key.

    The 3rd (middle hole) is for removal. Screw 1 of the grub screws into the 3rd hole, this will push apart the 2 sections of the Taper Lock.

    The 3rd removal screw is often hard to screw in, making the whole thing come apart with quite a bang!

    Reassembly, all 3 holes only line up 1 way, refit the grub screws opposite each other.  Leaving the 3rd middle hole empty.

     

    Bod.

    Thanks Bod I appreciate the information.

    On 31/07/2020 at 22:48, Rose Narrowboats said:

    Parts for the 4900 are starting to become hard to get.

     

    I reconditioned two for my own boat last (the first one lasted over 40 years, so I reckon two should see me out...) but in both cases the shafts were worn, and they are no longer available as a spare from Jabsco so we machined some up.

     

    They have a carbon ring rather than conventional packing in the gland - that was still available last time I checked.

     

    Early versions of the pump have replaceable bronze bushes in the end plate and main body for the shaft and a brass wear disc behind the impeller, so as long as you know someone with a lathe they are repairable almost infinitely. Later ones don't have the bushes - but can always be bored out and have them fitted.

     

    Watch out for cracking on the inside face of the endplate - I think they suffer from it if they've been run dry and got too hot.

    The two reasons that I am buying pumps is one to learn and two to source the parts, that said the asap have two shafts in stock for around £80, I am thinking maybe I should buy one.

     

    Thanks for the information.

  5. Thanks Tony, I am going to need advice about the shaft and pulley side of the pumps, and packing the gland, I did not ask you yet as I wanted to get a chance to open and mess about with that side of the pump, this I could not do due to leaving all my spanners on my boat while fixing the main pump at home, so I could not remove the shaft and learn, it is still a closed book, now I have an identical pump, I can now open it and get the picture in my head of the basic's, then I will be able to focus my question to you in such a way that I would understand your answer better, I am a slow learner because I feel I am thorough.

  6. 2 hours ago, Tracy D'arth said:

    Bingo!  Well done.

    You do realise that now you are the forum expert on Jabsco 4900-200 pumps and you will have to answer all the questions?

     

     

    You are enjoying this aren't you?

    Well I am sure I am at the stage of offering basic help, still lots to learn about these pumps, Tony has said some things I need to understand better.

     

    I am enjoying it yes and very happy to have got hold of this 3rd pump, I want to open the front plate to see how worn it is, and check the impeller, but waiting to make a video doing that, which I might do today.

     

     

  7. 7 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:

    Re the pump drip: Did you put new packing in the gland? If so was it the stern gland packing you linked to or did you get the proper pre-fomed stuff? If the latter how did you adjust it?

     

    Use this method - take the belt off, loosen the lock nut and turn the pulley by hand while you gradually tighten the gland nut. When you feel a slight resistance to turning lock tighten the lock nut.

     

    Are you aware that stern glands traditionally are adjusted to drip between once or twice a minute? This is to keep the gland lubricated and cooled. The greaser is used on stern glands to stop the drip when stopped. If you cant adjust the packing to stop a more frequent drip the pump body may be worn but as long as the pump primes OK I would suggest that you live with it. Stick some bilge blankets in the engine tray to absorb the drips.

     

    Re the hole in the transom: We can now see Its above the waterline so for inland use and as long as you don't hold a party at the back I don't think there is much to worry about until you get the boat out of the water. If it worries you put some NON_SILICON sealer around the gap on the outside. Silicon might cause adhesion problems when you come to glass the hole up.

     

    The pump drip is around two every minute so I won't worry about that.

    I am designing a water proof method to secure the hole, but able to release the hose, I have the idea just need to see if I can get the parts.

    First design pipe through boat.JPG

  8. 6 hours ago, Alastair said:

    the bit below the compression fittings; is that a sort of filter?

    If so, I'm very concerned about how close this is to the surface. When moving, there will be a lot of turbulence around this area. You only need a little bit of air sucked into that pipe and the pump can fail to draw. There will then be a cascade of problems; water not being sucked up, impeller running dry, then engine overheating.

     

    I agree with the people who say that your through-hull hole needs a proper fitting.  For now, I'd suggest filling around the hose with silicone.

    I can see and agree (thank you) I have not allowed for the boat moving and how the filter will react, raising the filter is very probable, it was a fine line as to how low it could go due to the prop but I seem to have been over cautious, I also wanted it to be viewable to maintain it, I am going to brace it somehow.

  9. New filter and nice flow.

     

    Tony raised a concern regard the hole for the inlet hose, I share this concern, I can't do a bottom inlet as I am not able to take the boat out of the water for a while, although my boat does need a full repaint and new propeller on the leg, I just have to many commitments this year.

     

    So any ideas how to make the area safe from flooding.

     

     

     

     

    new filter 1.jpeg

    filter hole concern.jpeg

  10. 52 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

    By Heck! Th'a likes a challenge dun't thee?

    TD'

    Hi Tracy it gets even better, the third pump is the "treasure" but have not received it yet.

     

    I will do a strip down and recondition once my boat is fixed, and video it for reference. I will learn by hands on experience and being corrected, by you all. :cheers:

  11. Thanks for all the recent replies.

     

    Today I got the hose it is very flexible and has a steel spring core, this will allow me to drop the new filter directly down as it exits the boat, something I could not do in the past due to the very stiff pipe already doing that job, I think if the filter is near to the boat body it should offer some protection from weeds, I have heat tested the pipe in boiling water and it just softens a touch so all good.

     

    I am waiting on the antifreeze and a 90 degree hose to arrive in order to complete and test the job. I have been given 2 meters of water exhaust pipe brand new, might as well just change that over.

     

     

     

     

    • Greenie 1
  12. Tracy I do admit I am a bit confused about it, from what I understand, the heat exchanger tank has two purposes first of all the tank section is where the engine water flows and exhaust gas is ejected at the rear through the same water pipe that the raw water flow ejects.

     

    Inside the tank the heat exchanger which looks like lots of copper pipes in a sleeve and is a sealed unit, sealed by the two rubber end caps, the reason for this unit is to function as an oil and engine watercooler and the raw (river water) flows through it, and does not come into contact with the engine coolant other than the exhaust gas at the rear, as they share the water pipe exhaust.

     

    The antifreeze will go into the heat exchanger housing the "gold cap on top" but will not enter the heat exchanger pipes, but will find its way into the main engine, from that tank.

     

     

  13. I want to get better at recondition, I beleave in hands on experience so I bought three water pumps from ebay, I have two here and a third one coming, I got these two for £20.  

     

    I will update the thread with the stages of the recondition, but remember I am new to this I don't expect to get everything right so feel free to correct me as the thread progresses, also allow for a delay as I am going to focus on my boat Wednesday.

     

     

    1.JPG

    2.JPG

    3.JPG

    4.JPG

    5.JPG

    • Greenie 1
  14. 27 minutes ago, Man 'o Kent said:

    Your efforts do you credit and that from an old school, (pre CAD, CNC, etc), time served Toolmaker.

     

    There is only one comment I would make for anyone else contemplating a similar job: When flattening a job off it is better to adopt a figure of eight motion than a circular one, also rotatate the object in the hand at intervals. Ranbdomness is your friend.

    Thank you very much and of course will take all advice on board, this forum is on another level. ?

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