Split Pin

You only need to remove the top cover and there is no gasket between it and the head Steve

I haven't had the need to purchase a tap or die yet, external threads get done on the lathe. I only managed to track down what the original thread designation is today I think that the water door original thread size is also 1 BA The Fuel inlet to the pump is M18x1.5. The lock plate for the pump outlets are also metric (M8) Steve

The threads used on LW's sprayers are the same as the L2 which originated in 1929 probably before the common fitment of hydraulic braking systems, certainly before the common use of unified threads. Although this diameter/pitch format is not commonly found in modern tables, it would appear that it was commonly known as Admiralty Fine Thread (ADM) generally used on pressure gauges and screwed glands on engine's Table here http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel/Tables/me1.htm The thread is also the same on LK injectors I have made a few extractors and normally do them as a sliding hammer,it will then fit any of the engine's with the same thread. It normally only takes a couple of bumps to release the injector. Taps seem to be readily available from at least one supplier Dies only appear to be available to special order (at significant cost) Steve

You beat me to it while I was editing the link that didn't work. Steve

Smiths Cranes were based in Rodley (Yorks) , a bit of history http://www.gracesguide.co.uk/Thomas_Smith_and_Sons Also pics in the 'Legendary Engineering Excellence',book pages 127and 166 My 3LW supplied to Smiths in 1952 was Gardner engine No 11 according to the plate from the crane. Re Walsh's and the last 2lw, I was told at least a year ago that Walsh's would not be importing any more container loads of engines from S Africa due to the poor condition and amount of missing parts. Also that if any one wanted one they would ship them in one at a time at pallet rate in a container, Obviously this has now come to an end as well. By the time the last container load came back from S.A they were being rounded up from wherever they could be found without regard for condition , many probably sidelined as being uneconomical to repair Steve Edited to correct county

Tim It is my understanding that LW (Alloy) sumps at least were made of the same material, having tried to repair a cracked one it certainly was not aluminum. Making a replacement sump from steel is a relatively straight forward job, Assuming access to suitable engineering equipment. Charlotte there are epoxy materials available which may be suitable to patch up your sump, I have used this type (http://www.jb-weld.co.uk/j-b-weld-epoxy-adhesive/) it was not on something going through heat cycles though If it is only the thread pulled out .it should be possible to go to a different size assuming there is enough material left in the boss Steve

The General Direction book that I have covers details of engine overhaul although it still would not give the answer to your problem. Gardner produced two versions of book one detailed the general maintenance, the other more detailed and contains overhaul information. As Tim says there are two shafts per head. To remove them make unscrew the tappet adjusting screws so that there is no pressure on the shaft, alternately you may be able to lever the rocker arm up and move the pushrod from under the the screw. Make sure that the piston is down far enough! Remove the square headed screws, best way I find to undo them is to use a 1/4" square drive socket upside down with an allen key in the hexagon side (8 or 10mm). Once the rockers are free from pressure push no1 rocker towards the back of the engine then carefully clamp a pair of grips around the shaft between the rocker and the head, with luck you will be able to turn the shaft and work it out of the head. I have a copy of tools book 55, but it will not be of any help in sorting your current predicament I also have a parts book as well in pdf, Tools book only in original form at the moment, PM me with an email address that can take attachments up to 8mb and i will email you what I have. Steve

The RN ones are I believe sourced from accross the pond at a substantial price. (At least that what someone told me) Steve

Fitting a mechanical drive tacho might not be an easy answer even if you can find all the proper bits, the right angle gearbox drive which fits onto the back end of the block takes its drive from a slot in the end of the camshaft,this slot may not be there, which would mean removing the camshaft to machine it, It would seem that Gardner supplied engine built to each purpose, engines destined for vehicles probably had the machined camshaft others did not. Electric tacho here http://www.farmtronics.com/proddetail.php?prod=E04200&cat=115 deep pocket needed also herehttp://isspro.mybigcommerce.com/r85205/ sensors also on this site Assuming your fuel pump has not been seriously messed with then you can get an idea as to the max rpm set by looking at the amount of movement that is available on the throttle cam, Most of it 1700rpm 2/3rds 1500rpm 1/2 or less 1300rpm or lower Depending on who calibrated the pump it may be the first part or the last part of the cam if set for less than the whole length, they were done this way to stop people simply repositioning the max rev stop I think it unlikely that you are overreving the engine, generally they get smoother as speed increases, one past the resonant point to which BEngo refers. Is yours fitted on Anti Vibration mounts? if so this may well be the problem,pretty well all the ones around are solid mounted from 2cyl upto 5cyl. not seen anyone with a 6cyl in a norrowboat yet! No doubt that there is one out there somwhere. Steve

Richard I have a copy of the same publication just an older version (2000/5) It contains the same information on the same page I certainly agree that the pump plunger is lubricated by the fuel that is pumping. How they expected the oil to find its way up the control sleeve from the bottom is a mystery. Quite possible other engine manufactures used different govener arrangements whigh are less suceptable to additional resistance from parts running dry Gardners however obviousily found the need to supplement it with the following, (could'nt find the right page earlier) Gardner LW & HLW Types Instruction Book 56.5 Page 31 GENERAL OPERATIONS AND MAINTENANCE—continued. 401. Lubrication of Fuel Pumps.—Every 10,000 miles a small quantity (about 30 c.c.) of engine lubricating oil should be injected through the 2 B.A. screw hole located in the front face of the fuel control box on all engines and also through a similar screw hole in the cast aluminium cover plate fitted to the rear set of fuel pumps on 5, 6 and 8 cylinder engines. This oil will assist in lubrication of the slider bars, quadrants and regulating sleeves inside the fuel pump housings. The interval had been extended to 12,000 miles by Instruction book 67 A pic of the fuel pump parts once dismantled The control sleeve is 1 7/8" long and fits over the lower end of the Pump Element body so the is a fairly large friction area which on engines that are used less frequently can dry up quite quickly Steve

Richard A pic of how this is achived would be welcome, none of the documentation that I have relating to this type of pump or any of the physical parts have any way of lubricating the control sleeve other than through the quadrant window.(behind the fuel control box) Steve

Richard I think that you are mistaking where the arrow points to on the pump element drawing (for some reason the drawing has imported at a smaller scale) The control sleeve cannot be lubricated by the fuel in the system as it fits around the outside of the pump element barrel. the pump plunger item 4 is lubricated by the fuel above it The control sleeve has the two slots in to fit over the two ears on the pump plunger, the quadrant fits onto the control sleeve so that when the rack moves the quadrent the control sleeve rotates the pump plunger varying the injection cut of point,therefore the amount of fuel injected Steve

Tony part no 24 is listed as Stop Control Trigger which is a bit of a misleading designation, see photo. Hopefully the pics will allay any fears about whats behind the cover The trigger stop and rack when the cover is in place The cover removed showing the trigger stop. The pump with the cover removed showing the quadrants looking at the photograps you may feel that there is not much to lubricate, It is the control sleeve item 7 which needs the oil, the quadrant is attached to the control sleeve which runs on the outside of the pump element and in the body of the pump Steve

Tony There is no gasket or other seal between the cover and the body . Steve

Tony I think that yours may have been fitted with a remote cold start device, I think you said it came out of a crane so it may have been difficut to reach. Mine also came out of a Smiths crane and was Gardner Engine no 11 acording to the original crane plate, it is the same as the illustration. I will have a look through the other books that I have to see if I can find your type shown anywhere Do you know when your engine was built, mine was 1952 engine no 91628

Tony Page from spare manual showing pump tops The Nuts labeled 8,/9/10 (Stud washer and nut) are the ones that I was refereing to as per your photograph The screw label 12 is the 2BA screw (IF FITTED) Not all covers have it. In the spare parts list it actually called the Fuel Control Box, and only shows one type, but the maintenance manual refers to one without the cold start device for automotive applications. I have a number of LW manuals and spares lists and they show considerable difference's down the years.(usually discontinued or modified parts) If the screw is absent then the only way to lubricate the quadrents is by either removing the cover completely or carefully pulling it back just enough to get the end of an oil can in. It the cover labeled 36 is in place then it will need to be removed also. When refitting the cover it may be necessary to manually move the slider bar backwards and forwards to get the trigger stop back into place (part of the cover assembly) The advantage to removing the cover is that you can also apply oil directly to the end bearings on the slider bar and manually move the bar in and out to get some oil into the bearings It the wire seals are still on the pump then there is no problen in just snipping the wire to remove them, they are fitted when the pump is callibrated to prevent anyone altering the max fuel setting. a necessicity for road engines where the Ministry of Transport could easily check at the roadside. The slotted head screws which are shown just above the 12 annotation should not be disturbed , they are the alingment pins for the pump elements.

Hi Guys Have you tried lubricating the fuel pump quadrents, this is done either through a 2 BA screw fitted in the quadrant cover or by removeing the cover held on by 2 nuts (3/16 spanner) Cover is the one behind the fuel pump levers Gardner reccomend that 30cc of engine oil every 12.000 miles.Keeping the internals lubricated is essential if the slider bar tension spring has been adjusted to lower the tickover speed Can make quite a difference. Innconsistent tickover speed can be caused by an incorrent adjusted slider bar buffer setting, try screwing it out 1/4" turn to se if it makes any difference. The buffer is to make sure that the engine does not stall when running down to tickover, when the throttle is shut down quickly, it gives the slider bar a bit of help enableing the govener to do its job Steve.

Just a quick update. Further to the incident last Friday when we were forced to close the navigation due to the partial chamber wall failure at Lock 20 on the Wolverhampton flight we have met with May Gurney and their sub-contractor, Hills, to agree a way forward. Following the incident we have also taken our local Engineering Manager, John Ward, to site and he agrees with our suspicions that this was trigged by the act of vandalism on the flight the previous day and with our reactive actions. To summarise our actions following this site meeting: · May Gurney to fence off the lock today 25/6 to prevent unauthorised access to the site, · MG/CRT to design a prop system to help retain the structure, · Possible site start on Wednesday for installation of the prop system and removal of brick sheeting and coping stones, · Site meeting also arranged with Heritage advisor and contractors for Wednesday to discuss the detailed repair solution and any consents required. We hope that as it is an emergency job they will not require these. However the lock is Grade II listed so we just need to make sure the conservation officer is happy. · Following the meeting on Wednesday we should have a better idea of timescales, method and delivery mechanism, · Emergency Environmental Appraisal submitted today, · A Project Manager has been appointed, · A full works information package is being prepared ready to handover to Project Manager. After Wednesday’s meeting we hope that this this can be firmed up with a formal start date for the full works agreed · John Ward to raise an authorisation request for around £80k to cover the works, I think that it for now but as I hear things I shall keep you updated. I’ve also copied in a photograph of the lock taken in March – which shows there wasn’t any outward signs of a problem then i.e. no cracks evident. I will let you have some more information as I get it. Regards - Dean Dean Davies Waterway Manager West Midlands Waterway Canal & River Trust, Peel’s Wharf, Lichfield Street, Fazeley, Tamworth, Staffordshire B78 3QZ I recieved this by email on 26th June Steve

Graham Check to see if you are getting any fuel returned from the filter to the tank when operating the lift pump, easiest way is to remove the drain back pipe from the filter and operate the pump, if you dont get any fuel then most probably the 0.18" bleed hole has become blocked, this allows excess fuel and any air in the system to return to tank, I encountered this problem recently on a 3LW it exhibited pretty much the same symptons that you are describing, drilled a new hole (couldnt find the old one even with 100psi air connected) engine ran without any problems after. Hole should be at the back of the return to tank connection into the pump supply gallery,unfortunatly the manuals only tell you that it is at the highest point in the filter housing. Steve

Providing that your oil pressure is at normal (45 ish) hot and cold when you are at normal cruising speed then you dont have a problem. If I remember correctly the manual says that the cold oil pressure will give aproximatley 2 psi higher reading, i doubt that the gauge will show any significant differance. My 3LW oil pressure remains the pretty much the same (45) wether its hot or cold, throughout the rev range, other than when I have been running on a river working the engine a little harder than on the canals, then it may drop to 35 psi at tickover (300rpm) but will be back to full pressure at normal running speed (500). I would suggest that you do not touch the PRV as its doing its job properly now. dismantling cleaning and reseting may actually result in lower pressures when hot if you remove any impregnated oil film on the plunger thus increasing the clearance causing leakage around the plunger. Steve

Hi Mark The grease point on the water pump is not for the gland it is for the bearing that the impelleor shaft runs on. This should be lubricated with a a small quantity of LM grade grease occasionaly, make sure that any excess grease has not blocked the drain slot on the bottom of the pump . Steve

Graham sold Amsterdam last year so maybe there is some connection. I belive that Graham contacted Baudouin but was unable to get coperation from them. Steve

I have pondered this on more than one occasion, the answer would seem to be that (as Martyn says) the need to get sufficent oil into the bearing to control its temperature, rather than actually produce the oil film to prevent contact between the bearing and journal, I found a piece about bearing design here (Bearing design) It takes a bit of reading. Another point is that the thin wall shells are slightly narrower so the need to get the oil film to the edge of the bearing is less,also there is no "oil groove" at the mating points on the shells, so less likelyhood of not keeping a good film where needed. Bypass oil feed to the governer is marginal at best even when bypass pressure is being generated, the amount of oil that passes into the governer housing is regulated by the size of the hole at the end of the pipe, when the engine is running the oil is being thrown off by the governer balance weights,therefore litle of it is getting to the parts that really need it.ie the trunnion blocks and the centre spindle. I worked on 3LW that was getting water into the oil, this was eventually traced to a leaking block, internally into the push rod chamber, having sorted this a few days later I got a phone call to say that the engine was stuck at full throttle, the governer had rusted up to the point that it had siezed, this was on an engine which had been rebuilt about 5 years previously which had good oil pressure all the time Steve

Depends on if its the correct nut or not. Engines after serial number 147676 were set at 35 lbs sq in, the point at which there was a change from Thick wall bearings to thin shell bearings. Better to be to high than to low, cannot see it doing any harm just using more power to generate the extra pressure if not needed. Steve

Pic of the 6LK Link on display at the Anson Engine Museum in 2004, As Athy commented it was fitted to a 1934 Invicta. There is also a pictuure of the Invicta with a 4LK fitted later in the album The 6LK is owned by Paul Gardner who loaned it to the Museum for the exhibition Steve