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Ex Brummie

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Everything posted by Ex Brummie

  1. You need to remove it and free from the inside. Look at it logically. If external lubricant can penetrate it, water will p**s out of it in use.
  2. Reading through the interim report, Involve have stated their remit is only for boaters. They absolve themselves from any influences from problems which are socio economic such as cheap accommodation in expensive areas, or any 'Yooman Rites' issues regarding employment or children's education. As a charity specialising in 'Public Engagement', they no doubt have their eyes focused on further engagement consultation in those areas. Thus the earning potential is tripled. I find it hard to treat these exercises with anything but contempt.
  3. Every time I go to the boat and light up the Morco, I turn up and down the water regulator 2 or 3 times, this stops the scale building up.
  4. I bought the toilet blue at £4.99 and when putting it in the locker, found a 4lt Elsan blue I'd bought from Midland Swindlers 18 months ago when I bought 2 for £20. When I called in on freaky Friday to buy a new loo ( the old one was full!!!) they were selling 4lt Elsan for £10, and still are.
  5. Too low a flow through the heater. You need to free , or replace, the seized water governor
  6. The data plate on the OCI should include flow rates. They are normally etched into the plate and expressed in CC/Min., usually between 4 and 13 cc per min. When you have the top off, remove the metering column which is held by a spring in the outlet. You will see there is a vertical slit in the tube. Make sure this is clear by using a split matchstick. Your flame picture shows a low fuel input if that is full setting. I would then replace the OCV at its original level. Too high a level will cause overfiring.
  7. Yes. Commonly done with T.V.'s
  8. If you have a gap in the door, then the flue draught will pull through that instead of through the fire. You won't lose heat up the chimney, as you put it, but your fire will not be as hot, and you also run the risk of CO entering the cabin.
  9. Sounds like too little diesel. When you cleaned the regulator, did you check for a blockage at the outlet? If the metering column was stuck, then there could be a blockage of solidified fuel in the hole. Also, without knowing which regulator you have fitted, the metering column may have had a rubber o ring that has disintegrated blocking the fuel. If you disconnect the feed pipe, you can measure the flow and check it against the specification plate of the unit.
  10. Comastic needs to be applied to bare steel, or a previous coating of comastic. I'm sure the boatyard that applied mine did not dress up, and using the touch up can, I've not noticed anything amiss.
  11. Just down from Bratch on the S&W is Botterham, which has clear instructions. Bratch is 3 individual locks without a pound you can pass in between them. The general instructions for a staircase are, for going up or down, empty bottom and full top. If going down, then there is often a weir to take any overflow if the bottom lock is full. As I said earlier, whilst some staircases may fill from a empty top, sufficient to pass the cill, if you start with a full lock, you will never be in a situation where your boat may be halfway in, and you then have to fill a double length, which could present a safety issue.
  12. Even if there is sufficient water in an 'empty' top lock to pass the cill, by the time you have then filled up to get out of the top lock by the same amount of water as if you had filled it to start with, so why not do it to start with and save the hassle of having to try and fill a bottom lock from the top to release a boat from the cill?
  13. The rubber drive shaft is 'housed in two metal shrouds on the gearbox and the prop shaft. The maximum misalignment is governed by the clearance of these shrouds, and 45 degrees is well out of bounds.
  14. For the odd occasion it is needed, a simple jump lead will suffice. If it needs to be done regularly, then you are better off sorting out the starting problem. I carry one in my battery box for just such an occasion.
  15. You could look for something like the leatherman, Anon, and have a 50ft boat and a small push butty to accommodate the office/music etc.
  16. With the amount of offside linear moorings on this stretch, you won't be going too fast anyway!!!
  17. I would try warming it first. If a part tin, there may have been sufficient air in there to partially cure it.
  18. Bituminous Black is NOT what you use on your hull, that is just bitumen. I have used one n the past that was made by Evo Stik, and is epoxy based with a bituminous content. These are classified as odourless and tasteless, and until a punitive testing and certification scheme was introduced a few years ago, the products were certified for use in water tanks. The standard has not changed, just the EU regulations.
  19. Remove the rust to bare metal and treat with Rustoleum or similar. Allow to dry thoroughly, then use a bituminous black paint, not bitumen. I think Black Jack is a name that I recall from a couple of years ago when I did mine. At this time of year, it is best to double or treble the dryingtimes for intermediate coats.
  20. I use Morris Multivis 15/40. It is semi synthetic, meets the manufacturers spec. and I never have to top up between oil changes. Mineral oils to the same specs are O K but avoid the cheap versions. Perkins last 'for ever' with a regular oil and filter change regime.
  21. As Dor says, squeeze the cover and it releases. Surprisingly tight, but it does come out.
  22. The 'Autherley Armada' has ventured forth, together with the 'Yellow Perils' from Gailey. Surely spring. Lifted the deckboards today to find a mouse nest in the engine compartment. Busy little devil was not there on Tuesday, but this is more of a harbinger of Autumn, but it was cold last night.
  23. Alternatively, find a suitable chimney, which sits over yourcollar, then purchase a single length of 4" stainless flue pipe, together with a male/male adaptor. Fit the adaptor to the flue pipe and secure with a couple of self tappers. Place the adapter end into the collar and you have a double skinned chimney. Just be aware that when removing, you have two parts. You can make it into a single unit by using another pair of self tappers through from the inside of the inner pipe onto the outer chimney so that they spice the inner tube from the outer, and the friction holds them in place.
  24. And I thought my BSS examiner was picky over my painted over filler cap signs!!!!
  25. Personally, I drain off and flush a couple of times every couple of years. it is amazing how much sludge comes out. It was left longer than this at one time, and to drain out both the Bowman and the block required clearing through the drainholes. If the amount of sludge does build, then obviously the cooling in those areas is compromised.
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