Chambo

Helpful, but true🤣🤣

The mains fridge, which was "at temperature" and the TV. It didn't print anything out and I didn't see what it said. The lad using it just said they were ok.

The batteries are probably 4 years old, they were tested by Streethay wharf boatyard on the Coventry with their "all singing" tester and I was assured they were in good health. Just a volt meter and an ammeter when the engine is running

On an earlier trip this year I had a problem with my batteries not holding a charge overnight. At the time I was having trouble with my 12v fridge, this was changed for a new 240v fridge freezer unit. The batteries were all took of the boat once fully charged, left for a few days and then tested, they all showed 13v. One thing I did discover was a broken clamp on the battery bank which was replaced. Thinking that might have been the problem we planned to go out for an autumn cruise this week, the boat has been plugged in to shore power for the last two days to get the fridge freezer down to temperature. I disconnected the shore power at 1630 this afternoon and by 2130 this evening the inverter cut out because the voltage had dropped below 12v. I have a battery bank of 4 12v 110 amph batteries for leisure, sterling 2kw inverter, all led lighting, small 240v TV and a water pump. The inverter is over ten years old but not showing any alarms and works perfectly until the volts drop then it cuts out as it should. I'm at a bit of a loss to understand what's happening, has anyone got any ideas?

Thanks, that's very helpful

I get the logic behind defrosting and starting again but the unit has been fully defrosted just one week ago.

There is a good two inches clearance all round, so plenty of room for air flow. My thoughts now are do I buy a new 12 volt fridge freezer or go for a domestic 240v one, boat is fitted with a 2 kw inverter and a 440 amp hr battery bank. Only thinking this because of the big difference in costs between 12v and 240v fridge/freezers.

I've just pulled the unit out to have a look at the fins and the back is all boxed in so you can't actually see the condenser fins, it is obviously how it is designed because it's not something I've done!

Hi Tony, any idea on how to check?

Thermostat appears to be working ok, compressor is cutting in and out it just seems to run for a long time when it does cut in

Hi David, door seal is in good condition and freezer door is fully shut Thanks

Hi, I've had the aforementioned fridge freezer for a few years now (9), on our current trip out I have noticed that the compressor is cutting in and running for a long time before cutting out, I would expect this if it had only just been switched on but not after three days traveling. The freezer compartment is full and the food is all frozen, the fridge is full and food is all cool. I wondered if anyone had anything similar happen to them. Thanks

No, it’s a solid metal housing with an air intake funnel, the same as you would find on many old cars from the 60’s and 70’s, the two rings of metal gauze sit inside this and the fine mesh would be between the two rings. Looking at your photo, the air filter shown, the gauze around the outside is actually smaller gauge than the two circles of metal gauze inside the filter housing.

Ok, you’re misunderstanding me when I say the air filter is a piece qauze, what is actually in there are two circles of metal the same height as the air cleaner housing, these are literally peppered with holes of approximately 8mm. Originally there would have been some fine gauze material between these two circles of metal that you would have taken out, cleaned in parrafin and lightly oiled before replacing, this fine gauze is no longer there!

All very good advice but if you refer back to my reply to Tony Brooks the engine was fully reconditioned three years ago. Thanks for the offer but I have a workshop manual.

Its not had an air filter in (other than a circle of sheet qauze ) since I brought the boat almost twenty years ago!

thanks for your thoughts, I can safely rule out the air filter and the governor and springs were overhauled with the engine three years ago.

Same prop as when I brought the boat, didn’t smoke then! Certainly something to think about

The engine only really gets run at speed and load is when it’s on the river, most of the time is spent on the canals probably running at 12 - 1400 rpm on a good day. As for the fuel I fill up when required so at most I would say probably at the start of the season 4 to 6 months old. As for the exhaust, the boats 28 years old! Smoke is black by the way

I’ve just checked the invoice for the rebuild, it had new hydraulic tappers, push rods, rockers, inlet and exhaust valves, cylinder head chemically cleaned and reconditioned, crank re ground, new bearings etc. etc., it was a comprehensive rebuild. Unfortunately I don’t know to what extent the oil pump was checked/tested but the engine does have good oil pressure on the gauge fitted on the control panel. I do regular oil changes (in excess of what Lister recommends) and I always use the recommended oil and a good quality filter. I would add that you are correct in so much as when the engine has a good thrash on the river the smoke disappears but soon comes back when just plodding up the canals.

No it starts, runs, doesn’t burn oil, was completely reconditioned three years ago but has smoked ever since, even had the ‘new’ injectors changed post rebuild, cured it for a bit but last time out was smoking again!

Yes point taken, it’s actually a LPWS4 engine although from 1993 I’d hardly call it modern Thanks but already tried them

Hi can anyone recommend a good diesel fitter, preferably with Lister experience, in the East Midlands thanks in anticipation.

Thanks for your thoughts, when I flushed and refilled the cooling system I made sure (as is reasonably practical) to remove any air, venting from the top of the skin tank and running the engine until the thermostat opened, I'm fairly happy that I removed all the air. I have picked the boat up from the boat yard today after having it shot blasted and 'two packed', I questioned the boat builder as to the thickness of the paint around the skin tank area, I couldn't print his reply suffice to say the thickness was in mm's not microns. The journey home involves going against the current on the river Trent which is also carrying quite a lot of excess water, the engine consequently was working hard and the temperature gauge hardly moved, I'm reluctant to say that was the problem but I suppose I'll only find out through use. Thanks for the info, I'm currently running at about a 40% mix

It's not one with a replaceable impeller but it's a possibility, how would you check?