Punk Stig

Cheers guys, I'll be doing those tests tomorrow- definitely led and not incandescent bulb- they're built into the pcb The bottom wire has never been connected since my ownership and was taped up!

I think the belt is fine- if I really up the revs the alternator will kick in, but I've never had to do it so high before- does that suggest belt is slightly loose or to do with current temperature or simply that alternator is on its way out?

Morning all- alternator on vetus 4.65 stopped producing power last night- the alarm sounds on the instrument panel, the power warning light stopped coming on last week when turning ignition on but as no alarm was guessing a short on the pcb or bad led (which his built into the pcb) I removed the instrument panel and there was corrosion on the pcb so cleaned that all up, hoping they were related I put the instrument panel back together and tried starting again- engine starts and runs fine, but still have no power from alternator and the alarm going off (still no light on the panel though)- any advice on where to look? Bottom wire has never been attached in the 4 years I've been on boat

No, checked this and it was cutting out at higher revs too

So, managed to have s look last night, after dropping the torch and the batteries frustratingly falling out on more than one occasion i couldn't spot an obvious problem, had the case off the solenoids on the back of the engine, wiggled the wires around and although then engine didn't cut out there were slight changes in the smoothness of how it was running. Couple of things I noticed - one of the solenoids was vibrating considerably in comparison to the others so slightly loose in its fitting, I removed all 3 of them, terminals are clean, then taped this down along with the others to reduce vibration. Also, the alternator was vibrating badly- the lower mounting bolt was considerably loose and the one to mount it to the top of the engine- these are no all tightened and belt at tension. Ran for 30 minutes last night and 45 this morning no probs, don't like jumping the gun but is looking like a loose connection somewhere! Thanks

Apologies for missing out 'switch' I'm quite sure any problems with the main fuse and it won't run at all but I shall check it out, thanks for all the advice so far people, not had chance to check any of it yet but will keep updated

Brilliant, I'm very happy to problem solve but need pointing in the right direction- that will help diagnose the issue

Internals were completely knackered which I assumed was shorting to the stop position- at the time hot wiring the ignition (correctly in order going with wiring diagram) would run fine and new ignition solved that issue, symptoms to the last time are very similar which made me consider electrical problems

Is that a case of inspecting every inch of fuel line?

As title- engine starts first time every time However it randomly cuts out could be after 20 minutes could be after 5 but restarts every time. Removed water separator and fuel filter- fuel is clean - removed the little filter in the fuel pump which by colour was dirty but don't have replacement to hand. Had a similar thing earlier in the year which was a crusted up ignition so replaced that- I have checked this and it's clean! Any ideas where I need to look next please?

Be very careful with which paints you wish to use on top of the mio paint, double check your data sheets

Definitely easier done out the water- as said take them to a bearing place, I went to Stateline bearings in hemel Hempstead, £2.50 each, too many size variants to say what I used as ones I had previously ordered in preparation for job were wrong size (I found it on a post here somewhere)

I had fun!

Fertan is available on eBay and a 1 litre tub should be sufficient (I used more on a 10'x58' but didn't just use it in the area for blacking) it's applied to damp steel so spreads a long way!

But you're not introducing water to bare steel- after 24 hours the fertan has converted any rust and adhered to the steel as a primer!

I have the cheaper copy- evopower 3000ei off ebay (£560) Similar to you only used during winter and when using power tools, electric start and remote start which is nice when it's raining I will in no way compare it to a Honda, it is noticeably noisier, and quite vibey (it sits on top of a motorbike tyre to stop this) but with regards to the pull start it does not need yanking, a gentle pull starts it easily

College Lake nature reserve is an easily missed local attraction, short 5-10 minute walk round the corner, worth a relaxing visit!

More than welcome, god forgive you to make this faux pas to the local Berkhamsted residents association, you'd be strung up in the castle!

Wherever you choose to moor just make sure you remove the 'p' and last 'a' when you go back to Berkhamsted! ;-)

I have no comment about the paint but think you'll find using an angle grinder with wire brush instead of a drill a bit easier!

They are Trojan T105's Appreciate and understand comments about too many wires - negative is attached by bus bar, yet to do the positive side!

Yes, I appreciate that, when I said fine I failed to mention I'd cleaned it off, and, thankfully yes, all fine, no corrosion, thanks for the help, my initial worry was seeing all the fur around the crack of the battery casing thinking this substance had leaked out of there, but it hasn't!

Terminals are fine, just the strap buckles, having a brief thought at what I was looking at I believed it might be a chemical reaction between the aluminum buckles and the recent equalizing charge of the batteries which would have produced excess hydrogen in the area, so I think nothing to panic over- just science happening!

Found the same on the other buckle too but not the battery this time- some kind of corrosion to do with that metal and not the batteries possibly?

Can anyone advise on what's happened to my battery in this picture!? It had also covered a metal buckle used in strapping the batteries down. Checked electrolyte levels and none lost, each cell is the same- above the plates.