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christophert

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Everything posted by christophert

  1. Cheers, as I wasn't sure when I bought the boat I put in a neutral antifreeze which can be mixed with both. I've been using it ever since, but having trouble finding it, so I've bought blue As a rule, blue coolant is for cast iron engines, while red is for aluminium engines. A good rule of thumb is that if your car is from before 2000, you should choose blue coolant. If your car is from after 2000, choose red coolant.6 Jan 2022 https://www.autobutler.co.uk › blog This is what the guy in Halfords said too
  2. Cheers, as I wasn't sure when I bought the boat I put in a neutral antifreeze which can be mixed with both.
  3. Hi all, does anyone know what anti freeze to use in this engine? Not sure if it's the pink or blue?
  4. Hi Tracy, as Tony said it may be difficult to separate the sender wires as all in one shroud, but over the weekend I'll see if it's possible as I'm wondering if it could possibly be the sender's. It's a 30 year old boat and may well be original senders. Although the chances of them failing together is doubtful, I wondered could some sort of power surge have knocked them out? Probably not but maybe possible I don't know. Although the rev counter is not working, this failed some time after and not the same time as the two gauges. I'll also trace where that other wire leads to. The prospect of eating camel dung is more appealing than than trying to sort this out but it's gotta be done. Hi Tony, clicks should've spelt clocks, I'll blame predictive texting. Over the weekend I'll try running negative wire from volt gauge and try volt meter between battery positive and negative in the three way shroud. I'll also trace the black wire from the ignition switch to see where it leads to. As I said to Tracy, I was wondering if it could possibly be the sender's, thought very unlikely they failed at the same time, could a power surge have possibly knocked them out? She's a 30 year old boat and possibly the original senders in it, and the rev counter failed some time after the clocks stopped working, so poss separate issue. If so, I may have trouble getting replacement sender's to match the clocks as may now be obsolete. But need to find out if there is a working negative, which hopefully these further tests will confirm either way.
  5. Hi Tony, I ran a wire from neg batteries terminal to oil then temp negatives. Clicks still behaved the same. I'll now try running wire from volt meter neg to oil and temp neg
  6. Hi Tracy, I have traced the brown yellow to the alternator, I think it's redundant from an earlier alternator. There is no male connector on the back of alternator for it to connect to The brown wire is a bit of a mystery. It may be to the horn button which is damaged and disconnected, though not sure that's where it went to.
  7. Looking at picture, too left is volt meter which works, top right is ignition set up, bottom left is temperature, and bottom right is oil pressure.
  8. Thank you Tony, I will order these and replace the old ones. Tomorrow I'll do the test you recommend and take a pic of the back of the panel and post it here.
  9. I agree, and I'm very grateful for the advise I have received. I'll try all that has been suggested and Prime am very appreciative of the support I have been given. I just don't like being insulted. I and I'm sure many others who come on here may struggle with getting their head around certain aspects of understanding the situation. I give out a lot of advice in my own field and sometimes teach. Sometimes people get it straight away and sometimes they don't, but I would never belittle or insult them. Everyone has been very helpful and supportive, apart from the donky poster, who in my opinion shouldn't be engaging if he cannot be constructive. Thank you for your support, it is most appreciated.
  10. As you explained. The test has already been done! 🙄 It seems you're not listening, too busy insulting.
  11. As I explained in an earlier post, this test was done by the engineer. I have no intention of racking up bills but thank you for your advise. Why the insult? I came on here looking for advice and support, which has been given by some kind considerate people. I'm very knowledgeable in my own field of expertise, and can certainly think and work out complex problems which others may not be able. It's people like you who put off others seeking help with the likes of your visual comment. Behaviour like that is, in my opinion, quite sad.
  12. I'm wondering if changing the sender's is first port of call. Chances of both going together is slim but worth a pop.The rev counter failed after the gauges behaved as though they were shorting, so possibly a separate issue I'm wondering if it's worth paying to have a new wiring harness fitted, as the electrics do look a mess Going to see if someone local can test panel to rule it out, then maybe pay to have new wiring harness fitted as wiring very untidy and messy
  13. I'm not sure, but he's 30 years experience and sure he knows his stuff, just the thought of parting with £850 for a panel isn't something that's appealing. That's not his quote, that's what Thornycroft has quoted. A lot of money for a few dials.
  14. Unfortunately not, nor can I find a diagram for this panel on the web also
  15. Hi Tony, I spoke with the engineer, he said this is what he was looking for and found no problem. I'm in Polesworth, B77 Near Tamworth
  16. Hi Tony, thank you for your reply. This is way over my head so I called out an engineer. He was stumped and could not find what the issue was. He put it down to the panel being old and warn out. Could you recommend an electrical specialist who could take a look ?
  17. I'm hoping someone can help me please. My narrow boat has a Thornycroft instrument panel with VDO gauges - being a rev counter, temperature gauge, oil pressure gauge and volt meter gauge. When I switch the ignition on the temperature and oil pressure gauge swing across to the far right as though there is a shot circuit of some kind, but are earthed Ok. None of the dials are working, except the voltage gauge. The engine is a Thornycroft BMC 1800 diesel I believe also known as a 108 The cost for a new instrument panel is £850.00 ! It's just far too expensive. Is there any way I can test the gauges to see if the issue lies with them? Or does anyone know of a second hand unit for sale? Any assistance will be much appreciated.
  18. Hi all, I was wondering if anyone has had any help with the government energy support? If you have a permanent address it can be claimed, eg, a house or permanent mooring, but living on the cut as far as I know there isn't any support.
  19. Thank you. The generator is a bit excessive. It's a 3 cylinder 1100 cc ! That's why I'm on here, trying to get my head around it all 🙂
  20. Thank you all for sharing your knowledge. I was informed that a higher amp alternator is better as you do not need the engine running for longer periods. It seems I was misinformed.
  21. Good afternoon all. I'm hoping someone can help. I believe my alternator has passed away so I need s new one. It is,was, a 70 amp, receipt from fitting in 2014 shows Alt 6039 alternator A127 R/H 12 volt 70 amp. My batteries, X 3, are fine still and they are- Exide er 650 142 AH 12v My relay is - Durite 120 amp Battery charger is Waeco Perfectcharge IU1512 (I believe this is suitable for one leisure bat only.) I'm presuming for my battery bank the alternator is/was not powerful enough to charge the bank, (I'm aware it would if engine left running for s very long time.) I was thinking a more powerful alternator but not sure what to go for. I will be replacing the battery charger which is good when when on shore line (24/7) but not up to it when out on the canal and using generator to power it. I hope people can help. Regards, Sean
  22. For a piece of flimsy Chinese plastic, I disagree. Apparently
  23. No, it's from a reputable chandler 👍
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