Steve-H71

So this is not one of the things I can save money on. I guess I can look for a used calorifier or get a new one. I just need to save wherever I can. Thanks for the replies, sometimes I just need telling.....

So I am also intending to have a wet room, as said earlier it gives a bigger shower without taking away space for the toilet. I fit wetrooms in houses and we use preformed sub trays that you then tile onto. They have to slight drop towards the waste. I am going to do something slightly different. I am going to fix grey pebbles to sealed marine ply and grout the gaps, I am then going to pour casting resin onto the pebbles and gently smooth in the required drop to the waste. I will put stiff angle plastic strips fixed to the ply so once in place the plastic wall panelling will be glued inside the plastic angle to seal and prevent leakage. If you want an idea of how it's done search 'the penny floor' on YouTube they do it with pennies which looks brilliant. As it's resin it will have some grip when wet. I'm pretty sure there will be a clear non slip coating that can be use to make it safer. You can obviously put whatever you want down to pour the resin over...

Would vatcan not work inside the gas cylinder. That converts the rust and leaves a protective coating and is safe for potable water, but would it be use able in hot water.

I get the point's you made mike. I don't however see the problem with the gas cylinder. If it has an internal coating to inhibit rust and contamination then there is no reason it can't be used. Is it not tested at a far higher pressure than any hot water cylinder. If it has the correct plumbing fittings and pressure relief valve then it would be safe enough and would only cost the price of the fitting's. I don't suggest everyone rushes out chopping holes in gas cylinder's, if not done properly it can obviously be slightly dangerous.... but it would/will work. I like and respect constructive criticism as it helps us see things from different perspective's. I understand your point though mike regarding commercial profit. Its just sad that everything in this world has to come down to profit.

So right you are Alan. It's knowing which idea's are worth trying to find that alternative. I'm of the been divorced and need an affordable home although I've loved boats since a small child (now a big child as she told me.....) The problem with the world today is everything is made to a price so it makes the most profit regardless, although not that old I remember when the cost of an item was relative to the cost of making it, sadly greed took over with a certain Mrs T. For example I really want a composting toilet. I like the air head and nature's head type with the compost rotating system etc. Why the he'll does it cost 700 odd quid !!! I am building my own with 12v fan and removable compost box with rotator bars etc. The parts and materials cost me 150 quid. I will post the build pics once it's finished.... My biggest issue with calorifiers are their cost, are they lined with gold, do they run on magic fairy dust. No its just a tank. So why so expensive. Rant over. Thanks for the replies. Steve.

I will also be fitting a couple of vent into the floor at the front of the cabin, il fit a fan at the back and draw air through the bilge, that should help with any condensation. It will vent into the engine bay so the draw of the engine will also pull air through. I will fit closing vents and a switch for the fan so I can keep the warm air in when it's cold.

I am about to start a refit. I am planning on having keel coolers. While the old floor is up I will rearrange some of the ballast as best I can. Fit a wooden frame and lay a rubber mat in the bottom. I will have about 5 inches under the floor, I will fit hinged trap doors with 1 inch insulation on the back to help keep it cool. Picture visitors faces when you open this hatch and it's full with bottles of wine . . .

Thanks guys. I did wonder if the inline gas water heater would work, it's a shame really as it would make a complete 'in one' system. I was hoping there would have been a sensor/switch that would control the gas heater as the water passed through it sort of thing. I think the idea of a splitter valve sounds like my best bet. I don't fancy being dead again so it has to be safe.... As for the gas cylinder idea, no I did think about the rusty water which I would have found a suitable tanking type paint, pour it in, duct tape the holes and slosh the paint around until good coverage, drain and let dry and then repeat so a good internal coating. Interesting about using a presource relief valve on a domestic cylinder. I'm just looking for the best solution for the lowest cost but not skimping on safety or comfort. Thanks for the replies, I'm sure I will have plenty of strange questions in the next few months. Steve.

His all, new to the forum and in the process of buying a n'boat, the boat in question will need a complete refit, I work as a small scale builder/odd jobber so have skills and friends with skills. I have a couple of questions for you guys regarding hot water systems.. So I know the calorifier takes heat from the engine coolant system, I am also intending to feed hot water from the stove back boiler system that heats radiators. What I want to know is.... can I then fit the instant gas water heater on the hot water outlet of the calorifier and have some sort of thermostatic switch that means the gas heater only fire's up when the water is below a set temp. I hate waste and would not be happy having the gas heater running while the water is plenty hot enough from the calorifiers, it would bug the he'll out of me. I guess the easiest option is to just switch the gas heater off when I know there is already hot water but I'm a tad forgetful so would end up forgetting to turn it on and off hence the idea of the thermostatic control.... The other question I have is calorifiers, damn they are hexpensivo. I am like most on a tight budget. I understand why you can't really use a domestic cylinder apart from size due to the pressure and the modern ss domestic tanks are no better price wise. Now I've done a fair bit of tinkering and fetteling in my time making chimeras from gas cylinders as well as inventing versions of things I can't afford to fit my needs etc. I also understand the process of purging the cylinders of gas and fumes etc. Could I. .. drill a hole the side/top of the gas cylinder for an emersion heater fitting and then 6 x normal 15mm holes and then have a long narrow pair of coils that will fit in the 2.5'' hole and connect to 'proper fittings' on the 15mm holes and then the cold in and hot out as normal and then use an emersion heater blanking plate to close the cylinder. I would obviously fit a pressure relief valve on the hot out feed so no issues with over pressurisation. Obviously the gas cylinder is rated at a far higher pressure rating and a 12kg cylinder would be a perfect size. (The cylinder is from a company that no longer exists so no ownership issues). Do you guys that know see any other issues with this idea, I would obviously insulate the cylinder and while open I would coat the inside of the cylinder with a suitable paint/coating. Thanks for any replies. Steve.