Jump to content

Clodi

PatronDonate to Canal World
  • Posts

    449
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Clodi

  1. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  2. The last few Travel-Van conversions I did I used plastic pipe and compression fittings and I quickly learnt that the pipe-inserts had to match the pipe. 15mm inserts from different brands didn't always fit. I know what you mean about long runs looking untidy. I'll be using some finned pipe rads so they shouldn't really be on show. I think I'll use copper pipe and push fit where it'll be seen. I like plastic pipe for the long runs without joints & the fact they are slightly more forgiving.
  3. I'm looking to buy some 15mm plastic pipe and at the moment Screwfix have a good OFFER FloFit 50m for £39.49. Question is, does it matter what make fittings I use with the pipe? I'd like to use Hepo2 fittings. I must admit I usually use compression fittings with inserts allough recently fitting a washroom in an attic conversion I used the copper push-fit on copper pipe to great effect.
  4. You can fit flue-guards around the single skin flue like These there are loads more around with a bit of searching. They tend to be used on yachts, I used to fit them when the kids were smaller as the flue was a convenient grab handle, ouch!
  5. Thanks everyone, 2 vents it will be, both as high as possible ?
  6. I am fitting an additional water tank under a double bed, it shall be in line with the current stainless bow tank and the pump will be fitted after the 'new' tank. As we are having alterations to our bow area I intend to have our water filling point connected to this new tank with a vent on the bow tank to facilitate filling. A new bow tank will have to be fabricated. My question is, Will this work? The top of the 2 water tanks will be more or less level so I'm hoping filling will be pretty straightforward & there will be a stoptap between the tanks.
  7. TBH I'm not really sure about my genny, it's only a cheapie 1100 watt This one I think. I'm not on the boat at the moment. I've never really thought about using a genny to charge the batteries and I've always wondered why I see people running generators on the bank. If I were to 'upgrade' my genny what spec should I Look for, mind you I don't fancy spending a fortune it'll have to be another eBay bargain
  8. Victron Centaur IP20 Battery Charger 12V/100A, mains power requirements I have purchased a Victron Centaur IP20 Battery Charger 12V/100A/90-265Vac - 3 Output mainly to use if ever I am on shore-power. My question is what size generator would I require to make it worthwhile 'plugging it in' if you know what I mean?. At present I only have a small Machine Mart Clark brand pure sine wave jobbi for running power tools etc It was an eBay purchase at a Very reasonable price & is practically brand-new.
  9. Just to clarify, I need an Accumulator for the pump, an expansion for the hot-water and another expansion tank for my diesel central heating. The Surejust 8ltr tank is £65 whilst the Toolstation 8ltr is £29 they also do a potable tank for around £35. The central-heating system will be sealed and I'll be guided by the professional design as to the size of the tank but I really need to keep a tight check on the budget hence my original question. However I always bear in mind the old adage 'Buy cheap buy twice' .
  10. What is the size of the midland chandler one in litres?. Not so much for the accumulator side of things but I thought the expansion tank needs to be a certain size depending on the setup.
  11. Is there any reason why I need to by marine Expansion/Accumulator tanks for my central-heating & hot water systems ? Screwfix, Toolstation etc offerings are a lot cheaper.
  12. As already mentioned narrowboats are not built for fast-flowing rivers. Mud-weights are great also deployed to hopefully keep you in the stream and not over the bank when (hopefully) the flood subsides. Given the limited amount of safe working area on my particular boat carry & deploy my anchor from the stern. The anchor wharp is secured to a bow fitting which is secure enough to withstand the shock & it gives me the option to secure it to the stern should conditions dictate. Remember travelling downstream when the flow is faster than you means any steerage is hit and miss to say the least
  13. The only problem with this is when travelling downstream where there is not enough room for a narrowboat to swing around, you definitely don't want to end up wedged across the stream. Sometimes common sense must contradict the 'rule'. Hopefully we'll never need to have to use ones anchor, however I grew up on the Great Ouse and conditions can change rapidly catching even experienced locals out. I live in West-Wales and just a couple of weeks ago we suffered tremendous rainfall causing our local river systems to rise by 20' practically overnight, unfortunately claiming a young mans life and breaching flood defences causing millions of pounds worth of damage. Always prepare for the unexpected.
  14. Wasn't this featured on that recent TV series about building houseboats?
  15. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  16. Thanks Alan, for some reason I've had an aversion to using the swim for storage. I like to keep them clean and dry. Must be a mental block as I could have saved myself a few bob buying less 50mm cable.
  17. In this months Waterways World mag there is a feature on 'Honky Tonk' a build by Sheffield -bases builders Finesse. It looks a lovely build with some great design features. One of them is that the calorifier is suspended under the aft deck which 'allows storage on the swim below'. This has got me thinking, My batteries are currently on the uxter plate (6 x 6v Trojan ) in 3 battery boxes. However I have the 'automatic top-up' Trojan system which means I won't have to have access to the tops (once I'm convinced that the system works) therefore I can tuck the batteries away and if I were to keep them on the swim the battery leads could be shortened by a couple of meters. Is there anything wrong with storing them on the swim? Obviously not directly onto the steel plate, I'd place them on a frame to allow air flow and check there's no damp.
  18. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  19. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  20. I've got them as additional, mind you have you ever seen dry foam in an enclosed space?
  21. Thanks for the replies guys. I realised that I easily meet the regs with my 2 2kgs red dry powder plus I have a 'posh' 6k chrome dry powder in the shed, all certificates for the next 4 years. I got some CO2 as dry powder in a small place dosn't really appeal to me. Hopefully they'll never actually get to be used and I'd rather have too many than too few.
  22. I see Screwfix have a sale on their extinguishers at the moment which I want to take advantage of as I have a credit with them. Please can anyone tell me the minimum BSS requirement for a 60 footer ? Personally I don't like the dry powder extinguishers which I already have 2,1 kgs of. I'd rather CO2 and foam with a wet chem' for the engine dept' but I can't seem to find the relevant section on searching on my phone & I want to order them tonight. I'd rather have too many than too few but don't know what types required for the BSS inspection.
  23. They tend to rot from the center and our local steam train center call them canoes & sell them for a tenner.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.