Ex Brummie

What is 'did is opned it closed and then returns' in your last paragraph? The only thing that should operate the flue stabiliser on the back is excess flue draught or downdraught. If the flame is steady and clean with the doors open but yellow with it closed then there is insufficient ventilation in the room.

To do the job properly, you need to calibrate the outputs from both the low and high fire from the Toby valve, using a measuring cup and stopwatch. On a boat, this sometimes needs to be 'fudged' as the flue conditions are not always ideal, and the fuel is 35 sec rather than 28 sec as domestic fuel is. In a house the problems encountered in a boat should not exist. Have you verified the integrity of the door and pot seals? Is the ignition plug and port clean and fitted snugly to eliminate air ingress from that point?

If back to back, do they share the same chimney/flue? Yellow flame means either overfuelled OR under aired. check the seals around the door and the burner pot to stove base, the lighting plug and also any flue joints. Edit to add: Have you checked the ventilation into the room? Does the flame pattern stay the same if you open doors or windows?

Channel Glaze do not list a sponge, and if you keep the drains clear, you don't need any sponge.

Aservice on any open flued gas appliance is something that should be carried out at regular intervals. The intake of dust, debris and spiders can seriously impair the combustion and produce the dreaded CO, the silent killer.

SEVEN YEARS since any service? What else can you expect.

Bubble stoves and the like can easily be flued efficiently in narrowboats with an outside insulated flue, and the ' very regular cleaning' is no more than is required than ash emptying and firebox cleaning of a solid fuel or wood burning stove. The almost hidden air holes will not block before the fumes of poor combustion will have forced the boat to be evacuated, and with continual use, it is advisable to scrape the base of the burner pot. A drip feed stove will not gum up the flue with baked on tar, and will not disfigure the paint job with staining condensation runnig down the side of the boat. It is able to be kept at a consistent temperature, and will not burn out hearths or throat plates. Bubble stoves and the like can easily be flued efficiently in narrowboats with an outside insulated flue, and the ' very regular cleaning' is no more than is required than ash emptying and firebox cleaning of a solid fuel or wood burning stove. The almost hidden air holes will not block before the fumes of poor combustion will have forced the boat to be evacuated, and with continual use, it is advisable to scrape the base of the burner pot. A drip feed stove will not gum up the flue with baked on tar, and will not disfigure the paint job with staining condensation runnig down the side of the boat. It is able to be kept at a consistent temperature, and will not burn out hearths or throat plates.

If the OP really wants to CC, then a lot of the comments will not be as dire as stated by people who consider moving for 2-3 hours every 14 days.

My Perkins 4108M is governed to 29bhp and has never come up short on a57ft boat. It is coupled to a PRM150 2:1 ratio.

Just remember, not every hire boat has any identification features. Having a mooring near to a large marina seems to bear this out; or maybe owners have very large families.

I am always concerned when I read, as stated by the OP earlier, that they have used this and that diesel treatment. The only time that I have used a diesel treatment, when the vegetable element was introduced, is the only time that I have had fuel problems with gooey deposits in the water trap and filters. Like others, I annually pump out the bottom of the tank and clean it as best I can.

The greaser will stop when you get to the point where you have applied more pressure than is able to escape from the stern tube. Sometimes you may see a small amount from the front end of the shaft, but if you lift the weed hatch, there should be some escape at the rear end.

Like I said, I couldn't be a***d to look up the regs, and have great respect for those who know chapter and verse and share it. I knew there was some quasi regulatory restriction .

There is a cut off date of the boat build which precludes the fitting of open flue gas appliances in narrowboats. I can't be a***d to check the BSS regs myself, but would suggest you do.

Given that the grid is short of capacity for charging points for motorway service stations, I dread to think of the possibility of installing points in canal locations which are often in isolated places.

Range cookers rely on the storage of latent heat. Solid fuel or oil vaporising burners are always on. Gas or oil blown burners on more recent units are still kept ticking over and the core is kept to around 150-180oC. You can put this on a timer so that it doesn't race away all night, and it will still retain some heat to speed top up in the morning. when you look at the thickness of the hotspot under the lid, you can see why it takes an hour to boil a kettle. The thermostat measures the oven temperature so the hot spot will be cooler. Most users always have a kettle on the top of the hob, transferring it to the hot spot when needed. Obviously on a boat in warm weather this permanent running can be uncomfortable. In an open farmhouse kitchen it was not so much of a problem. The new range of Aga's and the like, to adapt to modern living and levels of insulation, have elements for the core, controlable ovens and independent hobs. Unless you have a 60ft widebeam, a range cooker like this is probably not a good idea.

They will drop to the bottom of the elbow and you can insert a magnet to collect debris. For the number that are 'emptied' with a pump, how do they collect the debris?

Too late for you now, but vitreous enamelled flue would have done a smart job. It would look as good as Andrew's, but a lot less faff and hassle.

If you can struggle once to remove the drain plug, you can replace it with a black iron male elbow and then extend that with a socket and plug. Next time it will be easy.

Anti freeze in a central heating system is not as conductive as water.

If it is just a case of cleaning out the clag, then removal of the hob and burner is quite straightforward. The basic instruction should be in the owners manual. It is essential to keep the flueways clear as any restriction will limit the air intake. It will only suck in as much as it can expel, but the fuel will still be in the metered quantity and will make soot. 35 second oil (diesel) will make more soot than 28 sec (kerosene). It may be a good idea to fit a new nozzle, and pay particular attention to the flexible oil feed hose. OFTEC specify a braided hose should be replaced every 2 years at least, with longlife hoses no more than 5 years IIRC> Ideally you need at least a smoke pump to check the flue, but a pressure gauge and combustion analyser enables the job to be done properly. A vertical flue of narrowboat size is more than adequate.

Why the speculation? Let's wait and see exactly what is going to be applied. As regards caravans or motorhomes, you'd never get away for long with living on the road, and as soon as you move off, the landowner will be there with his sand out. Living in a mobile home ( nearext equivalent ot a marina mooring) incurs ground rent, council tax, often some habitable time restriction, and a lease which is restrictive for reselling and keeping after a certain age, with restriction on sales to the site owners benefit.

If you keep your eyes open for the Amazon Prime Days, or other similar offers, a bargain can be found. Like MtB, I have a selection of multimeters around the boat and home, but last year I picked up a bargain from Amazon with a Clamp Meter that was AC/DC , plus multimeter meter and non contact voltage detection for just ubder £20. It is also useful for checking Solar circuits.