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Posts posted by stegra
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3 minutes ago, The Dreamer said:
Never mind, and I’ve given you a kindly greeny in return!
Well, thank you. I've changed my password just in case someone's being generous on my behalf.
1 minute ago, ditchcrawler said:I sometimes do that by clicking it instead of Quote
Nope. Wasn't trying to reply. In fact some of them were when I wasn't reading the forum.
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What's going on? I seem to be giving out random greenies all over the place. Not a massive issue but might be a bit confusing for the recipients.
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I would make absolutely certain that there is fluid in it as a start. It just untwists from underneath.
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Peregrinate
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How is the starter battery tied in with the leisures? Does it have a voltage sensing relay? If you use a dual sensing relay, the solar will charge the starter battery when the leisures reach a certain voltage and the alternator will charge the leisures when the engine is running.
I think that's right anyway. Someone might be along shortly to correct me.
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16 minutes ago, Nightwatch said:
Took the joint apart. Caught the water and wet vac to dry area. Inside the joint is a small reddish plastic ring, like an olive but different. I wonder if that may be worn. Also, noticed that along the pipe, not in the joint, is a simple white plastic ring. I now wonder if that should be within the joint to assist pushing the 'plastic olive' to seal.
Could well be. Most push-fit connectors have a rubbery O-ring, then a rigid plastic washer, then the toothed ring, and then the arrow shaped bit that prises the teeth open if the fitting is demountable. But if you have it apart, better to replace the fitting to be certain.
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It depends on the ballast. If you mean empty as in without ballast, then 15 tonnes is probably about right. Ballast alone could be over six tonnes so finished weight will likely be over 25 tonnes.
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Your second diagram still includes an nvr. The only type of nvr that might work in a gravity circuit is a clack valve positioned horizontally. Your third diagram includes a tap above the radiators; I assume this was an oversight.
A back boiler on solid fuel stove needs extra precautions in case of boiling as the heat can't be switched off. Normally there is a dedicated radiator to act as a heat sink on a purely gravity circuit. If the calorifier circuit is pumped then an injector tee might be used to direct the flow away from the heat sink except when overheating. It seems your plan is for the calorifier circuit to be gravity and for the radiators/taps to be gravity. This is a slow way of moving the heat if the calorifier gets too hot. There are thermally controlled devices that allow cold water into the system in case of overheating but I think they require 240v.
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I think it's a non starter. If I understand correctly, your plan is to use the calorifier as a heat store so it will have to be up to temperature before you get heat to the radiators. Normally there will be one circuit for the calorifier and another for the heating. There will surely be times when you want as much heat as possible to the radiators without wasting energy heating the domestic water. The conventional method starts to heat up the radiators immediately rather than having to heat a full tank of water first.
If the main goal is to reduce water loss while waiting for the hot to reach the tap, why not look at creating a hot 'ring' with its own pump and short tails from this to the taps. The pump could just be run for a few moments to get the hot around the ring. Not sure if this is viable or not and it would need an nrv in parallel like you have in your diagram.
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Those USB sockets take a constant draw even when not in use (unless you have a switch in the circuit). Might be worth considering a double cigar lighter socket and a removable USB adapter. Gives a bit more flexibility as well.
Edit: reading the original post again, it's not clear that you're using those USBs.
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29 minutes ago, Sea Dog said:
So, in the words of Dirty Harry: "do ya feel lucky"?
Pedancy alert: "do I feel lucky?"
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9 minutes ago, matty40s said:
Are you sure its not Derbyshire, our Prime Minister thinks so....
Probably Nottinghamshire in that case.
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31 minutes ago, Goliath said:
I remember as a child we had ‘tramps’.
There was a tramp in Bedworth we knew as Georgey Faulks in the 70’s.
I was about to say the same thing. I think perhaps that the homeless were more ostracised from society and so less visible. I remember there being many tramps living in woods outside of town.
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You could try using epoxy putty instead of soldering. I've used it successfully a couple times where getting to the leak would have involved removing the hot water cylinder. Never had any complaints and once was at my sister's house and she isn't one to hold back. It comes in a sausage that you cut to length and mix with your fingers then smudge on until you've built it up to a decent depth (having thoroughly cleaned the surface with wire wool first).
Search for 'pipe repair putty' or "epoxy putty'. Some of the reviews are pretty poor but that's mostly people trying to use it without draining the system, or even releasing the pressure. Here's an example:
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That's a prv. It should have a rating on the cap, if you can get in to see it.
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59 minutes ago, ivan&alice said:
I'll buy a blowtorch, solder and flux tomorrow and give it a bash. I don't think driving a copper nail into it would be helpful. The hole is so tiny - the spray is almost a vapour - and being that it is on the seam I'm concerned the nail would cause it to split. Please let me know if you think this is a crucial step.
Not sure that it's crucial. If it was mine I would do it but then I do have copper nails in my van. I wouldn't hammer it in, rather drill out the hole so it was a tight fit. The advantage is that it gives you something to hold the solder in place and provides a strong cap. You can tap the head of the nail to the contours of tank and let the solder run in through capillary action.
Trying to get solder to stick on its own is quite tricky, as this, erm 'expert' proves:
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Brazing would be a bit risky because of the higher temperatures. You could end up with a much bigger hole. Quite common practice when a pipe has been punctured by a screw/nail/drill etc. is to get a copper clout nail from a roofer, stick it in the hole and solder around it.
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On a boat the stove generally stands in the open with free airflow around it. I suspect that in a house where the stove is tucked away in a recess (fireplace), these fans will be more effective. I wonder whether positioning the fan to one side and directing the flow behind the flue would work better, particularly when the stove is in a corner.
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They must have given some thought to prevent unfortunate word combinations but some get through. Here are some genuine ones (I've just checked):
back.passage.good Near the Vatican
large.trouser.snake Latvia
beats.member.daily Long Island
huge.chest.bumps Texas
swollen.member.blown Kazakhstan
daisy.serves.lines Drug rehab unit of a hospital.
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1 minute ago, rusty69 said:
Is there any prancing around involved?
I guess that's subjective.
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Google search of OP's name brings up a fun story. Not necessarily the same person of course.
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All this bitterness towards swans. Don't people realise that the swan is the symbol of purity, beauty, grace and elegance...
Whereas the swallow is the sign of true love.
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3 minutes ago, Sea Dog said:
My post #28, should it not be obvious, was a joking response to @LadyG 's post #26 questioning whether one could still mark one's batteries. Did you not think that it was a funny thing to think we may no longer be allowed to do? Who do we think might step in to stop us marking our batteries? What law/rule could it be breaking? Did the bit about what we could be "charged" with not give the game away?
Have to admit, it went well over my head, and Jim's as well I think.
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I've had a Halfords socket set with lifetime guarantee for around 35 years. I've only broken one socket and that was with the help of a scaffold pole. I broke the ratchet by whacking it with a club hammer. Thought about claiming on the guarantee but decided that if they asked for the receipt I'd have to leave with my tail between my legs.
Watched this video of a guy testing ratchets to destruction recently. Language is a bit fruity in places:
And the correct verb is?
in General Boating
Posted
No offence, your post was very good but I didn't press the green button once again. It takes two clicks anyway so definitely not in error.