tortuga guy
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Posts posted by tortuga guy
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9 minutes ago, cuthound said:
Lifelines AGM's can be equalised, indeed they recommend it. Mine are now 12 years old, have been regularly equalised and still have around 50% of their badged capacity left.
https://lifelinebatteries.com/2015/10/can-i-equalize-agm-batteries/
Yes they do and we will equalise them , really wasn't going to go for that "set it to sealed" when it can be done properly , I intend to get the most out of them expensive batteries , thank you very much for your input and link.
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Mike, they are in parallel and now understand, I spoke to the electrician which is going to fit and install my panel and he completely agrees, thanks for your very useful input.
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Thank you Mike that's very useful and will double check
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But setting it to sealed isn't the correct setting , if I can set manually then surely it should be done that way , what I'm confused about it whether to double the numbers as I've two batteries
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This is all confusing me , should the bulk and float numbers be multiplied by two when setting parameters manually , as there are two batteries .........??
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Thank you for your replies , so if I was to go to "users" on the control panel and set it myself, and having two batteries do I need to multiply by two ?. Thank you for your time.
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Thanks for your reply, does that then mean that I would need to set the parameters my self under the "users" setting and double the numbers seen as I've two leisure 12v batteries?
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Hello you wonderful people. I have recently bought a 305w solar panel and kit for my narrow boat,it has a epever xtra n series xds2 mppt charge controller . My 2 leisure batteries are gpl-31t lifeline AGM 105ah, are the batteries and controller compatible ?, I'm asking as AGM batteries are not specifically mentioned in the controller's instruction booklet . Thank you all.
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5 minutes ago, dor said:
Or try Captain Tolley’s creeping crack cure.
it stopped a leak I had until I could fix it properly.
THANK you I think I have some of that somewhere, cheers.
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15 hours ago, Nightwatch said:
Strange that you have had no response. I can’t personally help. But may I ask is it to seal the glass in the frames or the frames to the boat side?
We have Caldwell Windows. We had a couple of tiny seepage issues a few years ago. Rather than take out the frames I tried to loosen the retaining screws near to where we thought the penetration was, (some screws didn’t budge) anyway applied a very small sliver of sealant along the edge of the frame and carefully wiped off with a damp cloth. What couldn’t be wiped off sealed the gap. Tighten the few screws that did move. I was surprised that it worked. Saved a load of hassle.
That sounds like a neat trick and may try it, it may help till a proper fix, thank you
Just now, tortuga guy said:That sounds like a neat trick and may try it, it may help till a proper fix, thank you
Oh its the frame BTW, thanks again.
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1 hour ago, Boater Sam said:
Ah, its an RCR inspection then. Must be perfectly OK.
I don't think!
Well it never has needed to be adjusted, he stated that the day it does that particular one won't be able to be tightened, so I thought I'd get them changed anyway for peace of mind, though saying that I've not noticed any difference in the 3 years I've had the boat, so it's become a job to do in not too long future I suppose. Thanks
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59 minutes ago, BWM said:
If the engine has needed regular tightening of the mounts, it almost certainly has either some misalignment or imbalance between mountings.
Only one of them has run out of thread, its what I learned from my last RCR inspection, he said it may need to be done at some point, the boat runs fine with minimal vibration, I think he means that if it ever needs tightening it will need changing and as I gather when one needs changing the lot are changed.
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1 hour ago, Tony Brooks said:
You ,may well have to undo the shaft coupling (if not already said) yo allow the back of the engine to lift enough if the mounts have long studs on them. That is unless the studs can be unscrewed.
Thank you for that extra bit of info , you're all wonderful , happy new year !.
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32 minutes ago, Jen-in-Wellies said:
I've not done this, but it should not need a lift out. The critical bit however is the alignment of the engine/gearbox to the propeller shaft afterwards by adjusting the level of each mount. If this is out it is not good news. If the current mounts need replacing, then it is likely that the alignment is not brilliant anyway. Sure someone will be along shortly to explain how to line everything up.
Jen
The present enlignement is fine but I think that when first fitted the threads and nuts were not entirely at the same height and so after years of tightening when needed one has run out of thread , it is the reason I'm having to change them as on my last engine check the engineer realised that one of them could not be tightened any further . Thank you for you input .
7 minutes ago, BEngo said:Once you you have done the swap as above, check the alignment is right. Slack off the top nut on the mounts. Bring the propshaft coupling up to the gearbox and check that it will mate easily with its other half on the box. Move the engine bodily up or down as needed by adjusting all the lower nuts the same amount. Then mate the couplings without bolts and check the two halves are parallel top to bottom using feelers between the two halves of the coupling to measure. Get the gap thessme by adjusting the lower nuts on the front mounts. Then repeat side to side, adjusting by moving the engine laterally at the front.
Once you are happy check all the measurements again and tighten the top nuts the way stillearning says. Depending on how your engine is installed there may be a widget ( eg a pythondrive) which will allow some misalignment to be acceptable. If this is the case get the errors as good as you can and within the limits for your widget.
Take your time and make small adjustments.
N
Thanks , that's great advice .
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I was told on my last engine check that one of them was running out of thread and so to replace all four
1 minute ago, tortuga guy said:I was told on my last engine check that one of them was running out of thread and so to replace all four
Still earning , yes that does make much sense , thank you very much.
23 minutes ago, Stilllearning said:One at a time is possibly the best way.
Assuming that the engine alignment is correct before you start, undo the nut on top of the first engine bracket and count the number of turns you undo it, this is important. Then undo the bolts holding the mount to the bearer. Then carefully jack up the engine no more than you need to slip out the old mount and place in the new one, having set the lower nut on the new mount at the same height as on the old. Repeat for all 4 mounts, paying attention to the heights of the old nuts and setting the new mounts nuts at those heights. When tightening up the two nuts on the studs, hold a spanner on the lower nut and gently tighten down the top nut.
Does that make sense?
Yes it makes a lot of sense , thank you
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Hello all you wonderful people, i have a question , when changing engine mounts, does the engine need to be lifted out or can they be changed one at the time without it being lifted , please excuse my ignorance any reply will be greatly appreciated, thank you all for your time.
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Hello all you wonderful people, I wondered if any of you knew of a good window fitter in the London/Uxbridge area , I have 3 windows that need re sealing , willing to pay obviously, and plenty of tea and biscuits of course , any reply will be greatly appreciated, thank you all for your time.
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2 hours ago, Flyboy said:
Is Costco available to the general public or is it trade only ? How much is oil in Costco by the way ?
- Member
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- 44 posts
- Gender:Male
- Location:london/Harefield
- Boat Name:ELLIE
thank you all , will this stuff do then ??? http://www.millersoils.co.uk/products/superfleet-sd-10w30/501
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thank you all , will this stuff do then ??? http://www.millersoils.co.uk/products/superfleet-sd-10w30/501
Quotethank you Wotever, iv'e seen that a lot looking for the correct oil and may have to use it, but in the meantime i think i'll try find the original recommended oil, the 10w40 cd i believe is best for more recently built barrus shires, thank you though.
mrsmelly, the previous owner had the boat from new and from day one used the recommended oil in the manual, 10w/30 api cc, it also happens that he used the barrus shire brand, he also knew that i would not use the boat more than 250 hours when i told him about myself and my plans for the next 12 months last august, (the recommended time for an oil change is 250 hours or twelve months which ever comes first) i have only used the engine approximately 200 hours , 4-5 hours every week end since including all of winter and he had done the last oil change about this time last year , so thought it good form to follow the manual and use the same oil,. Ok i now understand that it doesn't have to be Barrus Shire brand oil but at least a good quality oil of the same viscosity / api spec, surely.
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thank you Wotever, iv'e seen that a lot looking for the correct oil and may have to use it, but in the meantime i think i'll try find the original recommended oil, the 10w40 cd i believe is best for more recently built barrus shires, thank you though.
mrsmelly, the previous owner had the boat from new and from day one used the recommended oil in the manual, 10w/30 api cc, it also happens that he used the barrus shire brand, he also knew that i would not use the boat more than 250 hours when i told him about myself and my plans for the next 12 months last august, (the recommended time for an oil change is 250 hours or twelve months which ever comes first) i have only used the engine approximately 200 hours , 4-5 hours every week end since including all of winter and he had done the last oil change about this time last year , so thought it good form to follow the manual and use the same oil,. Ok i now understand that it doesn't have to be Barrus Shire brand oil but at least a good quality oil of the same viscosity / api spec, surely.
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thank you Wotever, iv'e seen that a lot looking for the correct oil and may have to use it, but in the meantime i think i'll try find the original recommended oil, the 10w40 cd i believe is best for more recently built barrus shires, thank you though.
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hello you wonderful people, it is time for my barrus shire 1200 diesel engine built in 2002 to have its oil changed, i only bought the boat last august and the previous owner told me back then that the oil would have to be changed around april / may so now is the time, he did leave me a bit of the oil he last used which is barrus shire 10w 30 api cc, the problem is that there isn't enough , so i thought i could use what is left in the prm 120 gear box which i believe is ok as it says in the manual to use the same oil, please correct me if i am wrong, however i can not find this same oil on line even on the barrus web site, have they stopped making it or / and is there a replacement ?? any info will be greatly appreciated thank you and happy cruising.
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oh, right , understood now, thank you WotEver.
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thank you Richard i will go back to looking at 2kw ones. cheers
AGM / mppt Compatibility
in Boat Building & Maintenance
Posted
Thanks again . Interesting read too .