stegra

I'm a huge fan of builder's foam but the problem here is that it's open cell structure so absorbs water.

Closed cell polyethylene foam springs to mind. You can get it with self-adhesive backing. Search ebay for 'closed cell foam' and there'll be lots to choose from in various thicknesses and sizes.

I don't know the answer to your question but you say that your 7ah battery is going to be connected directly to the 100w panel. I trust that you are putting it a controller in there. I'm sure you will need one.

Apparently they're good at detecting farts as well, so could be re-purposed as an early warning of when it's time to take to the chucky-out-bed after a curry night. Another marketing opportunity missed.

It's often mistakenly believed that carbon monoxide is heavier than air because of the co2 link whereas it's actually about the same.

Hmm. Not sure but I guess they must have thought of that. Perhaps there's an indication on the triggered alarm.

You can get interlinked wireless co alarms so that if you is triggered, they all sound: https://www.screwfix.com/p/fireangel-w2-co-10xq-wireless-interlink-carbon-monoxide-alarm/8931d#product_additional_details_container

Stone cutting discs will get through most tiles as well but more slowly and shrink away as you use them. I don't think they'll make much of an impact on porcelain though.

Yes. I remember when I was first selling and fitting double glazing I proudly told a customer that the windows were built in compliance with BS5750. They burst out laughing and explained what that meant; I had no idea.

Ok. With big tiles like that, the trueness of the wall is vital. It doesn't matter whether it's vertical as long as it's all the same. Any twisting will cause headaches with corners protruding and spacings varying. If it's not true then you can thicken the adhesive in places to compensate. This may be by buttering the back of some tiles in places or, if extreme, using dabs. A hollow is easier to deal with than a bulge as you simply thicken the adhesive in that place rather than the rest of the wall. If using a brick-bond pattern the trueness is even more important as regular patterning can cope with some curving on a single axis. The first row is by far the most important. Spend plenty of time getting that right and the rest will fall into place. Make sure it's absolutely level and straight. If the floor is significantly out of level you can start with the second row and support it on pins or props then cut in the bottom row later. This method is also helpful when the finished level at the top is vital. Work out your spacing to give the most pleasing effect. For example, if the run is five and a half tiles wide, it normally looks better to have four tiles centered and a three quarter at each end. It's a bit more complex with brick-bond but the important thing is to try to avoid small cuts of tile. A diamond disc in an angle grinder (or tile cutting saw if you have one) will cut any type of tile. Ceramic tiles can be scored and snapped but most others cannot. I always use powdered tile adhesive and grout and mix them myself.

r/whoosh! Someone had to say it.

That must be absolutely heartbreaking for the new owners.

I tile professionally when I'm fitting kitchens and bathrooms and I do use the spacers but rarely leave them in before grouting. Normally I use them end-on which makes them easier to remove (for re-use of course). Very few walls are true so the spacing must be adjusted slightly to allow for this. Sometimes this may involve turning a horizontal spacer sideways or omitting a vertical spacer to reduce or increase the gap. Brick-bond spacing is very popular at the moment and the cross spacers obviously don't work for that so you can either cut a leg off or use them as above. Apparently T-shaped spacers are available but I've never used them. I agree with AdeE. Your chosen tiles are very big for a boat. Any twisting of the wall will cause a lot of stress in tiles that big. If this happens it could result in tiles breaking if the adhesive holds or, if the adhesive fails, the corners could pop out, bringing the grout with it.

Not when they've just squirted out a steaming brown puddle!

I don't have a dog but I often walk my friends' dogs. My question is, why do dogs always have a laser beam poo when there's someone close enough to see that they've had a poo but too far away to know that it's impossible to pick up? I normally just go through the motions. Pardon the pun.